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powerstroke transmission

1972 Steiger/CAT V8

My cousin and myself are working on a 2000 f250 7. 3 PS. Auto. 2wd.



The truck will start and then will not restart later. Sometimes it will run fine and sometimes it will die when put in drive. We tested the lift pump and it is putting over 100psi and good volume. The fuel filter housing is kind of dirty but the filter was recently replaced. We discovered an oily substance in the V of the block. Now it will not start completely. I was thinking the injectors or the ecm might be bad, but not sure, anyone have any ideas... truck and engine has 120k miles



Thanks

erik
 
Sounds like the cam position sensor. It is on the front of the engine. I think it takes a 10mm wrench. Will most likely need a small prybar to pop it out.



The oil in the V, may not be anything to worry about. Would check the turbo oil feed and return line in case a seal or gasket is going bad. IIRC, there is a crankcase vent you can check to see if it is leaking on or around it.
 
Last edited:
EBottema said:
My cousin and myself are working on a 2000 f250 7. 3 PS. Auto. 2wd.



The truck will start and then will not restart later. Sometimes it will run fine and sometimes it will die when put in drive. We tested the lift pump and it is putting over 100psi and good volume. The fuel filter housing is kind of dirty but the filter was recently replaced. We discovered an oily substance in the V of the block. Now it will not start completely. I was thinking the injectors or the ecm might be bad, but not sure, anyone have any ideas... truck and engine has 120k miles



Thanks

erik



Erik,



I assume by "lift pump" you mean the fuel pump??



If the tach moves when you crank it, the it's not the CPS.



I'm 99% positive you have an IPR(Injection Pressure Regulator) problem. It is what regulates the High pressure oil the the injectors use to operate. They can get "sticky" because of debris in the oil.



There are a few things to try.



1- Take the nut off the back of the IPR that holds the solenoid on and move the solenoild around a bit the reinstall the nut. Only tighten it slightly more than hand tight.



2- Pull the IPR out, take a small pick and push the valve in and out a few times. This can help un-jam it. Or you can disassemble, and clean it. Directions for that you can find HERE .



3- just replace the IPR.



I almost garuantee that is your problem ;)
 
Okay, I pulled the pressure regulator off with the solenoid and put 12v onto it and nothing happened with the IRP. Does that mean its bad?



Erik
 
Erik,



It will be literally impossible to tell by just putting 12 v to it. The IPR receives a square wave signal from the PCM and as to operate so fast that you won't be able to see or hear it operate.



Take a small pick and physically push the stem in and out a few times and then reinstall and try it. If that doesn't work, I would either dissasemble it and clean it or buy a replacement. ;)
 
Update-



Pulled the IPR out and cleaned it and reinstalled it. Now the truck runs poorly at idle and accelerates like crud. Does this mean that the IPR is probably defective? The Tach does work when cranking so the CPS seems to be working.



When voltage is put to the IPR, does it hold it shut? It doesnt matter if we see it working but we want to know if it can physically hold itself shut.



Also, ran it without the IRP harness plugged in and it stayed running, but would not restart. Is this a symptom of something? Also, never threw a code :confused:



Erik
 
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