Here I am

any problems returning my bypass filter setup to a valve cover?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

More HP, Less EGT. Here's how...

PacBrake Installation w/ATS Auto transmission

I was just gonna drill and tap one of the valve covers and return it there... I'm assuming there's no problem w/ this, but I just wanted to make certain.



Forrest
 
Can't see it would be a problem, returning a slow-rate oil stream. Guys usually return it to the filler cap, so can't see how it would be a problem. Only caution would be that any fittings installed in the V/C be sure they clear valvetrain components.



Vaughn
 
Forrest, I considered the valve cover, but wound up using the turbo return line. I cut it and spliced in a tee, used hydraulic hose and hose clamps to put everything back together with the tee in place. If I did it again, I'd weld a nipple into the return line pipe and not cut it.



A few days after I did the deed, several folks posted what a bad move it would be to mess with the return line. But I've got about 10k on it now, including a lot of high boost/egt running while pulling a 9,000 lb horse trailer from Arkansas to Montrose Co hunting this fall. No problems yet.



Guess I've jinxed it now. LOL



Good luck, RJR
 
Return it to the plastic housing that the oil fill tube attaches to. Drill and tap a hole in the side. Install fitting and attach hose. I built a small bracket that braces the line attached to timing gear cover.



You can remove the filler cap and watch the flow. Handy for determining the filter's status.



Had this setup for 2 years, No problems.
 
I dont know if the valve covers are the same on a Dodge but...

I drilled and tapped a cast aluminum valve cover on a 12v industrial engine and found that the cover is quite thin, one or two threads at most. The fitting wouldn't tighten properly and always leaked a little, I ended up glueing the fitting in to stop the leak.



Jared
 
Forrest Nearing said:
thanks for the heads up Jared... I'll figure something out! LOL!



Forrest

HERE you go... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . The Fitting is a "Swivel" Fitting that allows the cap to turn without turning the hose. Available from Amsoil Inc. Cut about 1 inch out of the plastic cap "grip", drill a hole through the cap, and you have it!



Wayne

amsoilman
 
not sure on the 24v buton the 12v there is a ridge that you can drill that is about 1/2" and you can get several threads on it that's where I did mine no leaks no problems did it on cylinder #6



-ben
 
Wayne, I've got that fitting... my oil fill cap gets so tight sometimes that I have to grab a pair of pliers to get it off, and I'd rather not have a hose or line attatched to the cap. just seems like a hassle that could be easily avoided.



Forrest
 
Forrest,



You might check with Cummins. I've seen these engines with a valve cover that has a fill cap on it. It usually is the 2nd valve cover. That would be easy to rig for an oil return.
 
Forrest Nearing said:
Wayne, I've got that fitting... my oil fill cap gets so tight sometimes that I have to grab a pair of pliers to get it off, and I'd rather not have a hose or line attatched to the cap. just seems like a hassle that could be easily avoided.



Forrest

Never had that problem! Sure is nice when it came to getting an oil sample tho.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
I don't know what the deal is w/ my oil cap... my old truck wasn't like this, and I can't get a replacement cap to save my life, so I'd rather not cut on this one...



if I snug it hard, it requires pliers to remove... if I just barely snug it finger tight, half the time a pair of pliers makes things a lot easier. I'm stumped, but not concerned... I never thought about the oil sample thing... never done one... but I could see how it'd be much easier to collect that way! :D



Forrest
 
I bought a replacement Stant cap (might be able to find the part #) that was mentioned in another thread then used the swivel fitting shown above. Figured that way my stock cap is untouched and it is great for oil sampling or to check out flow and such.
 
There are two other ways to get oil back in the engine. On the drivers side of the engine on the bottom oil pan block flange there is a plugged hole that goes directly into the oil pan. My oil blow by set up uses it with a check valve to put oil from blow by back in to the engine. It also pevents the oil pump out problem. Also Cummins has a oil filler replacement cap fitting that replaces the oil filler cap with a clamp on oil tub that screw on to where the oil filler cap goes. My blow by system uses it too. Best of all - all Cummins parts.



Here is a photo of the cap, cap on valve cover, and tube that goes into the plugged hole on the oil pan flange.



Cary :cool:
 
I tapped the valve cover, no problem. Remover the cover and locate the hole between valve springs. The thickness is enough but don't over tighten the fitting.
 
Back
Top