any tips for telling true millage on engine?

[GMichaels]

Was wondering if there are any tips on determining the true millage on the engine? I know compression test, what else without tearing down the engine.

 

["Mad Max"]

... well the old trick of being able to hide behind whether it has clicked over 100k once or twice is n/a as the speedo's count the 100's, and my engine doesn't look like it has 240k on it, or run like it either. It just keeps running the same way all day every day, so how it drives won't really tell you either. About the only thing I can say for sure is that if there is a little rust on the block where the paint has flaked off then it probably has a bunch on it (100 - 200k), but that really doesn't matter either because 100-200k is where these ole dogs just get broken in.



I wouldn't bother with a compression test either - besides do you have a gauge that'll read in the 400-500 psi range? (don't these things live up in that range???) A Cummins is either broken or it isn't, and you'll hear bad sounds if it is.



Ummm, on re-reading my reply that wasn't much help was it... ? Hmmph... . unless the speedo is gone that's actually a really good question.

- S

 

[michigandon]

The D250 donor truck that I took the engine from for my sig project supposedly had only 89,000 miles on it, and it looked to me like it had led a realtively easy life rpior to it's untimely demise (yes, I was able to see the odometer). Yet, I remember one time many, many years ago when my older brother and I were having a discussion about buying used cars, used engines, etc and he said:



"Don't think for one minute that the junkyards don't know how to roll back odometers too!".



For some reason, these words continuously haunt me even to ths day, almost 20 years later. :{

 

[1stgen4evr]

Yes there is.

And pretty reliable too but I won't post here for browsers to see. I will however, point you in the right direction. Look at things that wear that unlike the pedal pad, are not so easy to replace. The pedal pad is totally unreliable as to an indicator. Mainly because it is so easy to replace. It helps to have driven one for 400k plus miles and to have seen what wears. Any one with over 500k can give you some good pointers. This alone will not tell you whether the truck is a good buy or how many miles of service you will get. Of much greater importance is whether there has been an incident of overheat or gas in the fuel, or poor maintainence as to oil changes.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[dpuckett]

heck, it's hard to tell even if you tear it down

Guy at the local Freightliner dealer tore into his 1990 at 300K, and EVERYTHING still looked new. They just dont get used hard enough in a pickup to wear.



If it has under 400K (heck, mine is fast approaching 300K), I would have no qualms about buying it, and running it another 200-300Kmi. I have driven a couple that had passed 500, and they ran about the same as mine with 160K at the time. I had the factory hone marks in mine, after 250K of pulling hard, with the pump turned up, and hot shut downs (P. O. didnt have a pyrometer on it) burning the stock turbo. Replaced head gasket, and am running it 35K and a year later.



Now the rest of the truck... ... That depends on how well it was cared for. Not so much the drivetrain (though it isnt as tough as the SuperB), but the body and suspension. The bed on mine is falling apart on both sides now, thanks in part to not replacing shocks when needed, in bigger part to going too fast (20mph) on too rough gravel roads.



Ok, neither of us has helped in your original question, but I hope we have quieted any fears you may have had about a high mileage engine. Heck, I dont even consider 200K high mileage on the engine. Truck, yes. If it starts, runs, and doesnt smoke any unusual colors, use it. These aint D-maxes or PSDs.



Daniel

 

[Greenleaf]

A few tips;

Remove the brake pedle foot pad and look at the lower right corner. If the pad looks new it probably is. However,,,,,,,,,,,, the metal plate under would tell the story if it's been worn through/paint worn off. Get the picture?



Injectors; Paint on and around the hold-down nut.



Injection Pump; painted same as the engine.



Turbo; painted same as the engine



Overhead valve adjustment; paint on and surrounding the valve cover's rubber gasket.



Condition of the drivers seat fabric. Condition of the cruise control buttons. (in particular, the writing on the button) @ 175K the writing will be difficult for an old timer to read, right PB?



Look for objects the PO would have removed from the engine. Things that can give you a clue; the factory hose clamps replaced infavor of worm gear clamps. The plastic ball joints on the throttle rod, will still be inplace on a low(er) mileage engine. The engines CPL tag removed.



Check out the truck's door hinges.



I have been burned while purchasing a used truck while I graduated from school. Let my feelings take over where reality should have stepped in. I was burned BAD!!!!!!



GL

 

[RTillery]

I think more important than mileage on an engine is how it is maintained. I have been in the engine rebuilding industry for over 30 years and I have seen engines completely shot in 30K miles and engines that were still in excellent condition with 200K on them. The difference is how they were maintained. Stop and go driving that does not bring an engine up to operating temperature combined with infrequent oil changes will allow moisture to accumulate inside the motor and all kinds of bad things happen and progress rapidly. If you could pull off a valve cover it would tell volumes. If the sheet metal and head surface is clean you can probably expect significantly more life out of her if she is running well now. If, however, you see sludge buildup or any discoloration from heat, or witiness any rust anywhere, you are asking for trouble. Cast iron engines are not as suseptible to coolant problems as aluminum engines, but it is another place to look. If the cooling system and water jackets are rust free and clean, that is another good indicator. Engines with aluminum components must have their coolant changed regularly or erosion will surely progress rapidly. Cavitation can occur in diesels around the cylinders but generally is not a problem in our Cummins. Regular oil and coolant changes are the best insurance you can buy for a long trouble free life in an internal combustion engine. Good luck.

 

[dpuckett]

Amen to that, RTillery. And you have to consider that in this generation, if an engine is low mileage, it has been sitting a good deal- that can be just as hard on it as getting run hard can be, if not harder.



-DP

 

[GMichaels]

engine

One of the reasons I asked is due to a dodge 350 truck I had purchased about 6 months ago.



On start up it smokes and is missing on one cylinder, when warm most of the smoke disappears and the miss gets better but still can notice it around 1500 rpm.



I asked about this 6 months ago and the conclusion was injectors. I posted in the classifieds for stock injectors used, best price was about 170. 00 which is to much to find out if its just the injectors.



I had to replace a crank in a 276d engine (backhoe diesel engine) and noticed on one of the cylinders air was going by the rings. well didn't have money for that problem. after it was back in the machine i noticed it smoked and missed just like my dodge engine does now. I did replace all the injectors on that 276d engine which made no difference, but thats back when I was making some money.



I guess I feel the engine might be worn (275k) and don't want to waste money on injectors if it won't solve the problem.



Guess I am getting lazy, will pull the injectors and do a compression test and leak test and hope it is just an injector problem.

 

[JLEONARD]

asked about this 6 months ago and the conclusion was injectors

Easy to isolate.

At start-up, find the non firing cylinder either by loosening the injector line nut one at a time and listen for the engine rpm to change, OR use a non contact heat gun and find the cold cylinder.

Then swap out that injector and go thru the process again.

If same cylinder, then perhaps scored cylinder walls, stuck/broken rings, whatever. Pull the head and take a peek.

If it follows the injector, then you need to buy a set of new PODs.

Hope this helps.

Jay

 

[dpuckett]

You can also remove the injectors and get them pop tested for pressure and spray pattern. Most Case shops, fuel injection shops, and some others can pop test them. You will have to get new washers (I have some of the . 060" and . 093" washers I'll sell reasonable if you cant find any locally) to reinstall the injectors, but at least you will know where you are with them, and whether to move on from there or get new PODs, EDMs, etc. Oo. I will say if you need one new tip, you need six new tips. A Bosch shop should clean/ recalibrate them for around $20ea; new tips for under $40ea.



Try some injector cleaner in the tank, if you havent already (and pardon me if I already suggested it)



I seriously doubt, unless the engine was seriously abused/ neglected, that the engine is worn. I had hone marks in my cylinders 30K ago, at 255K. Fuel system components are a different story.



Daniel

 

[1stgen4evr]

Mileage/ bad cylinder/ early demise

As many can attest, these engines are good for well over 500k miles. (I think Jay can set you up for the Oily Rag Award if you have past 500k). That said, there are plenty that can tell you of some incident that caused early demise. I suspect you may be dealing with a more serious problem than whether the odometer is correct. Why does this happen? There are many reasons, but more often than not it is a fault with an injector which itself has multiple origins. Of course, once done, whatever happened will have to be fixed completely for continued service.



Eliminate the injectors as a problem and proceed from there. Keep us informed.



James