2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Any trimed fenders out there?

[Texis]

Just changed my wheels to an aftermarket aluminum. Put the 305s on and it's rubbing in the back of the fender well at full tilt. Anyone else have this issue and solved it with a saw zall?? Pics would be handy.



Thanks

 

[JR]

A leveling kit would solve your problems without cutting your fenders up. Either +2" coils or a set of spacers.

 

[AEdelheit]

Im guessing your running a 4. 5" back space wheel, if thats the case a leveling kit wont help at all, trimming fenders like your thinking will work or longer control arms

 

[JR]

I mis read the post the first time, somehow missed the aftermarket 17 part but noticed the GenIII wheels in your sig which is what I thought you were dealing with. With the back spacing of the Gen III and IV wheels you can run 305s on the 2nd gens with minimal to no rub at full lock with a 2 to 2 and a half inch levelling kit in the front. Your aftermarket wheels must not have the same backspacing as your GenIII wheels.

 

[AEdelheit]

I saw the gen 3 wheels too but assumed if they are rubbing that bad there may be different wheels on there

 

[Texis]

Sorry guys, the GEN 3 wheels are currently mounted on the 1 ton jeep project. I needed to go back with the Maxxis 305s for the upcoming hunting season. The wheels causing the rubbing are NASCAR aluminum wheels, I would assume 4. 5" back spacing, haven't measured them. But they stick out a good 1" farther than the GEN 3s.

I spoke with Top Gunz last week about longer control arms. I had heard you could go . 5" longer and increase tire clearance. They said no, unless I was going to lift the truck... which I do not want to do. I would prefer to trim a bit vs lifting the truck. I don't care to lift the vehicle, I have owned a few. The jeep project has a lift, but I don't expect to drive it down the highway very often.

Cutting a plastic insert doesn't bother me too much, that's what is making the contact. So, anyone out there trimmed their fenders to make a little more room?

 

[HHhuntitall]

Just pull the whole plastic fender liner out. Looks cleaner than cutting the plastic, IMO. Then you can go to cutting the fenders... ... And that will only fit about a 37 until you go to a 6"+ lift. When cutting the fender, you can clear the 37s, depending on wheel, by cutting the fender and just a small part of the cab where the spot welding is.



Here's a pic a truck I built a few back. The fenderwells are painted under the liner from the factory... ...

 

[HHhuntitall]

Not sure why they're upside down..... WTH? They weren't like that when I uploaded them... .

Anyway, you can cut the fender, and only cut the lower part of the seam where the cab is welded together, so it won't break apart from flex. The fender is not attached at the lower point anymore, but it clears 38x11. 00x16 Boggers until you compress the bumpstops and turn too far, using factory steel wheels.

Then, we "modified" the fender with a body working tool, about 3 lb works good, and fold the seam over to keep it from cutting the tire during compression.

 

[Bob4x4]

The next issue after cutting the fender is speeding up the rust process. That may or may not bother you

 

[JR]

Mr. H, those 1500 emblems are SEVERELY defacing the value of them 8 lug axles



:-laf:-laf:-laf

 

[Texis]

Thanks for the pics, gives me an idea of what is under the plastic. My locking hub set up is a contributor to the rub (my favorite addition to the truck). They push the front track width out to 1. 5"-2" wider.

I think the only issue I have is the seam. This is the only location I am seeing the rubbing, but I will need to remove the plastic inner fender to be certain. Maybe I can bend the seam over, flatten it out and add rattle can undercoating into the metal inner fender.

BTW that must be a 1500 with 2500 axles? as I noticed the control arm locations look different than mine. Nice addition

 

[Texis]

The only spot rubbing is indicated by the arrow, it's not severe. . just rubbing the plastic.
#ad

 

[JR]

The only spot rubbing is indicated by the arrow, it's not severe. . just rubbing the plastic.

Just run her through a field full tilt, anything in the way will rearrange itself in short order :-laf



Just be careful you don't catch a fender while turning with the suspension compressed. Personally if I were going to run that size of a tire I would at least put a levelling kit on the front end, it will buy you a little space. I know you said your not into lifting it, but all a levelling kit will do is bring the front end up and get rid of the raked stance they have from the factory. I can't see what kind of bumper you've got on there, but if it is heavy it will have the suspension compressed that much more.

 

[Texis]

I have always heard guys talking about "leveling"... but truth is my truck is VERY level, it never had a nose-down rake. If I added lift to the front, I would have to add to the rear. Maybe it came with stiffer front spring, dunno? The front bumper is a Ranch Hand, i. e. "heavy" but it still doesn't pull the front end down. I would assume it would be "nose high" without the Ranch hand.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Mr. H, those 1500 emblems are SEVERELY defacing the value of them 8 lug axles



:-laf:-laf:-laf

Yeah, but it reduces the overall weight of the truck by close to 1,000 lbs... . Add that and the Boggers it used to have on it, and the fact I only had $2400 in it, mostly in tires, and it makes for a nice budget wheelin' truck. I don't own it anymore, it's just sitting here for a place for it sit. Not exactly a fuel efficient daily driver... . Oh, and that fender is the only one that has any badging left, so it's closer in average to a 3/4 ton than a 5/8 ton... .

The next issue after cutting the fender is speeding up the rust process. That may or may not bother you

Rust isn't an issue in this area, but in some it would be, and in that instance, I'd suggest some galvanizing or rust convertor type primer inside the fender where it's been cut. Those haven't even been painted in the last 7 years, but there is very little rust, despite the weekly mud runs it used to get!!



As far as a lift goes, I think the lower the better, and the bigger tire the better. That's confusing to some, but I like my center of gravity as low as possible to stay right side up. The differentials are your biggest drag, so the bigger tire, the more clearance you have. I've used adjustable track bars, either ones I've made or aftermarket. The ones in those pics are of a Fab-Tech 6" lift I got off a wrecked truck for scrap iron price in a bone yard. The upper arms are attached on the rear to the frame where the lower arms used to attach, and the lower arms are anchored to a bolt on mount that bolts through the transmission crossmember back there. IT's a decent lift, and definitely worth the $150 I gave for it. There were taller coils and shocks, too, with complete leaf springs in the rear. Did I mention the RockRam AGR steering box and hydraulic cylinder that I got with it? Don't hate me... . But back to the adjustable track bars. 1/2 inch may be the max you gain with the longer arms. When the axle bottoms out, it will hit the tracking bar on the diff cover, breaking or bending it... . or breaking the track bar anchor off the frame. It has to be moved forward, and then you can gain around an inch with the adjustable arms, then you lose room for the steering rods, depending on if you have the upgraded crossbar or the smaller Y setup..... When you remove the fender liner, you gain probably 1/2 to 3/4 inch between it and the fender seam/cab bolt. Sitting at stock height, 35s are about all the tire you can get, maybe a little bigger. Add 2" and you can squeeze in a 37, depending on your wheel. Move that axle forward a little and trim the fender... .



Your hubs sit out 1. 5"?!? That's pretty drastic a change, IMO. I use the Spyntec axle hubs and they move out about 1/4"... . Oh, and in cutting the plastic liner, you'll get some real big noise when it finally does catch during compression or when backing up... . It will eventually wear through and start catching anyway, eventually jerking the whole thing out anyway... . ask me how I know. . :-laf

 

[Texis]

Your hubs sit out 1. 5"?!?

That is a combined total of both sides, but the addition of the lock/free hub kits definitely changes the track width. But I would do it again in a heart beat. Totally changed the vehicle for the better. Biggest difference was at highway speed, no vibration at all from spinning the front drive shaft, drives like a 2wd truck and 4wd works when you need it. Down side is steeping out of the truck into the mud to engage the hubs like it's 1972 lol.

 

[HHhuntitall]

OH, I definitely agree on locking hubs. I've got Dynatrac's on my '97 and '03. The last two sets I've installed, though, have been from Spyntec. They do a much better job at keeping the ABS sensor hidden on later models, and they use a higher quality steel, IMO. In fact, my '03 had a pinion seal leak, but putting the hubs on made it quit leaking. ... and no, it's still in there, but it doesn't leak... . The cheaper Yukon kits, I've seen problems with the outer hub stripping the splines if you use it hard, the Dynatrac is too expensive, and if you don't use the expensive hubs, the cheaper locking hubs are prone to drop a retaining ring, which keeps it from locking in as it should. The Spyntec's have been problem free, so far. I put a set on Dad's Jeep, and he hasn't torn them up, yet, so that means they're pretty tough. He tweaked the axle tube at 13k miles... drove a little sideways. It got a Dynatrac front tube, and then the guys at Spyntec custom made me some HUGE front locking hubs..... That's what I'm talking about!!!

HEY!! 1972?!?!? Nooooooo, 1993!! The last of the "real" trucks... ... .

 

[dknoch]

I have a set of dt profab +1/2" control arms on the front of mine with a 2 inch lift and adjustable track bar. I don't see any reason the arms alone would mess anything up. Not much different than my setup with a heavy bumper or plow weighing back down.

 

[Texis]

I wanted to go with a set of +. 5" arms. The guys at Top Gunz talked me out of it (and themselves out of a sale). They said it could cause a vibration in the front end, unless I was lifting the truck. I have to admit that really didn't make much sense to me. . buy hey, if they were willing to forego a sale over it, I listened to them.

On the hubs, mine are from that guy in Utah (DLUX). They are basically trimmed Dana 70 stub shafts, Dana 60 hubs and a custom drilled flange bolt pattern on a Dana 60 Ford spindle. Zero complaints at 70K on them. I felt like it was fair at $1200. He has basically mixed-and-matched OEM Dana stuff. Came with all Timken bearings. I would do business with him again.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I don't know how . 5" would affect it to cause a vibration... Now, moving it an inch, you can get spring bind and other problems, seeing as how the shock and springs are no longer directly inline with their pads, top and bottom.....