Competition Anybody snapped 2WD output shaft at the line?

[Reb.B]

Finally figured out all of my starting line problems and was spooled up at the line and Snap! Haven't heard of any 2wd outputs brakings just curious.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I do know Fletcher hasn't had any issues with his. Were you using N2O on the line? That's the only way I heard of them breaking.



Jim

 

[WUnderwood]

probably a dumb question-was it billet?

 

[Bob Wagner]

was smarty loaded?

 

[Trashdawg]

Not yet, 20 psi launch w/ slicks

 

[gitchesum]

I didn't, but MDW did. Twisted the crap out of a billet input shaft too.

 

[Reb.B]

well, to answer some questions, ..... i did use NOS, but i did because i had to before, but i don't think i need to any more. The shaft is not Billet, and i didn't think anybody made billet 2WD out put shafts. It snaped right were the splines meet the shaft. I do have slicks and lots of HP and the truck is 6,900 lbs. As for the smarty, this was really crazy. I have never, (or at least i thought) had problem with torque management, but i went to a loose converter and T/M was killing me. After 2K the power would come off with BDDL and also smarty on level 7. I like the smarty because of extra fueling. But anyways, i put the BDDL and put in extra low end with no more T/M and it had power like never before and then snap! I thougt the smarty would get rid of T/M. What i might try later is level 9 or start using my BD rad box and the Smarty at the same time. lots of questions i need to figure out. I'm not too stressed over the shaft. Its fixed, took me all of one hour, but i am planning on changing the O/D section to a 4X4 and using a billet shaft and then sticking two US gear O/D's after the trans. They are already mated together, the only thing i'm worried about is if the US gear has strong enough shafts.

 

[moremph]

I have heard us gear is only good to 1200# tq and it does not like being abused. Seen one break on a 350 hp truck, truck pulling.

 

[Fletcher]

Finally figured out all of my starting line problems and was spooled up at the line and Snap! Haven't heard of any 2wd outputs brakings just curious.

I have a loose converter “I beat my transmission until it bags me to kill it” and run around a 1. 60-7 60fts 20lbs. However, I never ran a stock trans. .

At the start of my 2wd project one of the first component up-grades I implemented was a SUNCOAST transmission (thanks Garmon for the referral) I haven’t had any trans problems….

(Knock on wood) Oo.

 

[Reb.B]

so fletcher, your Suncoast has a billet output?

 

[Fletcher]

Yo!

so fletcher, your Suncoast has a billet output?

Yes, It does have an upgraded outpt.

 

[Reb.B]

my ***! sun coast does not make a billet output for 2WD. (I just called Joe and asked, ... i wanted to make posative. ) I'll stick that suncoast in my truck (with some real power and 7000 lbs) and it will snap too. The next weak link is the output. Plain and simple, and if your trans (or anybody else's) has a stock output, then its gonna snap.

 

[Fletcher]

my ***! sun coast does not make a billet output for 2WD. (I just called Joe and asked, ... i wanted to make posative. ) I'll stick that suncoast in my truck (with some real power and 7000 lbs) and it will snap too. The next weak link is the output. Plain and simple, and if your trans (or anybody else's) has a stock output, then its gonna snap.

"Upgraded" :-laf... ... . Oh, BTW; you run a bottle ???

 

[Graphic man]

I know of a guy on here running 500hp 2WD, 10psi launches with BIG slicks and has never had any issues..... low 13sec passes. but thats not to say it will never happen.





Scott

 

[Reb.B]

almost a grand at the wheels now and Yes i run NOS and i probably wouldn't have happened with out NOS. "upgraded" lol. well i was thinking about that. This shaft here twisted right were the splines meet the shaft.

 

[torkin]

2wd OUTPUT

To my knowledge there is not a "billet" 2wd output shaft available.

Unfortunately the lack of demand dictates it's low status on the list.

However: Normally the shaft does not go from 100% integrity to breakage in one instant. Every time large amounts of torque is applied to the shaft it deflects (twist) a small amount in degrees. After the initial shock the shaft attempts to return to its original state, (memory) but it never quite makes it. Everytime it deflects it starts from the position that it returned to on the last hit.

Eventually it finds the straw that breaks the camels back or the point of no return.



The remedy at present is to start with a "new" shaft that has never been stressed. Cryo helps some, but in my experience even then you start with a "new" shaft. ("new" means never been in a trans period-straight from Dodge)

Until a superior shaft is available, this may be one of those parts you replace on a periodical basis. I'm sure everyone would like to have an "indestructible part, that lasts forever. I don't believe that exist. When you are dealing with outrageous torque and big weights you will find that there are certain parts that require systematic attention. Example: Pro-Mods usually down the clutch between every round, that's the only way to stay on top. Diesel trucks in competition are not exempt.

Smoop

 

[crawler]

A cryo new shaft will hold quite a bit more than a stock shaft.



But, on the subject of billet output for a 2wd. There was a person making them a while back. I know because I paid for the first 12. That was the minimum he would make and give enough break on the price to make it remotely reasonable.



The original 12 are long since sold, as there are a few people that have broke stock outputs. However, if you get your tune up right then you probably won't have this problem on your truck.



Also are you running slicks or drag radials, and what times at what speed are you running.



A dead hook on a drag radial is harder on parts than a dead hook on a slick.



The slick will absorb a lot of shock (wrinkles the sidewall) that the drivetrain would otherwise have to absorb. A Drag radial transmits more shock to the drivetrain components.



Another small tip. A small amount of tire slip is not always a bad thing.

 

[crawler]

Rather than edit my last post I'll add this here.



I know that a 3rd gen requires a 17" wheel to clear the caliper, however there are a couple of different ways to put a 16" (or even a 15" with some more fab work) wheel on a 3rd gen.



That is why I asked about the slicks/drag radials.



In a 17" your very limited on choices hence the question.





~Wes~

 

[JasonCzerak]

Rather than edit my last post I'll add this here.



I know that a 3rd gen requires a 17" wheel to clear the caliper, however there are a couple of different ways to put a 16" (or even a 15" with some more fab work) wheel on a 3rd gen.



That is why I asked about the slicks/drag radials.



In a 17" your very limited on choices hence the question.





~Wes~

On the fronts you need a 17" rim.



I"m sure you can put a 16 or maybe a 15 on the rear. Infact Mr revgain has a smaller tire on the rear for the track. Not sure if it's a smaller rim, need to look up that thread, some one posted specs on the wheels.

 

[Reb.B]

I run a 12 inch slick and its on a 16" wheel, but i have a 5/16 inch spacer and i ground down the caliple a bit. When i broke intermediate shafts and this output, its always been while staging. So as long as you have good brakes, it gonna brake regardless of what tire you have. Thanks for the good info guys. I think in the near future we will be needing billet outputs to put heavy trucks down the track faster. Only problem is finding the next weak link after the 2wd output shaft.