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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Anyone bomb their block heater plug?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Leaky Transmission

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Twins Question

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Looking for suggestions/ideas to make plugging in easier/nicer looking. Not really interested in spending $140 for that fancy automatic plug kicker thingy. Thinking more along the lines of a female connector, panel mounted, somewhere in the bumper openings... or whatever else you guys have come up with. I don't like leaving my plug dangling out in front of the headlight:D
 
I put a big black rubber one on when the stock one shorted out and burnt my hand :rolleyes: I think I am going to add bombed block heater plug to my sig :p In all seriousness, wouldn't having a female connection on your truck be really dangerous in the sense that you would have to have a double male ended plug, meaning you would risk grabbing the business end of 120V every time you plug it in? :eek:
 
Gee... ya leave out one little word like "receptacle"... female connector RECEPTACLE ;)



CoalSmoke... thank you for catching that.



Bmoeller is on the right track... and even posted a pic of the above mentioned RECEPTACLE:D



That's basically what I'm looking for but didn't realize they would be readily availabe at big truck shop... I'll check into it.



Thanks,

Jim
 
After I put my DOR bumper on my plug was hard to get to so I fixed it. I went to an electrical supply house picked up some parts made by Leviton from their Wetguard line. Below is a link to the parts I used.

http://www.leviton.com/pdfs/wetguard/Wetguard_Catalog.pdf



I think I used a 15 amp non-locking female in their wetgaurd box box and then got the matching male plug to put on the end of my extension cord. All I had to do was cut the plug off the heater cord and attach the new female one and do the same on my extension cord. I mounted the box next to the upright on my DOR bumper. The box is watertight and so is the plug combo. They are rated for submersion not that you need that but my stock setup sometimes would trip the breaker due to melting snow or rain. It has not tripped since I did this mod and I don't have to dig for the plug nor do I have to try and get the snow/ice or water dried off of it before I plug in. Just flip open the self closing cover for the box and plug it in. The box is bright yellow(I think they have the box in black but I couldn't find one) but I just painted the outside of it with some black liquid rubber I had in the garage and it still looks great after 2 years. The only drawback to this system is with the female plug in the box you have to have an extension cord with two male ends which at home is no big deal but if going somewhere else and need to plug in better make sure and take your extension cord with you.



After looking at the opening page of that PDF link above the box shown is the one I used with a female recepticle inside it and the bottom right of that picture has a male plug that I used except non-locking.
 
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They make the right parts

You need a something called a flanged inlet. This is the safest and correct method for converting your dangling plug into a solidly mounted receptacle. A standard cord will be used not some homemade dangerous double ended nightmare.

check out Grainger or any electrical supply house.



Just to get you started Grainger part #3D235, still need a box but that is the easy part. If you are electrically challenged PM me and I can go into detail.



Big rig places sell kits like posted above to do the same thing just a little more pricey. :)
 
Now we're getting somewhere. These last two are what I was thinking about... now I just gotta figure out how to mount it all up. Doing the electrical part ain't no big deal... I gots plenty of 'lectrical tape :D
 
Plug

I went to a internatial dealer and found a crome plug for 25. 00. I cut the end of the stock plug off and cut a hole in the bumper.
 
Mine is in the same location as Brand X. I picked mine up at the local Peterbilt Dealer. I was at first going to get the unit that was pictured above that connects from the block out to the new receptacle, but that was very expensive. Instead I purchased the receptacle, receptacle boot, cover and gasket for about $25. I used a heavy duty 12 guage extension cord connected to the existing plug and ran it over to the driver's side where it was wired into the new receptacle. I installed a piece of stainless steel sheet metal as a backing plate on the back of the plastic part of the bumper for support. It has been installed for almost 3 years with no problems.



Definately one of the best Bomb's.



If you have any questions about the install let me know.
 
Great look Brand X... I did something similar. Bought a rubberized male, recessed receptacle from Bass Pro Shops (the kind you would use on a bass boat for charging batteries) for about $12. Used an electricians hole punch for conduit holes and put mine right in the middle of the front bumper... looks like a belly button. No more messing with cords...
 
Update... well not really... I guess I'd have to actually get something done for this to be an update:)



I really just haven't made up my mind yet which direction to go. I like the idea of having a standard 110v plug, but I don't like the idea of drilling a hole that large in the bumper. I prefer more of a "stealth" install but I don't see a way to do that with a standard 110v connection.



I have considered using those connectors that service vehicles use for jumper cables. I think there is enough room in the gap between the bottom of the grill and the top of the bumper cover. But then I'd always have to carry an adapter or special extension cord wherever I traveled. Which really ain't no big deal 'cuz I never go anywhere:(



Reckon that was a long winded way of saying "thanks for the ideas". I'll post back with my final results... if'n I ever get to it.



Jim
 
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