Anyone machine their H2 wheels to be hub-centric?

[JCleary]

I did a bunch of searching, but with no answers.



I just traded my Triple Dog for a set of nice H2 take-offs with almost new rubber and a brand new 315 as a spare. I need to machine the wheels (obviously).



Anyway, I know I can do it with a Hole Hawg and hole saw, but it will then be lug-centric. I'll do it that way if it's my only choice.



Has anyone machined them to be hub-centric like the OEM wheels?



What are the specs?



Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[evldsl]

I did a bunch of searching, but with no answers.



I just traded my Triple Dog for a set of nice H2 take-offs with almost new rubber and a brand new 315 as a spare. I need to machine the wheels (obviously).



Anyway, I know I can do it with a Hole Hawg and hole saw, but it will then be lug-centric. I'll do it that way if it's my only choice.



Has anyone machined them to be hub-centric like the OEM wheels?



What are the specs?



Thanks in advance for your advice.

I thought you were geting rid of your truck?

 

[Bertram65]

The factory wheels are lug centric on the SRW trucks, hub centric on the DRW trucks.

 

[milehigh.o.]

goto this link and it will explain everything you need to know.



http://www.getdieselpower.com/my04dodge1/

 

[JCleary]

I thought you were geting rid of your truck?

I was...



But I had a hard time justifying the payments. I said "what the heck" and let the 0% financing lapse.



I just picked up a Suzuki DRZ400SM to play with instead. What a great bike!



Plus I can now do injectors and a CP3 and see how far I can go on diesel only w/o doing a cam or head work. It never ends.

 

[JCleary]

The factory wheels are lug centric on the SRW trucks, hub centric on the DRW trucks.

I thought it was the other way around...



One of Kore's selling points for their Weld Cheyenne 8's was that they're hub-centric and the proper offset/backspacing

 

[JCleary]

goto this link and it will explain everything you need to know.



http://www.getdieselpower.com/my04dodge1/

Thank you!

 

[JeepinDoug]

They are hub centric. I machined mine at my shop in Redwood city, 2 hours tops on time.

Tires need to be removed. I indicate the existing hub refferance diameter within . 002" to ensure concentricity.

If you're interested, PM or email me for a price.

Doug

-- email address removed --

 

[grfraz]

I have a set of H2 wheels that has already been machined, check out the classifieds. or pm me.

 

[TowRig]

Another resource: http://towrig.com/hummerh2wheelupgrade.shtml

 

[Bertram65]

I thought it was the other way around...



One of Kore's selling points for their Weld Cheyenne 8's was that they're hub-centric and the proper offset/backspacing

All you have to do is look at the lug nuts, while the SRW wheels are a close fit over the hubs they are centered by the lugs, this is a fact. The other thing to remember is the wheel is held in place by the clamping force of the lugs not the centering mechanism be it lugs or the hub.

 

[betterthanstock]

The other thing to remember is the wheel is held in place by the clamping force of the lugs not the centering mechanism be it lugs or the hub.

If it has conical nuts, it's lugcentric. If it has flat nuts, like some aluminum wheels, it's hub centric, unless the holes are real tight around the studs.



Which is it? Look at the wheels. I don't know the H2 wheels, but if they have flat nuts, measure hole ID, and stud OD and see if you need to make it hubcentric. Otherwise you will never get them to stay balanced. And if you make them lugcentric, make sure the tire shop uses a lug adapter, not a hub adapter when balancing.



Of course, once tighened, the clamping force holds it, either way.

 

[JCleary]

If it has conical nuts, it's lugcentric. If it has flat nuts, like some aluminum wheels, it's hub centric, unless the holes are real tight around the studs.



Which is it? Look at the wheels. I don't know the H2 wheels, but if they have flat nuts, measure hole ID, and stud OD and see if you need to make it hubcentric. Otherwise you will never get them to stay balanced. And if you make them lugcentric, make sure the tire shop uses a lug adapter, not a hub adapter when balancing.



Of course, once tighened, the clamping force holds it, either way.

I had that problem with a $4000 set of 20's when they first came out. I had a 2001 Land Cruiser, and wanted some bling. Hooked it up with some 20's, and they never balanced right. The shop finally agreed to take them back, but I lost $500 because of tire wear.



I believe the factory lugs were flat, but the ones that came with the 20's were conical. At any rate, it didn't work. I do not want to make the same mistake with my H2 wheels.