2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Anyone relplaced their fuse (junction) block?

[Rob Thomas]

I am have Major problems with my junction block in the cab, the heated seats are inop, and now the power windows, both because the junction block has internal connection issues. Also, I hm experiencing a over-night battery drain (not sure if it is related to the block as of yet).



I know of at least one other person who has this same problem with the junction block, and it is also an '01.



Has anyone else has this problem?



I assume the dash will have to be removed to replace the block, since DC was nice enough to bury the thing so no one would steal it.







Rob



'01 2500 QC LB ETH/DEE not-so loaded lately---

 

[Sticks]

I've never done it, but it seems that you should be able to replace it with out having to pull the dash. The knee bolster and the side plate where the panel cover is. You may have to be a bit of a contortionist to get some of it disconnected but doable.



Before you replace it, try making sure all the connections (wire harness to harness) are tight, and look in each and every one of the fuse slots to see if one or more of the tabs have been pushed back in. It might be as simple as pushing them back into position from the back.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Thanks, but after more checking today, I realize it will have to be replaced. Pressing to the left on the window breaker, the power door locks start to work, removing the marker light fuse and they still work, while the fuse is in my hand. It all started when I traced the heated seat problem to the block, at first if I pressed the breaker in one direction they would work, but not anymore. All the contacts to where the fuses/breakers/relay touch are fine, I'm led to believe the problem is internal.



Does anyone have a small kid they'd be willing to rent out? It's going to be a tight squeeze to get all the connectors off the back of the block.





Rob

 

[Sticks]

Go buy a ferret.

 

[Rob Thomas]

LOL



Actually, I was just reading the manual, it seems I don't have to remove the dash at all, just a few other items, so I guess this won't be to bad after all. I just hope it solves my battery troubles.

 

[Cooker]

I'm glad you got it figured out. Sometimes these problems can really be a huge PIA, the tracking it down part I mean as I think the replacement part will still be a PIA.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Thank gawd no dash out! Well Rob glad ya found it (I think)

 

[Rob Thomas]

Well, today I replaced the fuse block, wasn't as bad as I first thought, maybe an hour to replace.



Everything is working now, heated seats, power door locks, and with any luck my battery drain issue is solved.



The wierd thing is, that when I disassembled the old block, nothing looked broke, or wrong, nothing melted, nothing visually caught my eye.



If anyone's interested, I'll post some pics of the dismantled block, it wasn't exactly what I expected to see inside. It constists of 5 panels, all stainless steel, no plastic, no small parts.



Rob

 

[Sticks]

It's so nice when the project turns out to be eaiser than you work it up to be.



Yesterday I assisted in replacing a clutch on an ETH/DEE. I've never done a clutch before, and was suprised at how easy it was.



Good to hear that solved your problems.

 

[Cooker]

An hour for R+R is not too bad. I would have imagined it to be a little more time consuming than that. Certainly that is an odd reapir that we don't hear of too many people having to make. I'm glad you were able to figure out the problem because that is one of the last places I probably would have checked.

 

[npieske]

Did you ever take photos and post them? I am having issues with fuse terminals getting cooked. Well, actually just one. The HVAC fan terminal. I am looking at replacing the entire board there by the driver door. I also thought about removing it and possibly repairing the terminal that is cooking? The factory fuse blocks seem to be in the $250-300 range...