Anyone running a HF Ham Radio in a Gen4 diesel?

[JohnBiccum]

Would love to compare notes on RF noise sources, bonding the body panels to eliminate RF noise etc.
Also love to hear about experiences running 12 ga. power leads thru the firewall (or underneath?).

A friend has a newer Ford 150 with an underseat location pre-wired for a transceiver, part of Ford's attempts at targeting the government market. Do we have anything like that in the Gen 4?

 

[lpennock]

I ran 10Ga through the firewall. If you have a auto, the hole for the clutch stuff is a great place to use to run stuff through the firewall. On my 18 it had a hard plastic cap that I drilled the rivets out, removed and replaced with a rubber grommet. Currently have 1xRG58, edge EAS cable, 10Ga Zip cord, 16 Ga Driving light trigger and switched leads going through it.

 

[slowmover]

You may already know all this, but others might like the perspective:

www.k0bg.com

The bible for mobile install. Have seen Qs asked on QRZ about Dodge gas & diesel. The latest trucks of any brand are problems.

So far as power, use the
MARINCO 3% Voltage Drop Chart.

Circuit length is total of POS + NEG.

If I’m going to run an amp with potential maximum 30A draw (at 20’) I’m already at 6-AWG. Given that routing could be longer, 4-AWG isn’t out of the running. (Applegate shows reasoning here as elsewhere)

Flame-resistant split-loom cover, cushioned Adel clamps, etc; thus best quality supply (ANCOR WIRING; all components); $$ add up in a hurry.

Even if I never use — much less install — an amplifier where the gear doesn’t total as high a draw, it might someday. I don’t want to do it twice.

Build it as a removable harness. Lay out the run with rope or similar before ordering! Observe the routing cautions.

BREEDLOVE MACHINE for antenna mounts.

Applegate's site will walk you through everything. I recommend using his topic headings for your lists to ease re-reads. He posts on QRZ.

As example:

My ‘04 555 is in the stage of RF Bonding. Bought a roll of woven tinned copper + tinned lugs + hydraulic crimper + double-star washers, etc. There’s one helluva lot of possible “bonds”. Have to first survey + clean, etc. (List locations; observe width or doubling necessary).

The actual start was the replacement (and additions) to DC grounds. This is the obvious time to go through review of upgrades to BATT system.

Point is that — expensive as RF Bond supply + new tools may be, it’s not even close to buying different screwdriver antennas, remote tuners, etc.

Can one do “too much”? That’s my plan. Removing RF Bonds easier than adding them (they’ll go into supply box for next vehicle). May not apply. But easily remedied if it does.

This job of bonding gave my truck its not-original name, but “works” for a slow diesel with The Mans’ Transmission (ever gear, ever time): Old Lightning.

RF Bonding ups the potential as a lightning rod once antenna installed. Puttin’ some fire in the wire (has several meanings).

Every stage changes an aspect of the truck.

The stages of Radio Installation are separate, therefore. Have beginnings & endings to check, test, and re-check. (Back into it). Know that it’s done.

When I get to the antenna mount, I’d like for its’ problems to stand out as separate. (Wish me luck, I’ll do same for you).

This Dodge one helluva lot easier than the plastic Peterbilt that’s a similar project underway.

A “solution” I’ve used with other big trucks is one I now incorporate a elsewhere: power gets thru sheet panels with marine cable glands. Grommets aren’t bad . . just not as good, IMO. Secure affixment of power cabling is a little easier. I use an appropriate-sized chassis punch to make LOCATION optimum.

Good luck. Applegates’ site is a godsend for mobile installation. Reading enough for several nights . . the first time. (Ha!).

.

 

[The patriot]

I run a marine HF rig, and it actually came to me with the RF chokes on it. Used.
de-k2eds
73

 

[2013megacab]

I have an Icom 706 MkII (not G), and a Kenwood DM-710. I have the Megacab with the storage areas in the rear behind the seats. I put the radio bodies in there and ran remote control cables to the front under the carpet and through the console. I ran 12V power underneath and into the storage area through an existing grommet where I also brought in the antenna leads.

I started a bonding exercise but never completed it. I have really bad injector noise sometimes, but not always. It appears to be related to the ground characteristics under the truck, i.e. concrete with reinforcing mesh is different from gravel is different from dirt. I haven't fully bought in to K0BG's common mode explanation. For HF I use a Carolina Tarheel antenna. The injector noise goes away if I remove the whip. That tells me it is coming in through the whip, and is not getting in common mode on the cabling or grounds. I'm going to finish my bonding exercise, but it didn't seem to be making much difference. I was using the braided strap recommended by K0BG. When it didn't seem to be making a difference I shifted to copper sheet. That didn't seem to help either. I'm beginning to believe is is direct radiation to the antenna whip from the injector wiring. The weird thing is it appears to be a near field effect. Parked right under my home station antennas I hear nothing on any band with the truck running on any radio in the house.