2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Anyone sent gauges back to Autometer?

[SRath]

My expensive Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge never worked very well from Day-1. I used stainless steel hose to isolate the sender and used the Autometer snubber to dampen pulses, but it was always erratic at best and would do crazy things like spin the needle all the way around the dial on rare occasions. I even added a needle valve to see if that would help with no results. Finally, after about 3 months, it quit working entirely.

I contacted Autometer and was linked to a form to fill out and send with it. It was an online purchase and I cannot find a receipt, which the form says they require for warranty work. That matching trio of Sport Comp II gauges was pretty expensive and I had to spread their purchases out over several months and from a couple different sources.

So I have no idea if it will be fixed or replaced under any warranty or if I will get billed. If it's the latter, I'll just buy a different brand of gauge. But I would want that one back.

Has anyone here dealt with Autometer service and what was the story?

 

[Allnew2Me]

I originally had a SportComp mechanical guage that worked fine for about three years and then began to act erratically. I called them and they told me to send it back and they would take a look at it and repair it for $25. When they got it they called me to say that it was toast and it would cost $125 to replace with a new one. I reminded them that what they had told me was that it would cost $25 when I sent it in. The rep I spoke with said that the $25 covers a repair but that mine was not repairable, but if I was told $25 then he would honor that. Great customer service. They shipped me not just a new gauge but a brand new in-the-box gauge kit, with isolator and everything.



I had replaced this set with an electric gauge because I never did like the idea of a fluid line in the cab. I still have the new set in the box, never used it.



It won't hurt to send it back to let them determine if it is the sender or the gauge itself, but I had good luck with my return.

I prefer to call so I can talk to someone and explain things, it seems to work better than just filling out a form.

 

[CCiatteo]

I run a Autometer Z-series full sweep electric and experienced some erratic behavior as well. I contacted Autometer directly by phone and they sent me a new sending unit, free of charge, and required no real proof of anything. I thought that was pretty good of them, so I would feel confident in working with their warranty department on such an issue.



I ended up changing out the Autometer snubber with one from diesel dynamics (I think) which helped the problem, but didn't cure it entirely. I find that my gauge acts up when its real cold, so I don't know if the fuel in the snubber starts to gel or something causing crazy spikes in readings or what. But once at temp or in warmer weather altogether, my gauge is generally pretty stable +/- a couple psi which I think is as good as it gets in our application.



The main problem my gauge has is if I start the truck too quickly, the gauge doesn't have time to "zero" out. So the readings "stack" onto each other, meaning that when I shut the truck of at idle, my pressure is about 20 psi. So if I shut the truck off, run into the store and get a cup of coffee, come back out and start the truck right away (warm engine, don't wait for grid heaters to cycle) the engine will fire before the gauge can reset itself to zero. So the needle is at 20 psi from when I shut it off previously, and now the stepper motor inside the gauge is seeing a signal from the sender to move the needle the equivalent of 20 psi. But the gauge is already reading 20 psi, but the angular sweep of the needle (equivalent to 20 psi) still occurs. So my idle pressure will show 40 psi and my pressure at full power will show 60 psi. Once I figured this out I now make an effort to not start the truck until the gauge has zero out, and 98% of the time I am fine. Occasionally though it will still occur.



I never did install the new sending unit because I felt the problem was elsewhere in the system.



I'd give Autometer a call and speak to them. I was very impressed. They explained how the gauge works, the voltage range the sender works with in, etc. Might be able to do some trouble shooting yourself before removing and sending them the gauge.

 

[guldam]

I've been running a Marshall 60psi mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted to a grease gun hose, and then to a Torktek snubber. I blew out the first gauge after about three months. The company I bought the gauge cheerfully sent me another one, and I'm waiting to see what happens. It started out with about a 5psi fluctuation, and it's increase a little bit. Wondering if the gauge is gonna die, or maybe a fuel/air leak in the system is making it fluctuate so much. And yes there's a new Torktek overflow valve on it also, as well as a new lift pump, no fuel heater etc...

GulDam

 

[AClayton]

I have the Autometer Z-series gauges and have no problems with the exception of the Diff temp. Sometimes it reads and most of the time it stays on 100* and never moves. Hook up my heavy 5th wheel and drive down the road a few miles and the gauge will eventually peg to over 250* and stay there. I know my diff temp is not that hot because I hit it with the IR heat gun and it reads otherwise. Just been lazy about it but would like to get it replaced or fixed before spring. This thread just reminded me!



Alan

 

[chazj]

I use the Autometer Z series of guages & have had a couple of problems. The needle on the boost guage simply "fell off". I contacted them via their website and received a quick reply with the indication that they would repair the guage at no cost to me.



Recently I have had issues with the 15lb electric fuel pressure guage (2661). After working 5 years behind "the Fass 95" it started to react with wild pressure swings. A mechanical guage was used to determine that the pressure being supplied to the VP44 was adequate (no less than 10lbs at WOT). I replaced the sending unit (which, along with the snubber, is next to the firewall) and the guage again functioned... . pegged at 15 lbs. This fix only last 6 weeks though...



I've been told that I should switch to the 30 lb guage set-up and my problems will disappear??? Any other comments/suggestions most welcome...

 

[SRath]

I would say that is is good advice since a pegged gauge doesn't tell you much. The one you have is below the range needed for the application. It may not like being fully pegged all the time and that may damage it if the pressure is well above its range. When it is pegged all the time, it functions more like an idiot light than a gauge giving true readings.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

SRath

if you purchased on line and no shipping reciept no more. have you contacted your bank they would be able to track your purchase and email you a copy of your transaction. I have done this in the past on parts. hope you get fixed up.

 

[CCiatteo]

I use the Autometer Z series of guages & have had a couple of problems. The needle on the boost guage simply "fell off". I contacted them via their website and received a quick reply with the indication that they would repair the guage at no cost to me.



Recently I have had issues with the 15lb electric fuel pressure guage (2661). After working 5 years behind "the Fass 95" it started to react with wild pressure swings. A mechanical guage was used to determine that the pressure being supplied to the VP44 was adequate (no less than 10lbs at WOT). I replaced the sending unit (which, along with the snubber, is next to the firewall) and the guage again functioned... . pegged at 15 lbs. This fix only last 6 weeks though...



I've been told that I should switch to the 30 lb guage set-up and my problems will disappear??? Any other comments/suggestions most welcome...

Ideally, I think a 0-60 psi gauge would best suit most stock pumped 12v. 0-30 is too low as you will still peg the gauge at full power, 0-15 will peg the gauge at idle most likley. I run a 0-100 2-1/16 Dia gauge.



My understanding of gauges and their accuracy is that you want to pick a gauge with enough range so that your normal operating range is in the middle 50% of the gauge's range. Using my truck as an example, I see 20 to 40 psi in normal driving, so a 0-60 gauge would be perfect as that would put my normal operating range right in the middle third of the gauge's range. This is because as you approach the lower and upper limits of a gauge, the accuracy falls off, or so I understand.



Either way I'd shoot for a gauge that is 0-60 or more. 0-30 won't be enough at full power, you will peg it.

 

[chazj]

This is an update to the above post & I am more Confused and Frustrated than ever. . .



I ended up replacing my Autometer FP gauge with a completely new Autometer 30# set-up with fuel filters. Until yesterday (for 3 weeks running) the truck idled at 18#, under normal operating conditions it stayed above 15# and no less than 10# WOT.



Yesterday it started to behave irratically (like the 15# gauge as described above). Pressure jumped to 20-22 #'s. Today while it would still 1) idle at 18#'s 2) Would drop to around 10# from a easy normal start, stay in that zone for awhile & lower if I pushed it ever so slightly. Never went below 7#'s tho. 3) Going down hill and with my foot off the throttle it would stay in the 10-13# range. However if I pushed in the clutch... it would immediately jump back to 18 #'s. Let the clutch back out... pressure dropped again to the previous level.



The Fass Pump sounds the same as it always had ( I have a noisy one )... and the truck's throttle response was completely normal. If I wasn't looking at a FP gauge... I would have not suspected anything was wrong!



I'm inclined to think I may have an electrical issue as the timing of this latest issue mirrors the timing (about 1 month) when I experienced similar erratic readings after replacing the sending unit on my old Autometer 15# gauge.



Any help/suggestions would be most appreciated. I am Lost... :{