Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Anyone using an Oilguard bypass filter?

[Texas Diesel]

http://www.oilguard.com/Merchant4/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=mtm&Category_Code=dodge1



I'm trying to decide between it and a Franz (roll paper) type.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Anyone? .

 

[rweis]

I run a RACOR LFS 802 which is very very very similiar to the OilGuard. As far as I can tell in comparison with Gary's Frantz, the Frantz filters much finer, and I think at SUB micron. The RACOR filters down to 1 um and I am content with that.



One thing I did was to add a bung to the bottom of the RACOR, because when you change the filter the probability of spilling is very high. WIth the 1/4"NPT bung welded to the bottom and a petcock valve in the 1/4"NPT I can drain the filter case easily before removing the filter without any spill at all.



The bung also allows me to get an oil sample easily. I have my oil return to the filler cap, and getting a sample is not simple without spilling. With the petcock, very simple.



The manufacture of the unit seems to be very very well constructed and very heavy duty. I am very pleased with the construction.



I would like finer micron removal, but trust RACOR explicitly in their design. I chose RACOR rather than OilGuard for the RACOR reputation and focus of the product line and that is "what they do" as their primary business, and have been around for a long long time.



I also am not too keen on the remote possibility of tp getting into the oil stream, the frequency of the replacement (2k), and the general overall construction and tolerances.



The Frantz has been around for a VERY long time and is very proven to be effective and a good unit. I just chose RACOR for the reasons stated.



Bob Weis

 

[Texas Diesel]

Bob, thanks for the reply.



How much do your elements cost and how many miles do they last?



Tnx

 

[DavidC]

I have been running thr oilguard for a few years now. Seems to work fine but I guess I will not know for sure for 400k miles



Dave

 

[rweis]

The RACOR should be changed at 15k and on the 17th (June) I am going to get 2 from SoutheastPower Systems in Tampa FL. Mike Franke (parts manager) says they stock them now. I will know exact $$, but I think about $27 @.



Bob Weis

 

[SKneeland]

anyone had any experience/luck with the centrifugal type bypass filter? i see them in use alot around here in gen sets, big rigs etc. i like the idea of not having another filter to change , just scrape/bang out the leftover junk.



anydownsides? some of the manufactures claim higher solid removal potential (less than 1 micron) than the filter types, but no water removal?

 

[Texas Diesel]

Do the oilguard filters keep the oil clean & looking like fresh oil? I assume by keeping all the soot filtered out.



I wonder why the Franz have to be changed every 2 k miles.



I read somewhere that you dont want a filter smaller than 1 micron because below that the additives may get filterd out.

 

[rweis]

My RACOR 802 delays oil discoloration, but DOES NOT keep it soot free (ie clear virgin oil color), it will turn black. Right now it is oil change time and I can still read markings on the dip stick, but the oil is definitely very dark grey to light black. 5k on Delo 400.



Bob Weis

 

[Texas Diesel]

Thanks Bob, that is what I expected.



Can anyone with the Franz bypass comment on how well it keeps the soot out of the oil?

 

[rweis]

Look at some of Gary's threads. I think the Frantz does a better job of keeping the soot filtered out of the oil. He is on vacation for 3 weeks presently or I am sure he would comment.



What is the objective?, Soot free oil?



One way would be to change the oil whenever it started to pick up soot and not use a bypass filter (change it every 3k?).



Use an OilGuard type weave filter and do the same(change it every 4k?).



Use a Frantz type filter and do the same (change it every 10k?).



Use a Spinner II and do the same (change it every 20k?).



Build a stand alone filter cart and run it at night to filter the oil when the truck is sitting overnight. There are commercial filter carts that will do this.



What is the objective?, No wear to engine bearings etc?



Filter out particles to a size level below bearing dammage. Pick the size you feel analysis says is too large and then see above.



I am not convenced that clear oil means good oil unless you change it extremely often and test it often as well. What about additive packages etc?



I started to do the switch to synthetic for long term changing periods and then to maintain that oil at a very high quality level. I spent a LOT of time draining a quart and replaceing it very frequently (1k) and filter at 5k.



Something RustyJC wrote about 2 years ago kept comming back to me. "Changing oil is like flushing the toilet" for the engine. Change it routienely, change it often.



So after switching to synthetic and spending a LOT of time exchanging quarts of oil, getting oil analysis to be sure I had good oil, I changed back to dino and change it routienely and change it often (5k), filter 5k, RACOR bypass filter 15k.



What is the objective?



Bob Weis

 

[PRout]

FYI my Frantz wont take black oil and make it look clean again. I tried it with dirty oil and the oil is still black. Dont really like it in the motor like that, but the oil analysis' come out fine (at 30k miles). Just want to keep expectations realistic thats all. I have 2 frantz units in series just because I had several units available and that way, can try different things with the first one, and know the second one is kind of like a safety net just in case. Whatever bypass filter you go with, it'll be better than the OEM filter alone. I mean, the OEM filter serves its purpose of rough filtering high volumes of oil at one time, but it just cant filter like a bypass can and still keep the high flow rate.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Thanks for all the information. Expectations are realistic now.