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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Anyone using the Cummins #6 cylinder cooling kit?

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I see where Cummins makes a kit the replaces the rear soft plug on the block. This helps keep the coolant flowing thru the block and helps eliminate any excess heat buildup around the #6 cylinder. The coolant comes out of the new cast housing and return coolant goes into the heater core return hose. Just curious on how well this works and if this will affect how the heater works. Thanks.
 
Yes, I have had one installed for a couple of years. My return goes to my top radiator hose and uses an adapter in the hose to plumb the return line in. Also uses a needle valve in the feed to control the amount of coolant that you send that way. I have not seen any loss in heating ability but I use a winter front in the colder part of winter cause my truck always seemed to take a long time to warm up since new. I really have not checked into seeing if it works, but I fiqured it could not hurt since I was in there doing fire rings and studs a few years ago. Running my engine harder than before, I thought the extra cooling for #6 could not hurt, since it seems #6 has the most problems with heat. Just my 2 cents.
 
Do you have a link for the kit?

I am adding a coolant filter to my truck, see sig, and will be taking coolant from the plug by #6, to increase the flow to the rear of the block. The filter is only 2GPM, but its better than nothing!!
 
Got it from Enterprise Engine Performance but I checked their site and it's not listed. The site is under construction though, I would call them to be sure. The needle valve, is inline on the feed side between water pump and adapter that replaces the freeze plug at rear of block. It let's you control the amount of coolant that goes back there, I think that if you just installed the bypass hose, you might lose adequate flow through the exsisting passageways because the new path has alot less resistance than through the head and block.
 
Got it from Enterprise Engine Performance but I checked their site and it's not listed. The site is under construction though, I would call them to be sure. The needle valve, is inline on the feed side between water pump and adapter that replaces the freeze plug at rear of block. It let's you control the amount of coolant that goes back there, I think that if you just installed the bypass hose, you might lose adequate flow through the exsisting passageways because the new path has alot less resistance than through the head and block. I noticed that Diesel Preformance also says it is used on "regulated bypass system".
 
I use the cooling kit on every engine build we do, along with all of my personal trucks, when we pull the cylinder head.



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possible to do with the head on? if not how about with the transmission out as i will need to do a clutch upgrade before long, i haven't had the transmission out of one of these yet so i don't know what kind of access that gives
 
Almost impossible to do with head on and transmission in. Do able with transmission out and like JDKammin says, hardest part will be getting freeze pug out.
 
o-tay, i may get one of these for when i do my clutch for sort of cheap insurance, i always wondered if the way the system is plumbed and the location of the temp sensor was leading to abnormally high temp gauge readings, mine runs cooler with the super duper mr gasket thermostat (for a big block mopar) then with the pos cummins branded turd i ran for about 3 years but it still gets a touch over half on the interstate with the ac on truck unloaded, (all new everything, rad pump hoses..... ) by the way i really like this thermostat, with the cummins unit i had to run a air blocker when under 40* to get decent heat and it still never would get all of the way up to temp after the 20 mile trip to work (16 on the hwy) now about 3 miles into the trip i had decent heat in 2-3 miles and full temp not far after that in 29* last week with no blocker
 
I had the head off my '96 not long ago at 432,000 miles and cylinder #6 definitely has more wear than the others. I have a fair amount of hone marks left on the first 4 holes, some on #5 and almost none on #6.
 
So if I understand this post correct there is a freeze plug on the back of the block just above the transmission housing and below the head.
 
I had my head off when I knocked my soft plug out, but did it with a long rod from underneath. I hit it on the outside edge and tried to spin it in the opening, but ended up going into the water jacket. Ended up getting some small vise grips onto it and used a pry bar to get it out.
 
just installed mine while the head is off and it was a pain due to the position you need to be in stretched out over the motor, i took a die grinder with a fiber wheel and cut a slot in the plug then levered it out with large screwdriver, had to grind a little off the bottom of the plate because it hit the bellhousing adapter just enough to gall the 2nd bolt when i tried to screw it in from the offset, painful position and pinched shoulder muscle didn't help my attitude #@$%! or perception of it going in wrong, belt sandered off a couple mm from the bottom point then chased the hole/bolt and it went better the 2nd time
 
So if I understand this post correct there is a freeze plug on the back of the block just above the transmission housing and below the head.



Here's a post with pictures of that plug. Yeah it's close quarters. It's just above the transmission and I had to hold a small digital camera up above the ATS transmission, (looks blue in picture), to get the picture. Keep in mind mine's a 2WD as well:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...960-how-many-have-blown-out-freeze-plugs.html



This plug has a bad reputation for blowing out on the Cummins engines especailly modded ones. It's a good sized plug about 2. 28 inches dia with shallow depth flanges so it's not going to hold a whole lot of pressure.



The billet plug fix is a good idea if you can get to it. The billet plug has a NPT pipe threaded center where I guess you could do the coolant bypass if you choose.



PS- The 3rd Gens and 2nd Gens use different billet plug bolt patterns so be sure you obtain the correct plug if you go this route



:D
 
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