Here I am

anything stronger then a Dana 80?

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Rip Rook and my PE4200

Loud 5" Without the Droan?

What are my options for a replacement rear diff? I currently have a limited-slip Dana 80 that I am pretty sure is on the way out. I'm looking for something that can stand up to my playing (or, as some might say, "abuse") better then what I've currently got. I've already paid a dealer$hip to rebuild it once, and ABSOLUTELY REFUSE to go that route again.



Thanks,



Dave
 
I would love to have lockers, but from what I've heard they eat tires like there is no tomorrow. I guess I could go with an ARB or other on/off type locker. Is ARB/Detroit/any-other-locker-company any stronger then the Dana 80? Any other suggestions?
 
The Detroit is definitely harder on the tires, but if you drive them right you can extend tire life - I know, coz my milspec has one :D .



My friend has grenaded a few ARB lockers with a 22R Toyota, but he does have 239:1 crawl ratio and regularly rock crawls. ARB replaced the units with question and gave him an even stronger one which has held up fine.



The best of both worlds is a manually controlled locker that you can disengage for the street. If I ever blow the detroit up, that's the route I'll go.
 
Dana has bigger axles like the ones they put in the F450 and F550 but finding a proper gear ratio is an issue. My 550 had 4. 88 and the 450 comes with 4. 30 or 4. 88.
 
I just ordered a F-550 for our fire department. From what I understood the F-550 was a Dana 120 (of 130). At least thats what the tech said. Either way... we got a Limited Slip 5:38 ratio.
 
I could be wrong but I believe all new 450's and 550's come with 135's. When the new Super Duties came out in '99 the 450's had 80's but changed to the 135 some time along the way.
 
So if I want to go with a Dana 120/130/135, what needs to happen to make it work on my truck? Sorry for the ignorant questions, but I honestly don't know the answers... how do I know what ratio I need? Can I just take the guts out of my exsisting rear diff, or do I need to do a complete axle swap? Where can I find one? Prices?



Thanks for the help,



Dave
 
First off the 135 is 10 lug with 19. 5's, so wheels would have to be addressed. Pretty sure that nothing can be swapped from the 80 to the 135. I think the ring gear is 13. 5-14 inches and it has a drop out third member. Probably would be easier to change the front ratio to match the 135. Spring perches would need to match yours. I imagine they cost several thousand $'s. I would love to have one on my truck (gvw would probably double!). Good luck and keep us updated on what you do!
 
Originally posted by dberry

... I imagine they cost several thousand $'s...



OUCH! Um... maybe not. Then again, that's the same ballpark that the dealer wanted to rebuild my 80, so...



But by the time you figure in new wheels, spring perches, etc... I've got to admit that I'm shying away from the idea.



Any of you drag racers/sled pullers reading this? What do you guys use?
 
Another option is to go looking for military CUCV axles, like the M1028 - for under a $1000. 00 (YMMV) you could get an 8 lug full floating 10. 5" ring gear/detroit locker/4. 56 ratio/14 bolt and a full float Dana 60/4. 56 ratio/limited slip.



They come up on eBay for around $180-700 - there were some new old stock ones listed recently for good prices.
 
when i put in my arb's front and rear i contacted arb and asked them if they would hold up. they told me that some xtreme 4 wheeling guys break dana 60 lockers. the reason they break them though is becuase of the bouncing they do while one tire is in the air.



he said for straight line things such as drag racing and sled pulling the arb is much stonger than the axles are. if you want something stronger get some aftermarket 37 spline axles and the air locker to match.



jim
 
Rabid Ram, try Greensburgh (Pa) Machine for a Dana rebuild.

724 837 8233. Ask for Mark, he bleeds Dodge and Dana.



He likes the Detroits, but they do eat tires. Go with a set of Moser Axles, it should last a while longer, let you save up for a big rear.
 
Sled Puller,



Thanks for the info. I'll definitely give Mark a call when my 80 goes ka-put. Moser Axles? Never heard of them. Provided your TDR name isn't a misnomer, is that what you use in your pulling truck? If so, how well do they hold up? Where can I find info about these axles?



Dave
 
Originally posted by RabidRam

Sled Puller,



Moser Axles? Never heard of them. Provided your TDR name isn't a misnomer, is that what you use in your pulling truck? If so, how well do they hold up? Where can I find info about these axles?



Dave



NOW I DO!!!!!!:D:mad:



Try a search, they are from Portland, Indiana.
 
after market

Detroit locker as mentioned.



Moser axles.



Redline Shock proof - Heavy, synthetic Diff fluid



just depends upon what percentage you want to beef up.
 
You cannot beat the Detroit Locker for non slip. The only tire wear I noticed was a even tire wear on my rear tires-something I could never get with the limited slip-even with all new parts. :D
 
If you are interested in stronger axles don't go with the Mosers get some Superiors. The Mosers use material that can only be induction hardened (limited depth to the hardness). The Superiors use a chrome moly alloy that is through hardened. The Superiors also use rolled splines, they are a little more expensive than the Mosers but much stronger.



Gus
 
After I bought the Mosers, Italked to SCS, SCS Claimed they could make a stronger axle than Moser, also. Moser claims to be 30-35% stronger than stock.



I contacted Superior, and they said about the same thing SCS said:



"Thanks for contacting us.



As for your request, though we are familar with the D-80 differential, we would have to get a sample of your axle or a detailed drawing in order to manufacture.



As for the claims in strength increase, it all depends on material. I have no idea how much stronger our is compared to stock, but we can use a material that has 42. 25% more tensile strength than your current axles, which are made either from SAE1050 modified or SAE1541H. "



If you want the ultimate, that is definately an option. I think the Dana 80 can be built to take quite a bit, for moderate cost, before it is neccassary to upgrade the entire housing.
 
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