Hey Bud, Ohio is probably one of the States that has the greatest concentration of welding education facilities in the Nation. your goal is a worthy one. Take some vocatoinal courses or Go to The Lincoln Welding School if you can swing it. I too love to weld and have recently retired (USWA). Learn all you can. I wish you well. Head Down-Butt up-Sparks-a-Flyin=) Greg
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Arc (Stick) Welding Tips
- Thread starter rbattelle
- Start Date
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rbattelle
TDR MEMBER
I welded myself up a picture frame, which was my first "serious" project (meaning the first project for which I went out and bought some new metal). It came out pretty good, I think. I meant to take a picture of it, but forgot.
Last night I took delivery of a nice new leather cape sleeve with bib. That should stop the little burn holes in my shirtsleeves.
BK - to save you from having to read the entire thread, I'm running a Miller Maxstar 150 now, which is capable of 150A output (DC only) at 30% duty cycle.
I'm having a GREAT time, and look forward to many years of learning.
-Ryan
Last night I took delivery of a nice new leather cape sleeve with bib. That should stop the little burn holes in my shirtsleeves.
BK - to save you from having to read the entire thread, I'm running a Miller Maxstar 150 now, which is capable of 150A output (DC only) at 30% duty cycle.
I'm having a GREAT time, and look forward to many years of learning.
-Ryan
BK
TDR MEMBER
Cool Ryan. . nice difference I bet !?
I haven't gotten a good shirt/apron or set of sleeves yet.
I've used it to repair things from bike frames to car seats.
Platforms and holders/racks of sorts for my trailer.
My Dad had this tall garden yard trailer, meant to be pulled by a person. But he pulled it with his jeep , very slowly, around his complex with his compressor on it and other stuff blowing out sprinklers. It kept flipping on him cause of being soo tall, narrow width on the wheels, and the high CG from the weight of the compressor.
So we "Chopped" the wagon, lowered it to just a few inches off the ground. Made up all new axles and mounts and front turning gear. That was fun too. Been working great for 5 years and no more flips.
My friend is putting together the parts to make all sorts of holders and things for his trailer. . so I have a welding project coming up soon. Looking forward to it.
I haven't gotten a good shirt/apron or set of sleeves yet.
I've used it to repair things from bike frames to car seats.
Platforms and holders/racks of sorts for my trailer.
My Dad had this tall garden yard trailer, meant to be pulled by a person. But he pulled it with his jeep , very slowly, around his complex with his compressor on it and other stuff blowing out sprinklers. It kept flipping on him cause of being soo tall, narrow width on the wheels, and the high CG from the weight of the compressor.
So we "Chopped" the wagon, lowered it to just a few inches off the ground. Made up all new axles and mounts and front turning gear. That was fun too. Been working great for 5 years and no more flips.
My friend is putting together the parts to make all sorts of holders and things for his trailer. . so I have a welding project coming up soon. Looking forward to it.
rbattelle
TDR MEMBER
Multi-Pass Tee-Joints
Is there a proper technique for multi-passing a tee joint?
I run my first pass right into the center of the joint, then run pass 2 to sit just above the first pass, followed by pass 3 just below the first pass. But my second and third passes don't seem to come out so great. I think maybe I need more heat on these... is it normal to crank up the heat a few amps for the extra passes? With the same heat setting they don't seem to "melt into" the first pass. Maybe I'm pointing the electrode in the wrong direction.
-Ryan
Is there a proper technique for multi-passing a tee joint?
I run my first pass right into the center of the joint, then run pass 2 to sit just above the first pass, followed by pass 3 just below the first pass. But my second and third passes don't seem to come out so great. I think maybe I need more heat on these... is it normal to crank up the heat a few amps for the extra passes? With the same heat setting they don't seem to "melt into" the first pass. Maybe I'm pointing the electrode in the wrong direction.
-Ryan
run the root pass in the center. then run the second pass right to the bottom edge of the first pass and think of it as the center of the joint and dig it in there. the third pass run above the first and second and you should use less fill and travel faster then the other passes. but as a citified pipe welder i know nothing :-laf weld on brother
The Fat Kid
Andy
The Fat Kid
Andy
hey andy, how have you been? any new projects lately?
Ryan, Andy got you pointed in the right direction. If you find a text, you'll see specifics on this. Miller has a downloadedable one at millerwelds.com go under education, welding lybrary, and see the manual for SMAW. Also, when you tie your beads into one-another, make sure they are close enough (running parallel) that there is not a large valley or groove inbetween the two beads.
Ryan, Andy got you pointed in the right direction. If you find a text, you'll see specifics on this. Miller has a downloadedable one at millerwelds.com go under education, welding lybrary, and see the manual for SMAW. Also, when you tie your beads into one-another, make sure they are close enough (running parallel) that there is not a large valley or groove inbetween the two beads.
not a stick weld [link is one of my mig weld samples i did for welding class in school], but when i was in school, this is how i was told how to do a multipass Tee weld. root pass first, bottom was #2, top was #3
was done with some lincoln mig [multiprocess machine can't remember model] pushing the torch from right to left...
was done with some lincoln mig [multiprocess machine can't remember model] pushing the torch from right to left...
Last edited by a moderator:
rbattelle
TDR MEMBER
Have a look at this triple pass I ran tonight with the advice that #2 is the bottom and #3 is the top of the root pass. Sorry about the slag "film" over pass 2. This doesn't look very good to me. It just looks "not right". What do you guys think?
I don't really know how much it affects things, but this piece of metal is very rusty. I cleaned it up around the joint with an angle grinder, but it's pretty badly pitted nevertheless. It's actually a piece of tee-shaped fence post, so there's not a "real" tee joint here.
I think clean metal is easier and gives a nicer weld.
-Ryan
I don't really know how much it affects things, but this piece of metal is very rusty. I cleaned it up around the joint with an angle grinder, but it's pretty badly pitted nevertheless. It's actually a piece of tee-shaped fence post, so there's not a "real" tee joint here.
I think clean metal is easier and gives a nicer weld.
-Ryan
hey coalsmoke. nothing new just tearing down my motor for a rebuild after the oil pump died at 2000rpm.
as far as the weld. you pass #2 is to far away from the first pass. think of pass #2 as another pass #1 and lay it in there so it rides up on #1 and stays as high as #1 kinda so you have a shelf to lay #3 on.
The Fat Kid
Andy
as far as the weld. you pass #2 is to far away from the first pass. think of pass #2 as another pass #1 and lay it in there so it rides up on #1 and stays as high as #1 kinda so you have a shelf to lay #3 on.
The Fat Kid
Andy
Hi Ryan,
This has been mentioned before many times,, but you jsut gotta get better clean metal on which to learn.
When you get the experience then you can do more with unclean and rusty base,, but for now for goodness sake go buy 10ft of 1/4 or 3/16 x 2 flat.
Practicing a teejoint on a fence post is not going to give you the feel of a real teejoint cause the heat propagation is not going to work the same way with two separate pieces.
With your furrent base, you are fighting too many unpleasant variables and not spending time to train the hand/eye brain connection.
BTW. . even with your self imposed disadvantages your beads really look good for no longer than you have been welding!!!
Keep it up. .
This has been mentioned before many times,, but you jsut gotta get better clean metal on which to learn.
When you get the experience then you can do more with unclean and rusty base,, but for now for goodness sake go buy 10ft of 1/4 or 3/16 x 2 flat.
Practicing a teejoint on a fence post is not going to give you the feel of a real teejoint cause the heat propagation is not going to work the same way with two separate pieces.
With your furrent base, you are fighting too many unpleasant variables and not spending time to train the hand/eye brain connection.
BTW. . even with your self imposed disadvantages your beads really look good for no longer than you have been welding!!!
Keep it up. .
Ryan, Not too bad (Previous picture) Try turning up the heat 115 to 125 for 1/8 inch rod depending on the metal you are welding on.
On your three pass tee weld, try to lay the third bead on 1/2 of the previous bead... . stack them tighter.
But things look better compaired to last time I checked in here.
Keep going bud,
Dave
On your three pass tee weld, try to lay the third bead on 1/2 of the previous bead... . stack them tighter.
But things look better compaired to last time I checked in here.
Keep going bud,
Dave
rbattelle
TDR MEMBER
Here are two pics of recent welds. I'm working on another picture frame made from 3/16 x 1 hot-rolled steel flat bar stock. This is nice, fresh, shiny metal... MUCH easier to work with than the rusted junk I usually have.
3/32 7018 DCEP at about 70 amp. Nice penetration through about 1/2 the metal.
The first picture is a weld that I think is nice. The picture doesn't really do it justice, and there's quite a bit of slag "residue" around it. But I think it came out pretty good. The slag just chipped off with the lightest of hammer blows.
The second picture is a weld I think is poor. The 2 pieces were first tacked in place (which went rather well, actually), then cooled, then welded the rest of the way.
The interesting thing is that both of these welds were done with the same rod at the same current; the only difference being technique. Specifically, in the first picture I moved slower and more carefully. Also, in the "bad" weld the electrode was brand new, which means it was very long. I find the long electrodes shake a lot on the end while I'm trying to be smooth. The shaking and wiggling around really plays havoc with things.
-Ryan
3/32 7018 DCEP at about 70 amp. Nice penetration through about 1/2 the metal.
The first picture is a weld that I think is nice. The picture doesn't really do it justice, and there's quite a bit of slag "residue" around it. But I think it came out pretty good. The slag just chipped off with the lightest of hammer blows.
The second picture is a weld I think is poor. The 2 pieces were first tacked in place (which went rather well, actually), then cooled, then welded the rest of the way.
The interesting thing is that both of these welds were done with the same rod at the same current; the only difference being technique. Specifically, in the first picture I moved slower and more carefully. Also, in the "bad" weld the electrode was brand new, which means it was very long. I find the long electrodes shake a lot on the end while I'm trying to be smooth. The shaking and wiggling around really plays havoc with things.
-Ryan
<<Also, in the "bad" weld the electrode was brand new, which means it was very long. I find the long electrodes shake a lot on the end while I'm trying to be smooth. The shaking and wiggling around really plays havoc with things>>
This why Ryan, I cannot emphasize enough to stay with metal (not rusted or painted etc) so that you gain the coordination without thinking of rod length and other things that will eventually become automatic.
I think both pictures display good welds. You are well on the way.
I dont know how to get back to your post but I thought you siad you were using HR but that looks like cold rolled to me.
This why Ryan, I cannot emphasize enough to stay with metal (not rusted or painted etc) so that you gain the coordination without thinking of rod length and other things that will eventually become automatic.
I think both pictures display good welds. You are well on the way.
I dont know how to get back to your post but I thought you siad you were using HR but that looks like cold rolled to me.
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