Arc (Stick) Welding Tips

[rbattelle]

Here's tonight's work. I cranked the current up to just below 90 amp (maybe 85 or 87 amp). I spent a lot of time practicing on some scrap, and found that at 90 amp it's easy to just burn right through. It's easy at 85 amp too, if you linger in one spot just a little too long.



The problem I'm having at these higher currents is my welds start out looking like a nice stack of dimes, but as I advance the weld penetrates deeper and deeper and begins to look very flat (no stack of dimes). This is basically 100% penetration.



Is that supposed to happen? Do I need to weld a second pass over the flat portions to lay a bead over top? The flat sections don't look anything like the pictures of the "right" bead I've seen in various literature.



Ryan

 

[GHarman]

Ryan, That looks real good. On 11 Ga. material you probably dont need 2 passes. Just move a little faster and oscillate the rod a little towards the end where it gets flat. You are probably geting 100% penetration under the stacked dimes, but the surrounding metal is still absorbing the heat. As it gets hotter your metal is melting farther away from the actual joint causing the puddle to sink. As far as the undercut at the toe of your fillet weld your rod position and angle are determined by the position of the weld, but you do have to pause to allow the toe to fill in. Especially with 7018. Good work! GregH

 

[dd76522]

hey keep it up ryan this was a real page turner for me since i too am an aspiring master manipulator of molten metal

 

[BGlidewell]

master manipulator of molten metal

Jammed-up and jelly-tight

 

[DValentine]

ryan, on such thin metal, at 85 or 90 amps, the work piece will get so hot, your bead will not "look" as good as thicker metal. The bead will flatten out. That is ok. As Greg said you are getting plenty of penetration. Try welding one corner from the edge to the middle of your joint, let the metal cool and then come from the other side back to the middle and end your weld as you overlap your first weld. This well keep you from loosing your puddle at the edge of the metal as you come to the edge of your work.



Keep up the good work.

Dave

 

[cojhl2]

ryan, Try welding one corner from the edge to the middle of your joint, let the metal cool and then come from the other side back to the middle and end your weld as you overlap your first weld. This well keep you from loosing your puddle at the edge of the metal as you come to the edge of your work.

Dave

Also gives the heat somplace to go. .

 

[rbattelle]

I've been welding this tube steel with 2 or 3 short sections followed by a cooldown period. It's been working well.



It didn't occur to me that I should weld from each end toward the center, finishing up in the middle. Good idea... might make the welds look a little more consistent (it's easy to see where I've started and stopped in most of my welds).



I've been running as much as 90-105 amp on this stuff with very few burn-throughs.



Ryan

 

[GHarman]

RYAN, ARE YOU READY TO TAKE A 6g PIPE TEST? 6" SCHEDULE 80; 5P OR TIG ROOT AND 7018 FILL AND CAP? CHECK OUT THE AMERICAN WELDING SOCIETY. ALSO, LINCOLN WELDING SCHOOL,LINCOLN ELECTRIC COMPANY IN OHIO. THERE IS GOOD MONEY TO BE MADE AS A CERTIFIED WELDOR. YOU HAVE COME A LONG WAY SINCE FEBRUARY. MERRY CHRISTMAS. ( PS; I prefer the logo; MANIPULATING MOLTEN METAL FOR THE MASTER. ) GREGH

 

[rbattelle]

One of my best Christmas gifts! It's on the door to my laboratory... :-laf



Ryan

 

[GHarman]

That sign has relevance in other ways, as in ; when the light of creativity flashes in that room there are shadows permanently, photographically imprinted on the walls :--) . Keep up the good work. GregH