Are brakes covered under the 36000 mile warranty?

[ECappleman]

Dealership just called me and said my front brakes are in the yellow range and glazed. 32000 miles.

They want $250 to change.



Also how hard is it to do yourself? I have done my 1/2 ton several times with the old C clamp trick, pushing in the caliper.



Thanks in advance.

 

[lmills]

brakes are usually considered normal wear items. They usually fall under the 12,000 mile warranty

 

[ECappleman]

Too bad.



How hard are they to change compared to my 1/2 tons?

What are the best quality/price pads fo them?



Thanks

 

[lmills]

sorry, but I have never had to change mine on the 3rd gen. I wouldn't think it would be too hard since they are disc brakes

 

[Texasrattler]

The only thing to be careful about is with any ABS system open the bleader screw before pushing the pistons back in. I read that you can damage the ABS system forcing fluid back up the lines. Although I haven't done this in the past.



Pete

 

[ECappleman]

Thanks.

What brake pads to get? Anything decent from the Auto parts?

 

[EBottema]

Hey EC-



Brakes are very easy easy easy to do. The C clamp trick will work, just don't get excessive with it. Go to Carquest or any Brake supply store and purchase some bendix semi-metallic pads. They will run you approx 50-60 dollars. Make sure you get the corners of the pads to the grinder and chamfer them so they will be quiet. You might need to turn the rotors but I doubt you will need to w/32k miles on the truck. If there are any grooves in them please turn them... . Don't go with any other pads than bendix or factory... You will be sorry. So approx 1. 5 hours and 50-60 for pads and your set... . Make sure you check the caliper slide pins that they are greased and move freely...



Erik

 

[Tim]

Carquest doesn't sell Bendix, they sell Raybestos which are every bit as good.



Buy chamfered pads, don't do it with a grinder.



Get CERAMIC pads, they last much longer.



Rotors need to be turned or replaced with every brake service... working in the machine shop, I never saw one that wasn't warped beyond spec that came into my shop, ever, no matter how nice it looked (though some were closer than others, the specs are usually pretty tight).

 

[EBottema]

Carquest doesn't sell Bendix, they sell Raybestos which are every bit as good.



Buy chamfered pads, don't do it with a grinder.



Get CERAMIC pads, they last much longer.



Rotors need to be turned or replaced with every brake service... working in the machine shop, I never saw one that wasn't warped beyond spec that came into my shop, ever, no matter how nice it looked (though some were closer than others, the specs are usually pretty tight).

Sorry, Tim was right about that. Carquest in-house pads are Raybestos. The local carquest had problems to they stopped selling carquest brand pads and started stocking bendix. You can get bendix from any brake or underbody store.



However, buying regular chamfered pads are not enough of a chamfer. You need to cut a 45 degree angle on the outsides side of the pads. There is nothing wrong with using the grinder as long and you don't slip it and have a little common sense.



Don't get ceramic pads, they can be noisy. They also wear the rotors out quick since they are harder than semi-metallic pads.



9 out of 10 times you will need to turn the rotors. If they look spotless then it is not a big deal not machining them but most likely you will want to



Erik

 

[Tim]

Ceramic pads are the quietest and lowest dusting pads on the market. They don't wear rotors faster than anything else either, that's a myth... . they just last so long, that the rotors will be worn out before the pads.



I know what Carquest carries because I used to work there.



FWIW:



I've sold thousands and thousands of sets of brake pads. I have had many come back with complaints of noise, or dust, or both. That said, 99% of the noise complaints came from semi metalics, about 50% of the dust complaints and the other 50% going to organics, and never a single complaint of noise or dust for someone using ceramic pads. The OE on this truck are likely ceramic, too. You can take what you will from that... I wasn't sold on the high price tag until I sold hundreds of sets and never had a complaint, and had nothing but praise about the smooth braking with no noise or dust to speak of that ceramic pads offer.

 

[EBottema]

I have seen ceramics installed on personal and customer's vehicles. All have ended up having way less dust but some were noisier than semi metallics. Stopping distance was improved with the ceramics also. They dig harder into the rotors. But, rotor wear was higher. Anytime you put a harder pad with a regular steel rotor, you are going to have more wear, that is common sense. If your going to run ceramic pads, you need cyrogen rotors or some kind of upgraded rotor...

 

[Tim]

Nearly all vehicles come from the factory with ceramic pads nowadays.



Ceramic is not harder than the metal that makes up the, "metallic" in semi metallic.



I run both depending on application, but without question ceramics are superior in every regard in my opinion.

 

[DPKetchum]

If rotors look good and no vibration or shudder replace the pads only. Replaced MANY sets of pads only in the shops I was in. In fact lots of memos from manufactures stating this. I always use factory linings. Found in the long run the best rotor wear,less noise and good stopping ability compared to many aftermarket pads. Just replaced front and rear sets at 63k on my Mercury Gran Marguis v8 rwd. Rotors look great,no brake pulse before or after.

 

[rbattelle]

ECappleman,



I definitely encourage you to do the job yourself. It will be no more diffucult than your 1/2 ton trucks. I've used the "c-clamp trick" on every brake job I've ever done [although admittedly I've never tried it on a 2-piston caliper]. Works like a charm every time, and is cheaper than buying a special tool. Like Texasrattler mentions, be sure to either open the bleeder screw or take the cap off the master cylinder before pushing in the piston.



Anyway, while you're at it have you considered flushing the brake fluid? Doing so can help with overall brake system life.



-Ryan

 

[ECappleman]

Thanks people for all the replies!



Still kinda confused on your post on what brake pads to use though.



I guess I will go to the Auto parts and see what are my choices.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Rotors need to be turned or replaced with every brake service... working in the machine shop, I never saw one that wasn't warped beyond spec that came into my shop, ever, no matter how nice it looked

My experience is directly opposite. I always check my rotors for minimum thickness and runout. I've never had a rotor with more than . 002-. 003" of runout (spec. is . 006"), and never had a rotor that was below minimum thickness. I went through about 6 sets of pads on my '95 3500 before changing rotors, never turned them (because they never needed it), and never had any pulsation problems.



When I checked my pads on my '03 a couple of weeks ago (new tires at 47K), the stock pads were still in good shape (at least 50% on the fronts, more on the rears), min. thickness was not an issue, and runout was almost non-existant (maybe . 001, . 0015 at the most). I will have no reservations about just slapping on a new set of pads when the time comes.



-Tom

 

[Tim]

There are specs for surface finish as well.



If you're in spec, rock on with your bad *** self. I haven't yet seen a set that were. 3/4 and 1 ton trucks that aren't used hard usually have the least runout though.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

There are specs for surface finish as well.

Oh yeah - almost forgot. Trhee times around with the ScotchBrite pad



-Tom

 

[Matt400]

I agree with Tom on machining.

The thinner they are the more susceptible to warping as the thinner surface can't handle the heat. If you have no brake shudder then reuse as is.



BTW, what about brake shudder as a 3/36 warranty?? Some do and some don't cover the rotors from what I hear.