Are goosenecks worth it on the 2500 for hot shotting?

[Crunch]

There's also a hot shotting question in this. I've never liked the idea of cutting into the dash, body, etc. when installing accessories. I've towed 12,000lb trailer loads all over the South with a Class IV without any problems. But now that all my warranties have expired and I'm using my truck for more work I'm seriously considering adding a gooseneck hitch in the bed and trying to find some work hot shotting loads. Is it worth putting a gooseneck hitch in a 3/4 ton truck or is that something more suited to a 1 ton, when the intended purpose is hot shotting? If it was just hauling cattle or small loads I wouldn't be asking this question. But every one of the trucks I've seen on the road doing this have been 1 tons, and every driver I've talked to on the CB has been driving a 1 ton. If the 3/4 ton truck is too small then I won't bother with the gooseneck. But if it works, what is the best gooseneck hitch on the market? Since I use the bed a lot I would need it to drop below the bed or be easily removable. Also, what's the best way to get into hot shotting? I've made great money hauling small loads around town for people, and hauling live shrimp but the latter is all done in a two month window and the former is unpredictable. I'd like to fill in the downtimes on my truck and drop my cost per mile numbers even further. It's currently $. 51/mile.



Thanks.

 

[RBeard]

The GCVW is the only difference and it's only about 5K lbs. I have a 24'GN flatbed and I haul up to GCVW and a little above all the time with no problems for 200K miles. If you want to change trucks it has to be cost effective.

 

[Crunch]

The GCVW is the only difference and it's only about 5K lbs. I have a 24'GN flatbed and I haul up to GCVW and a little above all the time with no problems for 200K miles. If you want to change trucks it has to be cost effective.

As I understand the law as interpreted by others on the TDR, the GVRW listed on the door is only true for the 3/4 trucks. The GVRW of a one ton dually is determined by the weight ratings of the tires. I've heard horror stories here from members who have been, or had friends cited for weight violations. I think the tickets started near $1000.

 

[jgillott]

As I understand the law as interpreted by others on the TDR, the GVRW listed on the door is only true for the 3/4 trucks. The GVRW of a one ton dually is determined by the weight ratings of the tires. I've heard horror stories here from members who have been, or had friends cited for weight violations. I think the tickets started near $1000.

For what it's worth, DOT officers can and will inspect a 3/4 ton like any other on the road. I personally was questioned last January getting off of the PA turnpike with a load of sand bags. To make a long story short, they were very nice and explaned everything to me as they went through the process. Thankfully, I was underweight by about 400#.

 

[CDonaldson]

I have been stopped in a DOT check, they did not even look at my door sticker, they looked at the wt rating on my tires and the weight class/rating of my registration.



They did a fuel dip, portable scale test. I was pulling my 14K GN flatbed trailer, over the tire flatbed, loaded to it's max, the pin weight was well within the trucks capacity GVWR, the tire rating, and my registration.



The DOT guy said I was one of the few that was actuallly going down the road legally, then he commented about how many Dodge 2500's they had issued tickets to. I asked him what was the real difference since the 2500 was esentially the same truck without the overload springs. He told me that the 1 ton is in a different class rating.



I have a 14K car hauler/flat top bumper pull, between the tires flatbed, when it is loaded with the same exact load running level, it does pull down on the rear axle more than the GN sitting on top of the axle. It does put more weight on the rear axle when tested on a portable scale, no much, but still more.



I get better fuel mileage with the GN than when pulling the bumper pull.



I have a Pop Up Flip over ball GN hitch, rated at 30K. It was easy to install, no big deal cutting the hole, bolts up to the truck frame. Took me about an hour to install it start to finish. I prefer pulling the GN over the BP, but it is much easier to use the BP for car hauling, bobcat, etc. I use the GN more for lumber, hay, large loads that can be loaded with a forklift.



CD

 

[AABEN]

I like the fifth wheel hitch. It is easy to hook up to. I know it takes up your bed but I never use my bed. I have three trailers to use two fifth wheels one bumper pull 20ft dove tail. the other fifth wheel are 20ft flat bed 38ft camper.

 

[Crunch]

I have been stopped in a DOT check, they did not even look at my door sticker, they looked at the wt rating on my tires and the weight class/rating of my registration.

That confirms what I've heard here, as well. So do y'all think it's worth it to put a gooseneck hitch on a 2500 if the intention is to make some extra money hot shotting?



Thanks.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a gooseneck hitch is a nice tool to have when you need it. and if you can find hauls that actually make you money, by all means, go for it. my buddy makes good money with his 2500 hauling motorcycles.



but unless you have hauls lined up already, I wouldn't go counting your chickens before they hatch

 

[Simplysmn]

and Trust me Stay away from U Ship.com they are fool's over there they will work for peanut's and less .

 

[MStearns]

I think a Gooseneck hitch is an absolute must. I wouldn't live without mine. As far as ratings go I am not entirely sure what the newer trucks are rated at but as a general rule a 2500 can legally drag a heavier trailer than a 3500. Both are usually rated for the same GCVW and since the 2500 wieghs less itself that usually translates into about 400 extra pounds on the trailer. Yes the 3500 is rated for an additional 1500 pounds of GVW but, for my 96 anyway, the GCVW is the same for both (18,000 lbs) which means you can drag a heavier trailer with a 2500. My manual lists the maximum trailer weight for my 2500 at 12,300 lbs and the maximum trailer weight for the comparable 3500 at 11,900 lbs. Just be careful how you load it so you don't put to much weight on the truck itself. Happy towing

 

[MStearns]

I should add, that I routinely run around with a GCVW of 19-20K (1-2 thousand above my rated GCVW) so I guess I'm lucky I haven't had to stop and talk with the DOT folks.

 

[MStearns]

FYI... . Just spoke with a friend who works for the DOT. When they check the weight on vehicles they simply add the GVW rating of the tow vehicle to that of the trailer. (Vehicle manufacture ratings be damned I guess) For my 96 that would make me safe up to almost 23K (8800+14000) in the eyes of the DOT.

 

[carson6]

My pop up ball works great

 

[Crunch]

My pop up ball works great

What brand is it, and can you cover the opening in the bed with a plate?

 

[MMeier]

Crunch, B&W is the hitch you want, GN rated for 30k... provided you are legal... and the companion 5'er hitch is good to 18k. You do plan on running legit, are you not? DOT/ MC numbers, high $$$$$ insurance and all the other happy BS!

 

[Crunch]

I like the fifth wheel hitch. It is easy to hook up to. I know it takes up your bed but I never use my bed.

I like the fifth wheel setup, but I've always thought it wasted on a 2500. Plus, I can't lose the bed space. If I had a 3500 dually though, I would definitely have a fiver on it.

Crunch, B&W is the hitch you want, GN rated for 30k... provided you are legal... and the companion 5'er hitch is good to 18k. You do plan on running legit, are you not? DOT/ MC numbers, high $$$$$ insurance and all the other happy BS!

Hmmmm... Can't say that I am. I plan on running legal when it comes to safety, but not when it comes to all the DOT R&Rs. I don't even know what rules and regs I need to obey. I do know that the shrimp I deliver have a maximum life span of 24 hours in the totes I use. No way they could be delivered to some of the places I drive to if I had to limit my driving to 10 hours a day. I'm hoping to do this frequently enough to make some extra money and infrequently enough to avoid having to comply with the fed/state R&Rs. There's got to be a dividing line between hauling a friend's bull 800 miles to his new property and hauling a 53' cattle trailer. I'm hoping to stay just shy of that line.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

just realize, they're getting more strict every year

 

[Crunch]

just realize, they're getting more strict every year

And because of that I am taking another look at making money doing the hot shot thing. I wasn't aware that so many of the R&Rs that apply to semis also apply to the Joe Blow with a pickup truck. I thought it was mainly weight limits and having a road-worthy vehicle. I've hauled stuff for people since I was in college. I once hauled a fully loaded pickup and incorrectly loaded U-Haul trailer from Texas to Las Vegas for a friend who was moving. I was paid for fuel, hotel, food and some extra cash on the side. Made Vegas in 23 hours. Would that be viewed as commercial driving by the federal and state DOTs? I had to stop at a check point at the Arizona border, but they only asked if I had fresh fruit in the truck. I've never seen that as commercial driving, but then I don't consider something "income" unless the person who gives it to me reports it to the government. If I have a Mini Cooper and someone pays me $500 to drive a shoe box full of ceramics 200 miles, is that commercial? Maybe the best way to look at this is to get the legal definition of what makes one a commercial driver. Does anyone know the precise legal definition?

 

[MMeier]

The short of it... you were compensated, you are commercial! I'm hanging up my transport deal "for the time being". Landed a spot full time with the county here last week. Just went and dropped my commercial insurance and put the '03 back on my regular policy ... $600 more in my pocket monthly. Will be turning in my app plates, IFTA licence tomorrow and putting regular plates back on, probably tag it at around 17k# or so. You will be hating life big time if you get caught hauling without all the proper stuff in place, not to mention how you are going to explain to the person whose stuff got confiscated.

 

[carson6]

pop up hitch is the brand it has two retractable safty chain mounts and the ball flushes out nicely. just pull a lever and the ball dissapears... push it to pop it up. ( a plastic cover when you jump into the bed it and snap it on. )it has a 30,000 lb rating