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ATF questions

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Start up is really rough, 2000 miles away from home!

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Wyoming Diesel Power(repair shop), Cody Wy

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I am getting ready to service my 48RE and was wondering how much of what to buy. I've had the dealer do it before since it had gone bad and had work done and really wanted to keep the warrantee solid.





I plan to drop the pan and replace the filter, which i already have. I run amsoil in my axles, but figure i should just use whatever the dealer puts in fir atf, since a lot of that will be staying in the system.



Thanks
 
Assuming you have a factory pan, you'll need approximately 6 quarts for a drain and refill. Buy 7 or 8 quarts to be safe.



A regular depth Mag-Hytec pan holds about 6. 5 quarts.



A double-deep Mag-Hytec pan holds about 9 quarts.



Have fun getting transmission fluid all over your arms. :)



John L.
 
Forgot to mention...

Use any licensed brand of ATF+4 transmission fluid listed on this web site:

Chrysler Group ATF+4® Information Center

Note that ALL licensed ATF+4 transmission fluid is synthetic, even though not all brands will bother to mention it on the label. In other words, don't feel tempted to pay more for a brand simply because it says it's synthetic on the label.

John L.
 
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I would recommend removing all the rear bolts and half of the side bolts and use the front and side bolts as hinges, gradually loosening them until you can pull the pan down. I didn't make a mess when I did it.
 
I would recommend removing all the rear bolts and half of the side bolts and use the front and side bolts as hinges, gradually loosening them until you can pull the pan down.
Or install a Mag-Hytec pan and simply pull the drain plug. :)
 
If you are completely emptying and refilling, I imagine the 48RE will take a similar amount to my 47RE: 17 quarts. Servicing is listed at 10. 5 quarts, I believe.
 
Forgot to mention...



Use any licensed brand of ATF+4 transmission fluid listed on this web site:



Chrysler Group ATF+4® Information Center



Note that ALL licensed ATF+4 transmission fluid is synthetic, even though not all brands will bother to mention it on the label. In other words, don't feel tempted to pay more for a brand simply because it says it's synthetic on the label.



John L.
Most of the ATF on the market are made using a "Group III" base stock, which is a "Hydro-Processed" petroleum. Not quite as good as one that is made from a "Group IV" or Group V base stock.
 
I've had my transmission flushed and filled at the dealership a couple of times and I'm currently overdue for another go round. My question is, how much merit is there in having the powerflush and full replacement of all 16(?) qts of fluid done? I've wanted to prevent needing a $5 or $6k transmission job done in the useful life of this truck but am I throwing good money after bad to have the dealership do this at about $300 a pop?
 
My question is, how much merit is there in having the powerflush and full replacement of all 16(?) qts of fluid done? I've wanted to prevent needing a $5 or $6k transmission job done in the useful life of this truck but am I throwing good money after bad to have the dealership do this at about $300 a pop?
In my humble opinion that's not a good value for the money spent. I'd want to see the independent lab results before I spent that kind of money.



The things that will ultimately wear out in our trannys aren't influenced significantly by having all the fluid replaced unless there's something wrong... like the fluid is contaminated. The stock torque convertor lock-up clutch and the front band come to mind, to name a couple of parts that wear out no matter what.



Save your money and follow the service manual... a fluid drain and refill with a new filter and band adjustment every 15,000 miles when towing, or 30,000 miles with normal driving.



Others may disagree, but I'll stick with Chrysler's engineers and their carefully considered recommendations in the official service manual.



John L.
 
I've had my transmission flushed and filled at the dealership a couple of times and I'm currently overdue for another go round. My question is, how much merit is there in having the powerflush and full replacement of all 16(?) qts of fluid done? I've wanted to prevent needing a $5 or $6k transmission job done in the useful life of this truck but am I throwing good money after bad to have the dealership do this at about $300 a pop?



A full fluid replacement should be done every 30k, 20-25k if your towing all the time. In short, your wasting the service and your trans if you do NOT do a full exchange.



The bulk of your fluid is still in the trans, contains metal filings and clutch material, and has been depleted of the aromatics that keep the clutches working correctly and seals flexible.



The stock Borg high enrgy steels and clutches are relatively soft by design and tend to shed material. Part of the ATF+4 is to suspend this material and still maintain lubrication properties. If you don't replace as much of the fluid as possible every 30k its like running sand in the fluid after a certain point.



The $300 is pretty steep considering there is less than $100 of fluid used though. Is it worth it? Thats your call but compared to $4k for a dealer rebuild\replace it might be cheaper.



I would check with one of the lube places if you have any and see what they want to do an exchange. If its more reasonable use it to leverage a better deal out of the dealership.



BTW, this is NOT an opinion. Its right out of the FSM and augemented by Dodge engineers and top trans builders. :)
 
I bought off of the Mac tool truck some years ago a large square trans funnel pan that fits over a regular oil drain pan. Sure saves a big mess.
I also start with an EMPTY drain pan, drain the trans and filter into it, then measure the amount of oil I drained. I refill the trans with the same amount of new oil.
 
BTW, this is NOT an opinion. Its right out of the FSM and augemented by Dodge engineers and top trans builders. :)
Can you please tell me where in the factory service manual it says to do a full transmission fluid flush as part of regular maintenace?



I just looked and can't seem to find it.



All I was able to find was this in chapter 0 - Lubrication and Maintenance:



SCHEDULE “A”



30,000 Miles (48 000 km) or at 24 months



Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid.

Replace filter and adjust bands.



SCHEDULE “B”

Follow this schedule if you usually operate your vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.

• Frequent short driving less than 5 miles (8 km);

• Frequent driving in dusty conditions;

• Frequent trailer towing;

• Extensive idling;

• More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C).



15,000 Miles (24 000 km)



Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid.

Replace filter and adjust bands.​

Thanks,



John L.
 
I'm not a transmission rebuilder but it has long been my opinion that an automatic transmission flush sold by dealer service writers to the unsuspecting is not required, perhaps not even in the owner's best interest, might cause a small particle of material to end up where it shouldn't be, and is intended only to enhance the dealer's service department's profit and loss statement.

I have never had one done and don't know anyone who recommends it.
 
that an automatic transmission flush sold by dealer service writers to the unsuspecting is not required, perhaps not even in the owner's best interest



Couple of clarifications, a fluid exchange is not a flush. To do a flush correctly some items need to be removed from the truck and even replaced. A flush is done if a transmission has expired while running and is generally required for warranty of a new unit.



A fluid exchange is simply that, all the old fluid is exchanged for new by a machine that uses the cooler lines and maintains flow in the same direction as OE. This is reccomended service on all the newer high performance fluids to renew them.



New fluids and new equipment require new paradigms and new ideas. This is not your daddy's Ram. :-laf
 
Hey Guys, I appreciate everyone's input on this matter and for the sake of not wanting to be the catalyst that causes an overly heated discussion on this topic, perhaps I'm using the term flush improperly, maybe the dealer shop is only doing an exchange?



I've read in a few different places that some guys unhook a line to the transmission cooler and pump all the fluid out by running the engine until ATF stops flowing, what do you guys think of that method?
 
I've read in a few different places that some guys unhook a line to the transmission cooler and pump all the fluid out by running the engine until ATF stops flowing, what do you guys think of that method?



That is the way I do it.

Only thing I want my transmission swapping spit with is its own self... ..... :-laf



I don't want even a particle of leftover stuff from someone else's poorly maintained transmission introduced into mine.



Mike. :)
 
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