ATS torque specs

[BRobertson]

The instructions that came with my new ATS manifold didn't give torque specs. Can someone out there please advise????

Also where is the spot to tap for pyro???

Thanks very much!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

 

[QRTRHRS]

Bob, there are two raised "bosses" on the top of the center section where the turbo bolts on. Use one of those. I used stainless hardware with anti sieze on the threads. I torqued to factory specs: 43 N-m or 32 ft lbs. Now, the factory manual says to torque in sequence. Looking at your stock manifold from what would be the passengers side if in place the secounce would be:



12 8 4 1 5 9



11 7 3 2 6 10



I loosely applied this to the three sections.



You may want to consider a ceramic coating such as Jet Hot. Otherwise expect rust.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

I've seen lots of Cummins exhaust manifold bolts come loose, even after torquing to 32 lbs. I found that 40 lbs works much better--never had one come loose yet.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Evan, thanks for the suggestion. I have to pull some bolts out for modifications. Be interesting to see how they "feel" coming out. I will go with the 40 going back in.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Be sure to use plenty of anti-seize on the threads. Don't use any red or blue Loctite.

 

[BRobertson]

Thanks for the info guys!!!!!!!!!!

I'll be starting the install this week.

The ATS manifold, Espar heater, one more EGT, boost, two fuel pressure gauges, (all Dakota Digital)

Its going to be a busy week!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

 

[dramer]

Originally posted by BRobertson

The instructions that came with my new ATS manifold didn't give torque specs. Can someone out there please advise????

Also where is the spot to tap for pyro???

Thanks very much!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

We use the simple flat washers & Lock washers on the exhaust manafold bolts. This works very well. Also what also works is go down to you local bolt store and pick-up some studs with nuts and lock washers that stops all of the problem. The exhaust manafold coatings works very well to help rust. Hope this helps.



Don

ATS

 

[Don M]

Hey Bob,



I found out that an easy way to assemble this manifold is to freeze the two outer portions of the assembly overnight and when you get ready to piece it together heat the inner piece up with a propane torch slightly where it joins in the knuckle.

It does not take alot of heat with the outer portions frozen and the inner piece expanded from the heat. Slop on a bunch of never-seeze on the joints before you pop them together.

I did not even need a rubber hammer. They just slid together easily. After assembly you can lay it on a flat bench and pound away on it with a rubber mallet to get a good flat mounting alignment.



You have to work fast, as soon as the metal cools on the inner piece, it shrinks back fast.



That never-seeze is nasty stuff, it gets everywhere and is tough to get off surfaces.



You are gonna laugh at the factory manifold after you compare it to the ATS piece. Worlds apart! This thing is a good quality piece and I got it at a killer price to boot.



I like the stud idea myself. I was going to do it as well, but since I am replacing the cylinder head with a Donnelly ported jewel I decided to do it at that time I swap the head.



Don~

 

[QRTRHRS]

Don from ATS,



So, what do you recommend for sloppy bell fittings?

 

[Don M]

Sounds like a replacement or refund is in order to me.



Don~