Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) auto trans band adjustment

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission oil change

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission abs light

Status
Not open for further replies.
Is this as easy as the service manual makes it out to be ( only about a 1/4 page)? Any tips? I got about 10K till I'm due for adjustment and wanted to get a jump on figuring it out.



Also on the front and rear DIfferentials. On going to synth at next change. Does the oil just stay in the differentials or does it fill the actual axles too? Makes a big difference on how much to get. Also is there an alternative to the Mopar Silicone sealer for the differential covers? ( I'm thinking cheaper and better on this one) What is everyone else using.



Thanks as always

J-
 
J-,

Yes, there is oil in the axles. Drain the diff, then jack up one wheel at a time, just a bit, to drain the axle. Refill, run a bit, and top off to proper level. As far as I know, any good silicone sealant should work for the cover.
 
diff. cover sealer

there is a service bulltin from dc which says to use the grey silicone only. i used black and it leaked , switched to grey and no problem. im using synthetic gear lube. hope this helps. :) :) Oo. Oo.
 
If refilling the rear diff, you need to find an empty parking lot and cut a few tight figure 8's after you get done, throw the lube up in the gears higher, especially if you have a factory limited slip gearset. With a Mag-Hytec cover, the built-in o-ring seal is really sweet, so is the drain plug, and the dipstick. Add a Mag-Hytec, and synthetic lube(I use and prefer Amsoil Series 2000 75w-90), and your rear axle assembly is practically worry-free.....
 
Must be a problem with the sealant/synthetic lube... . otherwise shouldn't be a problem. Heck, a seal's a seal in this application... . it isn't like it's a high temp application, right? I've used silicone red, not a problem. . we use blue at work, ... ..... there isn't of a problem with heat, so... . maybe somebody isn't letting the stuff setup a bit before they torque the bolts down! That can make a difference.
 
Bands

Get yourself a good inch lb. torque wrench. I use to use the old Bar style and what a PITA to read that dial under the truck. Bought a new one at sears $70. 00 that made things real easy. My 99 front band is an allen screw although the book states that it's a 5/16 socket. A good way to back off the front one if it is like mine is to wrap some masking tape around the allen adapter to 3/8 ratchet, put a mark on it with pen or magic marker then after torqued back off the appropriate turns 1-7/8 for 99 using the mark as a guide. The rear band was real easy nothing special there. I did let mine drain overnight and still had to keep wiping the valve body to keep the drips to a minimum while adjusting the rear band.
 
If you're going synthetic ask the parts guy for the Mopar orange rtv. I think this is the best stuff you can get your hands on. Might be in the neighborhood of $16. 00 a tube but will do both axles with one tube.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top