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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Auto Transmission upgrades

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I have a 1995 dodge 12 v diesel with 133k and auto transmission. I am towing a 30' 11,000 lb 5th wheel. My goal is to be able to tow this 5th wheel in OD on flat surfaces to save on cost of fuel. Now I have to drive with the OD off and maintain a minimum 1,100 RPM's to keep the torque converter from chattering. I am thinking of going with the ATS stage 2 upgrade that includes the triple lock torque converter and a valve body upgrade. I am also going to have a # 6 fuel plate installed. Is there anything else I should be looking into? Thanks :confused:
 
:) I recently went with the ATS trans. and TC. Also went with the billet input shaft. I went with a #10 plate on a reccomendation from piers since I would be towing. What a difference it made to my truck. I wish I could tell you how it does towing but I sold my old trailer and am waiting on a new 26 ft weekend warrior. But I can tell you this when the trans. goes into lockup you will have a huge smile on your face :D . Those 2 upgrades will work great just make sure you have a set of gauges. If nothing else at the very least a pyrometer.
 
Auto Transmission Upgrade

That sounds like an awesome upgrade. What did it cost you for the transmission and torque converter upgrade?
 
Towing with the OD off is a wise move if you want to save your stock trany. Most don't know that the OD unit is the one that fails most of the time, people just think it was the TQ.

I too looked to ATS to solve my transmission woos, I installed their stage 4 system consisting of the triple lock TQ, new transmission with their up-grades, Valve body and the Commander module to run the show. I would not invest so much in a new transmission system with-out going the distance. Installing a new TQ will only put more strain on the already weak stock trany. The same hold true with the Valve Body, what good does it do anyone to boost line pressure and firm up shifts with a worn-out transmission full of worn out clutches and bands? The hole problem is this chain full of weak links, obviously the real weak link is the transmission (auto or manual) in the Dodge Cummins trucks. And the automatic you have in yours is full of weak links, replacing two does nothing to solve the problem, you need to replace all of the weak links, then you have something. The most overlooked part on the auto's is the Overdrive unit. Save a little longer if you must, but dumping 3 grand in a 6 grand problem solve nothing.
 
You mentioned a couple things that need to be considered aside from getting the trans rebuilt. You noted that you need to maintain 1100 RPM minimum to keep the TC from chattering. 94's and 95's had a problem with the TC locking too soon which would cause a bucking at lower RPMs. Here is a link to the TSB that describes the situation and the repair. Basically you replace the PCM with a different unit that moves the shift point higher. I found a used one and it made a huge difference.



Another thing is that the 160 pumps are a little rough around that RPM. The chattering (bucking) you refer to is typical which is why there was a fix made to the PCM. Reflashing the PCM won't make any difference (I made that mistake). Larger delivery valves (181) will make it better but it's best to avoid that RPM.



If you rev the truck up slowly in neutral you will notice the roughness around 1100 RPM. Try it, I was surprised when I did after owning the truck a couple years.
 
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Extreme1

That is an interesting TSB, wish I had known about it earlier. The early shifting is one problem but the bigger problem for me is that it is not consistent. One time it shifts into OD at about 30 or 35 mph then the next time it has to run up over 50. I sort of think temperature has something to do with it too.

Going to try unplugging the transmission temperature sender and replace it with a resistor.

I made up a sort of "Half Smart" controller that keeps it out of OD and TC lockup until it reaches a given speed. That will help a lot when towing on two lane highways with moderate traffic.

I wish I had known about the PCM replacement. I took mine to the local dealer to have it re programmed but mine is one that can't be changed.

What would be the cost of replacement?
 
Howard, I found a used one for $100. The dealers are proud of this part which controls the alternator output, O/D and lock-up shifts based on TPS reading & RPM and, umm, well it probably tells the motor in the tach how far to make the needle move. It will turn on the check engine light too!



Unfortunately there was an updated flash for my ECM and the dealer put it in for about . 6/hour labor. No shift change. You need the other ECM to move the shift point.



Inconsistant shift points would implicate a worn TPS. Get out the volt meter and see if it is providing the right signal to the ECM. Do a search or look in the FSM for the specs and instructions. It's an easy check.
 
I purchased an upgrade triplelock transmission from ATS in Denver. They now have over $7000. 00 of my money and I still don’t have a transmission that works. I would not drive my truck any further that I am will willing to walk and towing is out of the question. My first transmission from them failed in 3 years and 3 months so I paid for another one, this one only lasted 9 months. It has been back 3 times now (the first time they charged me $237. 00 to replace a speed sensor but that was not the problem) and they still have it. They usually keep you truck for 7-10 days buy you might need to take it back several times for them to get it right. Think hard before going to ATS. They will take your money but turn your truck into a POS!
 
My experience with ATS has been very different.



They installed a new transmission and torque converter for me, including the commander unit. I drove the truck hard with extensive towing. I live in Colorado (Basalt), so this truck gets torture-tested in the mountains.



A couple of months ago, my input shaft broke and left me stranded at a very bad time. I had a job I had to get done and the truck and tool trailer had to be towed to a dodge dealership in Glenwood Springs.



I had elected not to go with the billet input shaft, because I didn't want to spend the extra $700. 00.



I called ATS in Denver and explained my predicament. They sent a truck (4 hr drive) from Denver to pick my truck up at the dealership and they towed it back to their shop. They then replaced the broken input shaft, and they charged me for the part, but not the labor to install it. They also waived the towing charges.



When my wife and I got to ATS, we realized that we'd forgotten to bring along our extra set of keys, and we'd asked the mechanic (Mike) to lock our keys in the glove compartment of the truck.



I went inside and found the owner, Clint, busily working on a new Duramax. I explained our predicament, and he stopped what he was doing to come outside and help us get our truck open and get us back on the road.



I guess bad news always travels faster than good news, because there are a lot of people who won't take the time to tell about the times folks have gone out of their way to help, but they'll always relate the bad things that happen.



There are ALWAYS two sides to every story.



All I know is that ATS has gone above and beyond to help me, and I felt like I had to speak up in their behalf.
 
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