Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Auto: Why would only reverse fail?

[cade]

’96 bone stock. Auto. All the forward gears work and seem to shift ok. For the last couple weeks while in reverse something slips and/or shudders. It has gotten to the point that I almost can’t backup out of a flat parking lot space at the grocery store while in 4 lo. Change the trany oil and filter less then 2000 miles ago. Color and odor where normal and very little “pepper” on the filter.

 

[MrDiesel]

When my wife's Escalade did that I think the transmission shop told me it was a cracked reverse planitary?

 

[DHawk]

Direct Clutch In O/d Is Slipping Due To 830 Pound Spring Broken Or Reverse Servo Or Reverse Band. Put In Man Low When Going Forward And See If It Has Engine Braking. Both Overrunning Clutches Are Ok, Both Frt And Rear And O/d Clutch Are Ok And So Is Frt Band Or 1-4 Gears Would Slip.

 

[cade]

So do I have just the “broken part” fixed or does this require a rebuild?

 

[Joe G.]

It can be fixed by only taking the OD unit off the transmission without removeing the entire transmission from the truck. A shop press is necessary to take the OD unit apart and put it back together.

 

[tp0d]

I would try letting the transmission idle in neutral (NOT park) for about 10-15 secs before backing, to pressurize the fluid in the TC and VB.



Most times reverse is used right after starting, to back out of a parking spot,etc, so you dont have full pressure in the transmission when backing. Idleing it in neutral for that 10secs builds pressure to let the transmission do its thing. . I had the same problem with my stock unit before I had it built up.



good luck.



-j

 

[DHawk]

Joe G. I Don't Know If The Trans Has 23 Miles On It Or 230,000 Miles On It. If It Is The Direct Clutch, Yes You Could Just Removed The O/d And Fix It. If It Is The Reverse Band, The Trans Is Coming Out. If It Is The Rear Servo, You Could Remove The O/d And Get The Low Reverse Pin Out And Get The Servo Out Or Cut The "nub" Off The O/d Housing And Remove The L/r Pin. If You Did That I Would Put A Piece Of Metal Over The Pin When It Goes Back In Like The Kdp Fix. Btw, This Last Repair Is A "hack" But It Works.

 

[Joe G.]

He asked if it required a rebuild. Not necessarily if he is strapped for cash. It will get him back on the road. Best to pull it and do the whole thing, but that is not what he asked.

 

[cade]

I haven’t decided yet if I was going trade this truck off for a current century dually (please, no disrespect to the board members or build this one up. It’s kinda close to want except it’s a 3/4 ton and has 220,000 miles. Once built it will be yanking horse trailers around the US.



If I was going to keep it, it was going to get a full DTT or ATS trany and TQ but I’m not realy in the position to buy one just yet. I am trying to make the most cost effective decision while looking at the big picture. If the trany has to be pulled and I have someone else do it (something like $500 avg just in labor for RR?) ect…. I see a DTT trans in it’s future; and I keep the truck. If it was an easier fix for a couple hundred bucks then I might trade it…as long as that fix doesn’t leave me thinking I just screwed the next guy.