Automatic Trans upgrade options for '90 (3 speed)

[Wwalden]

I'm looking to upgrade my tiring stock 3 speed automatic in my '90 2WD to an OD automatic. Will an automatic from a later model truck bolt up. . and hookup? I can't afford the gear vendors stuff at the moment. . would just like to find a good used stock overdrive transmission.



Thanks



Wes

 

[Thierry]

Best option in the long run is rebuild your 727 and put a gear vendor in I did that with my 89 when we rebuilt it. To rubuild the 727 (dont know about the converter) you are only looking at about 300 in parts plus labor.



Drop me an email, I am using the 618/518 in my Ramcharger conversion, I will not be doing any towing, hope it should last.



Take care

Thierry

Oo.

 

[rowland]

I can be done!

I just recently replaced the 727 in my '89 with a 518 out of a '93 cummins. The tranmision was a direct bolt up to the engine. However be advised that it is 5" longer so it will require some driveline work. (mine was 4 wheel drive so I had to move the transfer case back too).



The overdrive I just hooked up through a switch on the dash.



Total cost, including driveline work and cost of transmision, was $1400. Should be cheeper on a 2WD.



Love the result, I can now cruise at highway speeds w/o having my foot planted on the floor! Heck, I can even pass people now.

 

[Wwalden]

Thanks for the replies...



That is exactly the reason I want to upgrade the transmission NOW. I do mostly interstate driving, and I will be doing quite a bit of towing once the dragways open back up. With the 727, I have to keep her revved up pretty high just to stay with traffic... and passing is quite a task! I hate running constant boost, so I lag behind... ... laaaaag behind. Yeah. . time for an overdrive. Ahhh the simple things in life.



Wes

 

[rowland]

haulin'

I must say that it sure is nice to be able to hold a normal conversation while doing 70 mph. I might even have to install a sound system now that there is a prayer of hearing it!



If you are a fair hand at tinkering the swap should be a reasonable project. Otherwise a competent shop can do it easily. The hard part will be finding a decent used transmission. I got lucky, the transmission shop just happened to have one out of a wrecked '93.



The price I quoted above is actually quite a bit higher than your swap, as it included completely rebuilding the front drive shaft, and buying a used NP 205.



Good Luck!



Isaac Rowland.

 

[Paul Herioux]

I put the 47RH out of a 94 in my 89. The addition of the lockup torque converter is a real plus for fuel economy. Is a bit more expensive though as the adaptor plate and starter nose have to be changed. Search on "47rh installation in the first gen" and you will find my post with all the particulars. If you go this route do not use the stock converter as Chrysler in their infinite cost cutting lack of wisdom used the same converter for the V-10 and the Cummins for a couple of years. Lets just say the stall speed is a little high. Hopefully by next fall I will be able to scrounge up enough cash to give Bill K. a call.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[cerberusiam]

47RH Upgrade

To upgrade to a 47RH in my 92 here is what it will take. New starter and converter adapter. The mounts for the starter are different so you need the new style. The lockup converter sticks out of the front of the trans so you will need that piece. The drive line will need to be shortened 1. 5 inches on mine and probably more on yours. You will need to move the shift linkage mount back about 1. 25 inches to line up properly. The cooler lines are a question at this point but replacing them with the new style would be a good investment. If you don't mind shifting to OD and locking the converter up manually, two toggle switches and a 12v power source is all you need for that part. Now comes the bad news, finding a good trans in a salvage yard is a problem, at least where I am. You will also want to use a 96 or newer trans as the parts are readily available and not as expensive. Chrysler Corp in their infinite wisdom used different parts for the 618 trans and from all accounts as good as unavailable. The 96 and later gas/diesel parts will interchange so there is a bigger supply. Now for the really bad news. I priced everything to put a DTT trans and the parts into my 92, the cost will 4 grand and change. That includes a $400 controller for the lockup as I have the OD already and I don't want my wife towing with my rig and not paying attention to switches and trans temp. On a personal note I would not be without the OD and I really am looking forward to the lockup converter for highway driving and mileage. Good luck.

 

[Wwalden]

Found a transmission....

I found a '96 V10 automatic transmission in a (somewhat) local salvage yard. They are asking $1000. I don't know the milage, I'll give them a call and find out the details. Does this sound reasonable? Apparently it is, from what you guys are saying anything is reasonable if you can even find one.



Which torque converter would you recommend? The stock '96 converter stalls too high? It doesn't sound like *too* much work, I'm always up for some fabrication.



In this case, I would purchase a '96 V10 starter? Where can I obtain a converter adapter?



-New starter

-Converter Adapter

-Shorten driveline

-Move shift linkage

-New cooler lines

-Toggle switches



Thanks for the replies,



Wes

 

[cerberusiam]

Before you buy the V10 transmission make sure it will bolt up to the cummins. My guess would be it will not because the cummins is not a corporate motor however this may not be correct. Cummins will probably be your best bet for a converter adapter and probably cheaper than the Dodge dealer. Same with the starter if cummins handles it. Check and make sure it is the same starter for the gas and diesel in the 96 and up trucks. The converter will have to be a unit for a diesel as the gas ines (what you have now) did not handle the torque well. How you drive the truck and what you use it for will control your choise of converter. Since you are building what sounds like a driver and not a heavy tower I would go with the tightest converter I could get and modify the fueling and turbo system for better throttle response. I would hazard a guess at a 90 or 91 percent converter but that is tight for a diesel so I have been told. The 89% was reccommended and if I didn't like it I could change. I cannot stress enough the matching trans and converter to fueling and turbo setup and use. What works in one application is simply annoying in another. I have seen excessive amounts of money dumped into transmissions and converters and clutches when the problem was fuel and air. It happens the other way also. I have talked to three different sourcers on fuel and three different on transmissions then cross referenced their info with the actual experiences I can find on several forums. IMHO, start with the fuel system and decide what horsepower and torque you want then sit down with a trans builder and explain what you have, what you want and go from there. The tinkering and converting is have the fun with these trucks and the satisfaction of having what practically no else has is the bonus.

 

[83 crew cab]

not sure what year but there is an overdrive cummins trans on ebay last night the bid was $200 its for a 4x4

 

[Paul Herioux]

The Cummins and V-10 bellhousing patterns are the same. In 94 Chrysler used the exact same trans/ torque converter for both applications. You will definetaly want to change out the converter to something with a lower stall speed. The 1000 cocos is a good price if the miliage is below 150K. Make sure the electrical connector sticking up behind the shifter is the oblong three pin and not the round 10(?) pin. If it has a round connector it is a 47RE and you will need a computer to control it. 96 was the split year for these transmissions.

You won't need a complete new starter to fit the new adapter plate. Any decent starter & altenator shop can change out the nose cone on you current starter to convert it to the new style. I found this out 6 months after I dropped $180 for a new starter for mine.

You won't need the new cooler lines either. Just swap the fiiting in your current trans with the ones in the replacement trans. There is enough give in the lines to allow them to bend to make up the extra inch. Been running mine like this for over a year now and no leaks.

Feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions.