Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Automatic won't shift from 2nd & 3rd

[r hancock]

96 3500 4x4 dually x-cab automatic , If I accelerate heavy the trans won't come out of 2nd until I back off the throttle then it shifts into 3rd, but if I accelerate at more normal pace it will shift fine through all gears and it doesn't make a difference if the od switch is on or off. Open for suggestions thanks.

 

[BigPapa]

Hello there r! Welcome to the TDR!



How many miles on your truck? Mine has been diagnosed with a "leaking front lip seal". It doesn't like to shift 2-3 either. Sometimes I can take it to 2500-2600 rpm and it still won't shift. It's a lot worse when it's below 50*. Mine seems to shift better when I accelerate harder. It's got to where sometimes it will actually seem like it's in neutral until you stand on it and then she grabs. The seal leaks line pressure internally, it doesn't leak ATF on the ground.



The whole transmission has to be pulled to fix it, so I'm running it till it quits. Maybe by then I can afford to buy a REAL transmission!

 

[gds3076]

Welcome to the site. you need to fill out your truck profile so that we can see what you have.



I had somthing similiar happen to mine after I had just bought it off of a used car lot. it would'nt shift from 2 nd to 3 rd, mine also would stick in gear (limp mode). Took it to the dealer and it ended up being alot of different things.

1. ) Bad vaccume lines (covered on safty recall)

2. ) Debre getting loos from with in the trans

3. ) Bands needing to be re-adjusted



I had all of these repairs done to my 96 12v and the transmission purrs like a kitten!! I hope this helps and good luck.

 

[PKemp]

R hancock: This is a very familiar problem which cost me a lot of time and considerable cash. I received an extensive education in this matter. Thanks a lot to the help of people from the TDR as well. It would have cost me much more had they not been here.



The most obvious would indeed be the lip seal in your case. However... ... . While your thinking about what to do, pull the temperature sensor connector apart underneath the transmission and clean it out really well. Then pull the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) electrical connector apart and clean it also. Its on the left side of the injector pump on the pivoting shaft that the throttle cables are connected to. Then take some spray cleaner that won't eat plastic and spray the snot out of the TPS at its center shaft while working it back and forth. If you haven't had the bands adjusted have that done as well.

Try this stuff before you have the transmission pulled to change a lip seal. All of these things could contribute to or cause your problem.

Failling all of this and especially if you tow, you can do what many of us have done and replace your dodge transmission with an after-market industrial strength transmission that may very well last forever without these problems. Read the MANY posts in here on this subject.



Keep smiling... . you have the best truck its just a matter of now getting the best info and help.....

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

I showed this thread to Bill and here is what he said. If the problem changes with transmission operating temperature in plain English , if the transmission is at full operating temperature and the problem goes away the hotter the transmission gets , then it is a lipseal problem.



If it operates the same way if the transmission is hot or cold , then it is not a lipseal problem.



If it is a 1996 or later transmission it can be the governor solenoid , a transmission output sensor , and or the kickdown cable. Since it is free to check the kickdown cable adjustment, engine off, transmission in park, have someone step on the throttle all the way to the floor in the cab of the truck, someone underneath on the driver side of the transmission,



under the truck you are watching for the kickdown lever to move every time someone steps on the throttle

have them hold their foot to the floor , from underneath

you should be able to grab the kickdown lever and physically move the kickdown lever approx 1/16th of an inch towards the rear end

By the way , this is assuming that this unit is an oem transmission with an oem vb.

To check your governor solenoid , you need a pressure gauge

if you have one you can call Bill and he can help you diagnose it.

 

[Bob4x4]

Greg,you left out the gov. solenoid that we changed.



Bob

 

[r hancock]

Hey guys I did leave some stuff out, the truck has 113,000 miles I bought the truck used with 65,000 in 1998 and the previous owner had something done to the trans I just don't know what. I've had other ramers drive the truck and they also said the trans has had some work done to it, I'll try all of the suggestions you guys gave me and report back this weekend not enough time during the week to work on it. Thanks again. Rob

 

[gds3076]

Thanks Bob



Forgot about that,



Rob



I see that you live in Lancaster, When I had my problems I was referred to a gent named Bob his sig is Bob4x4. He did all the work on my truck and would trust now one else to touch my truck. You might want to P. M. him and see if you can get in touch. He is very knowledgable and very nice. . Good luck!!



Greg

 

[DavidGardner]

Pay real close attention to what Stephan say"s. Bill is the guru on autos. I should know I have one of his trannys and culdnt be happier. Dont want to start a transmission war here and understand there are other trannys that are excellent too.



Dave Gardner

 

[RVPILOT]

trans shift

Just had mine replaced at D T T, had the same problem at 300,000 miles on a stock trans with a dtt converter and valve body, the rest was stock, you might ask Bill what he found out if he disassembled mine for inspection. I use mine for business so went the whole 9 yards. Stormy

 

[Reb.B]

if you want to get by for a while just throw in 2. 5 pints of brake fluid in the trans and go drive it hard. This will soften the lip seal and it will expand and seal again. when you want it to work right shoot me a PM or email me

 

[r hancock]

Hi Reb, how long should I leave the brake fluid in the trans.

 

[Reb.B]

leave it in at least til your next oil change, 15-25K. I don't advise people to get their transmission hot, but the brake fluid really works after you get the transmission good and hot! It will soften the seals, and keep the pressure in where it should when the line pressure increases. Remember, this is for people with leaking lip seals. I've done this on old trannies a lot, and it has always done a good job.