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Autometer electric fuel pressure guage

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Bullydog Stg 2 Injectors

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Is anyone using an autometer electric fuel pressure guage? If so, how are they? I have the ultralite series and I want to add a 4361. Are the banjo bolts the best place to put the sender or are there other places? How does electric compare to mechanical? I know mech. guages bring the fuel into your cab unless you use a isolater, I was interested in accuracy and speed. Thanks
 
I've got the phantom series 0-15. First sender pooped in about 3 days. Second one is in about a month now. Very nice looking guage, but doesn't have a super reputation for lasting forever. Banjo is the easiest to plug into get a set of Ray's from Geno's Garage they are offered with a 1/8 pipe tap to plug into. Make sure to mount sender away from the pump with a piece of hose. A grease gun hose is the easy way, all you need is a 90 degree 1/8 fitting and a 1/8 coupler. The sender has a 1/8 male on it. I just wrapped a piece of rubber hose around the sender and tie wrapped the whole thing up by the battery.
 
I'm on my third AutoMeter UltraLite sending unit. this one is different, has a brass casing instead of the plastic that the first two had. I like it fine, it's held up for over a month now.

Whatever you do, be sure to mount it remote from the injection pump, to isolate it from engine vibration.
 
remote

What is the reason for mounting the sending unit remotely? Does the injector pump create interference with the sending unit?
 
Re: remote

Originally posted by Chipstien

What is the reason for mounting the sending unit remotely? Does the injector pump create interference with the sending unit?



A lot of us have had problems with the senders when attached directly to the VP44 or filter. We have remotely mounted the sender using a snubber, or piece of fuel hose. The 12V's have had more problems with this because their mechanical injector pump pulses a lot more then the 24V's, and their fuel pressure to the injector is higher. Have fun... :D
 
Could someone post pictures of there sending unit so I can get an idea how to do it? Going to order the guage today. Thanks for the posts. :)
 
I've got the autometer 4361. It is a top quality gauge and mine came with the plastic sender which has been trouble free if mounted properly. Order one of Ray's tapped banjo bolts from Geno's and mount the sender remotely using a rubber grease gun hose. Replace the banjo at the bottom of the fuel filter. Make sure that you get a good quality grease hose with tapered NPT fittings as some aren't tapered and will not tighten properly. I made a custom bracket to mount to the brake master cylinder stud. I only needed the 1 foot grease hose but this seems to properly dampen the water-hammer from the injection pump.
 
Dakota digital

Is anyone running the Dakota digital fuel pressure gauge? How's it working out?

3dracer: I too am an amateur machinist. I think I'm going to make my own banjo fitting taps. I had ordered some from Geno's, but they are on back order. While I'm at it I'm going to bore them out larger also.
 
3dracer, I'm not even a machinist and have been tapping banjo bolts for years. On a 1-10 scale of difficulty I'd give it a 2. Drill press and vice are in order.
 
3dracer-

I originally tapped my stock banjo bolt but there was only enough material to accomidate a 1/16" NPT fitting. I drove with this for several weeks but later switched to one of Ray's banjo's because I was afraid the the smaller fitting was too delicate (it's usually used in nitrous applications). Sure enough I broke it off when I was taking it out. If you have the correct stock material, then you could build your own banjo as Ray has done. For me the cost was right for just ordering Ray's (he use to sell them direct, which was much cheaper).



Illflem-

I am really curious how you are tapping your banjo's. I even went out and looked at the stock one's and there just doesn't seem to be enough material to accomidate an 1/8" thread. Did I miss something?
 
Originally posted by dresslered

... Sure enough I broke it off when I was taking it out. If you have the correct stock material, then you could build your own banjo as Ray has done. For me the cost was right for just ordering Ray's (he use to sell them direct, which was much cheaper)... .




I like to work on my truck, but sometimes it just isn't worth it to "do it yourself. " Ray makes his banjo bolts out of zinc plated steel. When you drill your own, you take the chance of it breaking off when installing or removing, as indicated above. Just dosen't seem worth the trouble just to save $33 for a full set of replacement bolts... JMHO... :D
 
Originally posted by dresslered



Illflem-

I am really curious how you are tapping your banjo's. I even went out and looked at the stock one's and there just doesn't seem to be enough material to accomidate an 1/8" thread. Did I miss something?
I drill from the threaded end, keeps the hole straight. The correct bit for a 1/8 tap is about 1/64 too big for the factory hole, but I use it anyways, bores out the passage a little. Plenty of meat left.
 
Todd, they are threaded at 1/8 NPT (the tapped fittings).

3dracer, Yes, it's possible to hook a hose to the schraeder fitting on the injection pump, I have JIC stem hydraulic fittings in stock for exactly that kind of thing, you only need to remove the valve core before attaching the fitting. But it's easier and better to go with Ray T's banjo bolts.
 
Does Ray's just have more meat on the non-threaded end? I have not really looked yet (too cold) at them to know what they look like.
 
They're definitely stronger, and meatier :D, 3dracer. For that price, they are a must-have. Knowing machine tooling like I do, I'm impressed at the quality.
 
I have the Ultra-lite 4361 for over a year, and have had not problems at all. Great gauges!



I was fortunate, I had a 99 and my sender screwed right into the top of the fuel filter housing.
 
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