Auxiliary Fuel Tank

[Clayboy]

I am in the process of purchasing an auxiliary tank for my 91. 5. This tank will be an in-bed type, and I don't want to use it as a transfer type tank, but would like it to gravity feed my main tank - is this possible? I think as long as the gas cap is non-venting, it can be done - I would just need to plumb a line from the auxiliary to the filler pipe.

I would like to hear about the experiences of others and if there is anything inparticular I need to do/be aware of. Thank you in advance.

 

[Bill Stockard]

I had an in-bed auxiliary fuel tank in my former '92 D350. I used a Pollak motorized fuel valve to switch tanks.

Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve on Pollak

The auxiliary tank a had fuel gauge sending unit in it and the motorized valve would also switch the gauges so I could keep up with the fuel in which tank I was drawing fuel from. The fuel tank control switch was mounted on the dash. I used it for nearly 100k miles without a problem.



Bill

 

[Grizzly]

Clayboy, I'm considering this tank from www.auxtank.com. They have some very nice tanks, which are manufactures near Dalles, Texas. Their tanks are set up so that you can switch from auxiliary to OEM tank as you want. It also reads the fuel level of the tank you're using. Their auxiliary fuel tanks have there own fuel pump, so they each work independently and do not transfer from one to the other. Also DOT compliant.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I've got a 45 Gal in bed fuel tank that gives me a 1000 mile plus range non-towing and a full day, at least, towing. I used two manual valves mounted right next to the drivers seat to switch on the fly. I decided on manual valves instead of electric due to an electric valve that left me stranded on my old '79 Dodge van. The fuel gauge switched over but the tanks did not - had to have the van towed home. I switch the fuel guage electrically. This setup has worked quite well for almost 10 years.



Bob

 

[Bill Stockard]

Clayboy, I'm considering this tank from www.auxtank.com. They have some very nice tanks, which are manufactures near Dalles, Texas. Their tanks are set up so that you can switch from auxiliary to OEM tank as you want. It also reads the fuel level of the tank you're using. Their auxiliary fuel tanks have there own fuel pump, so they each work independently and do not transfer from one to the other. Also DOT compliant.

My aluminum fuel tank was 45 gallons and custom built to fit between my existing tool box and the front of the truck bed by their predecessor. I used it on my '92 D350, a '97 3500, and a '00 3500 for a total of nearly 300k miles. When I sold our fifth wheel, I sold the tank to another TDR member who is still using it. The only problem I ever had with motorized valve was when the ground wire came loose under the dash on the '00 3500 and it worked intermittently a couple of times until I discovered the problem.



Bill

 

[CKelley1]

clayboy what you want to do works perfectly. have many of them in use. weld a fitting on the bottom of the tank and drill a 1/4" hole through the tank. next drill a hole in the bed for the fitting to go through. next a ball valve, next a sediment bowl filter, next a 2 micron filter then to the filler neck tube

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[Mikey-KE7LBB]

Several years ago, I had an aux tank plumbed into my '93 D-250 (RIP :{) that siphoned over the top to fill the tank as I drove, but I had a problem with the factory tank vent that ended up leaving my driveway flooded with enough diesel to require 2 bags of floor dry to sop up the mess!!



There was a plus to this though... I haven't seen a single weed pop up through one of the cracks for almost a decade :-laf:-laf



I ended up adding a ball valve inline to prevent it from happening again.

 

[Grizzly]

My aluminum fuel tank was 45 gallons and custom built to fit between my existing tool box and the front of the truck bed by their predecessor. I used it on my '92 D350, a '97 3500, and a '00 3500 for a total of nearly 300k miles. When I sold our fifth wheel, I sold the tank to another TDR member who is still using it. The only problem I ever had with motorized valve was when the ground wire came loose under the dash on the '00 3500 and it worked intermittently a couple of times until I discovered the problem.



Bill

What brand of tank was that Bill?

 

[Bill Stockard]

What brand of tank was that Bill?

I don't remember excatly, something like RV Auxiliary Tanks. They were located in Farmers Branch, a Dallas suburb just north of Dallas. They closed down when the Dallas Transit Authority bought the land where their shop and warehouse was located for the commuter rail and a passenger station.



Bill

 

[Bill Stockard]

Several years ago, I had an aux tank plumbed into my '93 D-250 (RIP :{) that siphoned over the top to fill the tank as I drove, but I had a problem with the factory tank vent that ended up leaving my driveway flooded with enough diesel to require 2 bags of floor dry to sop up the mess!!



There was a plus to this though... I haven't seen a single weed pop up through one of the cracks for almost a decade :-laf:-laf



I ended up adding a ball valve inline to prevent it from happening again.

Yep, I had a similar problem back during the gasoline shortages in the '70s. I had a gasoline Chevy pickup with a tank in the bed and used a manual valve to feed the main tank. When the main tank would fill I would turn it off. One day while towing our Airstream, I forgot to keep checking the gauge. I looked back and could see gasoline blowing along the side of the trailer. It scared the h*** out of me. As soon as I got home I took the whole mess out of the truck and never tried that again. All that could have happened is the flame in the fridge ignite the gasoline and I would have had a major conflagration.



Bill

 

[Clayboy]

Thank you!

 

[Clayboy]

Thank you, I will check them out.

 

[Clayboy]

Good recommendation and I will keep that in mind when I decide which route to go.

 

[Clayboy]

clayboy what you want to do works perfectly. have many of them in use. weld a fitting on the bottom of the tank and drill a 1/4" hole through the tank. next drill a hole in the bed for the fitting to go through. next a ball valve, next a sediment bowl filter, next a 2 micron filter then to the filler neck tube

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Thank you very much, did not even think about the filter - very smart. I am a visual learner so the pix are appreciated.

 

[Clayboy]

Several years ago, I had an aux tank plumbed into my '93 D-250 (RIP :{) that siphoned over the top to fill the tank as I drove, but I had a problem with the factory tank vent that ended up leaving my driveway flooded with enough diesel to require 2 bags of floor dry to sop up the mess!!



There was a plus to this though... I haven't seen a single weed pop up through one of the cracks for almost a decade :-laf:-laf



I ended up adding a ball valve inline to prevent it from happening again.

Good recommendations.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Aside from the excellent suggestions above, I'd like to suggest a decent source for fuel tanks in my area, a bit cheaper than many others, Northern Tool. They have quite a few different tanks available.

Auxiliary-Transfer Tank + Toolbox Combos | Auxiliary, Transfer, + Skid Tanks | Fuel Transfer + Lubrication | Northern Tool + Equipment



They also have a gravity fill tank kit which comes with a shut off ball if it is left on and over fills... ... RDS Diesel Install Kit for Auxiliary Diesel Fuel Tank — Fits 1999-Current Ford, Dodge and 2011 Chevrolet and GMC Trucks, Model# 011025 | Auxiliary-Transfer Tank Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment



I've used RDS tanks for almost ten years, and had little complaints with them. They tend to change up periodically, without telling me, which can be irritating when I'm installing guages and such, but that's to be expected these days, I guess. All and all, I've found I can get their tanks cheaper, and do just as good an install as higher end tanks found elsewhere. Great for people who want to do it themselves, too..... Oh, and they're USA made, too!!

 

[RSchwarzli]

clayboy what you want to do works perfectly. have many of them in use. weld a fitting on the bottom of the tank and drill a 1/4" hole through the tank. next drill a hole in the bed for the fitting to go through. next a ball valve, next a sediment bowl filter, next a 2 micron filter then to the filler neck tube

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Nice rig there CK! Oo.



My 1990 ran with a in bed gravity feed with a manual ball valve just to the left of the seat. Worked well for 12 years.