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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axel Nuts

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake and ABS?

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I have a 1997 Dodge 3/4 ton, 4X4 with the Cummins Diesel. I realize this question is specifically about the Power train, but I'm obsessed with removing both front axle nuts off my truck to have the rotors turned. I realize the rotors can be turned while on the vehicle, but thats too easy. I already tried all the true and tested remedies for removing these nuts. It should be noted the truck has the sealed bearings which are pressed together with the rotor. These babies are on there good. Any suggestions. I have been advised this is common problem for dodge trucks with this type of arrangement and I should take it to a good brake shop. Suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Ron:(
 
Sometimes after penetrating oil and some hammer blows don't work it's better to take it to a pro if you don't feel qualified or don't have the tools to do the job. Many times torqueing on the nut strips the axle threads - time for a new axle. Heat is the best way but you have to be careful of the surrounding parts. What I've done a couple times is turn a stick arc welder way up and stick the welding rod to the nut, only takes a second for the nut get real hot then come off easily with no damage. If you use this method the ground clamp must be on the axle or nut otherwise you may arc the bearings.

The nut is just the first step in removing the rotor, many times the axle is stuck inside the bearing just as bad.
 
I used a 3/4" drive socket (Chinise) , the 3 foot long socket wrench and a 4 foot jack handle as a breaker bar. I put almost all my weight on it to loosen it. It had to have 400+ ft lbs torque.
 
I used a propane torch to heat (only) the axle nut after penetrating oil didn't seem to work. Heat and my 2' long Snap-On breaker bar prevailed again! :D



BTW, I purchased new axle nuts from the dealer prior to re-installing the rotors and hub/bearing assemblies.
 
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