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Rear Axle Question-

It's time to replace hub seals on my 96 2500, what size and type tool is required to remove the axle bearing nuts? Also, how are the nut lock pins removed- do these pull straight out?

Thanks
 
The nut is a 2 9/16..... I think:eek: :eek: . It can be had at any tool supply house or good parts house. It may say feRd on the package but it is the same, mine did anyway. Sorry not more specific on size..... I am at work and my Tool box is not avaliable. The small clips pull right out... . no problem. Good Idea to replace since they are cheap.



Good Luck... .
 
when you install the new seals put a thin coating of silicone gasket maker on the outer edge of seal where it goes into the hub. lots of leaks are from this area if the hub is not machined real smooth---Sam
 
Rear Axle nut lock clips

Definitely replace clips (mopar 4797126), broke one getting it out. buy axle lip seal from napa (28746). Half as much as for mopar and it is made by the same people. I replaced the outer gasket as well. They are a crush style gasket (mopar 4384186). Total outlay less than $20.
 
lock nut

I have seen the retaining pin come out and the hub wiped the threads on the end of the axle housing. My father made a jig to bolt on the end of the housing after I cut and beveled the end housing to welded on the new (stub) threads. 6010 root, 7018 fill and cap. I would either replace the pin and nut ,which is 2. 550 from flat to flat,or replace it with a spicer lock nuts and the center lock plate like the earler designs. The part # for spicer 621028, 621027,660568 I think, or that is what was told to me.

I made my socket to remove the nut but I would buy it If I had it to do over. Also I would check the check on the vent as If the check is stoped up then the pressure can cause the seals to leak when the air in the housing expands when it heats up.
 
Socket size for axle nut

I just changed my seals and installed the Mag cover this last weekend.



Dodge said the axle nut is 2 1/2 " which I believe is right. I bought the 2 9/16 which had a lot of play, but still worked.
 
My socket is 2 9/16" KD Tools and it is a "special" socket for the Dana Axle, at least the KD Tools catalog listed a 2 9/16" socket and a 2 9/16" Dana socket. Mine has some play, but works well. Maybe a regular 2 9/16" socket would have more play :confused:
 
Cooker has the right idea. I use the KD socket as well. I'm sorry I don't remember the part number. It was less than $25 from Napa, the Snap-on's etc. are manu. by KD as well.



I regular 3/4" drive socket in 2 1/2" or 2 9/16" won't work. The "conventional" socket's walls are too thick to fit between the axle housing and and hub. The nut has "rounded" edges. Good luck.
 
What to do if you don't have a socket

When I pulled my right rear wheel off to fix the axle leak, I realized that I didn't have a socket to fit the nut. Well, luckly, I was working on it over at my Dad's house (retired mechanic) and he preceeded to remove the nut with a hammer and a punch. It was re-installed the same way. Just wanted to let everyone know what to do if you are caught without a socket. Also, I did buy a socket from NAPA for the next time.



Later,

Tim
 
Tim:



Recheck your axle nut to assure that the bearing isn't too tight. Tighten with the locknut socket to 105 lb. ft then back the nut off 1/8 of a turn.







:)
 
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