2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle nut on dana 80

[McCRam]

Does anyone know what size of socket it takes to remove the axle nut on a dana 80. I don't want to take the wheel off just to find this out. I need to replace the seal, and the haynes I have is not very descriptive. thanks

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

Unless I'm not understanding want you want, can't you just take the center cap (hub cap) off and be looking at the end of the axle and the bolts holding it in place?

 

[TEaton]

McCram,

Just replaced a rear axle seal and it was a 2 9/16". Got one from a local auto parts for about $15. 00 but it was 3/4" drive.

Troy

 

[Cooker]

It is important to note that it is a 2 9/16" Dana axle nut socket. It has rounded edges. I don't think a standard 2 9/16" will fit.

 

[McCRam]

Thanks, that is what I needed. Hopefully, I can find one with a 1/2 in drive.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Get a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer.



Tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs, then back it off 1/8th turn and install the retainer clip, in the soft teflon "seal: on the "hub nut", get a new one from Dodge as the old one may not be re-usable, sorry I don't have the part number handy for the aforementioned "KD" socket or the clip.



Andy

 

[pepecat]

Axle NUT Availability from FORD

Hi, I was looking all over the place for on of these DANA Nylock nuts and the Dodge dealerships had them for 30+ dollars and out of stock. So I remembered that ford used Dana Axles and got one there after lobbying with teh parts guy for a while we found it for only 20 or so dollars!

It is Ford Part # D5UZ-4255-A

good luck

 

[RT66DOC]

FWIW - You can get a whole kit for the rear axle seal repair from TDR advertiser QUAD 4x4 - Dan the Gearman, I think. Includes all parts and upgraded double nut (something like that) which eliminates the nylock thingy and is reusable. Also includes the axle nut socket -1/2" drive - and complete instructions - maybe a video. I thought the price was very reasonable plus free shipping. Check the link to their website for exact price.



NB - No affiliation with QUAD 4x4, just impressed with quality, service, and Dan's TDR articles.

 

[CumminsPuller]

Hope I am not hijacking this thread ...

On sunday I was driving home and heard a lound screech from the rear. I got home and the left rear smelled like it was burning. Loosened the lug nuts, jacked it up, pulled the first tire off, grabed the second and the whole axle came out. Drum, hub and everything. My outer bearing disinegrated. This made the axle ride on the top inside of the axle housing. The axle nut and outer race were galded to the housing. Got out the torch and cut the nut and race off. Tried cleaning up the threads with a thread file, but the nut would still not go on. Looking closer the axle housing had become egg shaped. So today going to have to try and heat it up and get it back round again.



The hub was toast. Put in the new outer race and it just spun freely inside. Ordered a new hub from O'Reiley ($226. 00).



My question: Is the axle housing going to be ok if we get it back round again? Am I going to need a whole new Dana 80?



Someone posted above about double nutting the axle nut. What would be the advantages to this?



Jason

 

[RT66DOC]

Jason



It's not double nutting the axle nut itself, the double nuts go over the seal to eliminate the single nut with the nylock thing. Axle nut goes on last as usual. Check it out on the QUAD 4x4 website. There's a good description of how it works.



BTW, I would guess - the rounder the better.

 

[CumminsPuller]

Originally posted by RT66DOC

Jason

BTW, I would guess - the rounder the better.

I will look at it. I would imagine the rounder the better. But I was more curious about the integrity of the axle after heating it up and trying to get some of the egg shape out of it.



Jason

 

[RT66DOC]

Ahhh, any metallurgists out there in TDR land?

 

[CumminsPuller]

The actual axle housing, is that a two inch machine thread?



Jason

 

[SMorneau]

There is a guy here locally who will come out to where you are, cut off the damaged axle tube, and weld a new stub onto your axle tube. From what I heard he was damn reasonable. I have been told this is common practice with over the road trucks. You may want to make a few phone calls to local truck support places this guy can't be the only one who does this.

 

[CumminsPuller]

Wow... ..... I did make some phone calls today and I can get it fixed for about $600. 00... ... ... Got to remove it from the truck and take it to the machine shop. They cut it back by the backing plate and and machine a new stub and then reinstall with some kiind of sleeve and weld it up.



Jason

 

[BennyHL]

Originally posted by CumminsPuller

Wow... ..... I did make some phone calls today and I can get it fixed for about $600. 00... ... ... Got to remove it from the truck and take it to the machine shop. They cut it back by the backing plate and and machine a new stub and then reinstall with some kiind of sleeve and weld it up.



Jason

I would think you could find an axle shop that could remove that side axle tube and press in a new one for less than $600.



I think there are 2 lessons to be learned from this.

1. Make it a point to check on those bearings every now and again.

2. When it goes as bad as it did, stop driving. At least you could've possibly saved your axle tube.



Sorry for the tough luck. It's gonna be a fairly pricey fix once it's all said and done.

 

[CumminsPuller]

I was under the impression that it was all one piece. What part is pressed together?



Jason

 

[Josparkz]

I had a wheel bearing melt down on a Chev. many years ago. It turned the spindle blue. I found a rearend in a bone yard.

Reminds me to pack the wheel bearings.

 

[BennyHL]

Originally posted by CumminsPuller

I was under the impression that it was all one piece. What part is pressed together?



Jason

Are you talking of the axle housing? It is not one piece. It's a nodular iron center section with both axle tubes pressed in and rosette welded in a couple spots. Best axle design, imho.