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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle Nut Socket Help

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I have all the parts to do both wheel bearing/hub assemblies, plus all 4 ball joints. Here's the problem, I bought a 12 point 1 11/16" socket for axle nut, but evidently it requires a 6 point socket.



I have called dozens of parts stores, tools supply, rental stores, etc. from southern maryland up to Baltimore and no one carries it.



Does anyone know what chains normally carry it or any help on where to buy/rent/borrow one in Maryland?



The left wheel bearing is making so much noise/vibration that I am afraid to drive it the 100 miles a day back and forth to work if I have to order the socket online and wait for it to be shipped.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.



David



PS I ordered the hub/bearing assemblies from a link I found on here to KSCDirect.com for $196 each. Ground shipping would have been $14. 00, but I paid $50 to get then 2-day air. I used napaonline to find the part number and then search for it on KSC since they don't have an application guide.

CR BR930203 - BR930203 SKF BRANDED HUB UNITS from KSCdirect: MRO Superstore
 
Try Napa. They could order only a 1 inch drive and it cost $40 so I got one from work.



I am doing my front rotors now. I finished the right side and am on to the left. The Axle nut was my worst nightmare. I spent 3 hours banging on it and snapped a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter in half. I used lots of PB blaster rust lube every 10 min.



I used my 600 ft-lb (with 4 ft+ bar) torque wrench and was measuring 500 ft-lbs when the adapter snapped. I had a 6 foot breaker bar on my 1/2 inch ratchet and was standing on it and it would not budge. I hit it with my 600 ft-lb air impact wrench many... ,many... many times and it still resisted.



I finally gently used heat from a MAPP propane bottle (I had used for heating plumbing fittings to solder copper fittings) and hit it more with the air 600 ft-lb impact wrench while it was hot and it gave way. I've heard the factory uses locktite on it and combined with a little rust it is frozen on.



The nut is standard type not left hand threads so loosen counter-cw. I used a 4 foot pipe wedged between the hub bolts and other end on the ground to keep the hub from turning.



For the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle you must use 12 pt only 9/16 socket. The hub came off with a smack of the 3 lb hammer. Be carefull with the axle shaft because it will pull all the way out when you pull out the hub/rotor. Don't ask me how I know. It helps to have someone hold the axle while you do this - trust me on this.



Also, if you replace the rotors with drilled and/or slotted rotors they are directional so there is a left and right. Don't put the left rotor on the right side and when its all done realize you have to dissamble everything and start over. Don't ask me how I know this... . Please!



Dave
 
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It shouldn't take alot of effort to remove the nut if it's pretreated with PB Blaster or like penetration agent. We struggled with friends 99' CTD 4x4 passenger side. After switching to Air tools and spraying lots of PB Blaster the nut came off no problem. Bought the socket at local small time tool supply place. I think it cost $25.
 
I used a 12-point on mine. Had to buy a cheapie from the local parts store. I hit it with the impact as little as possible, all the while praying it would live. Survived the job twice to my surprise and elation. If you pull the axles your just about guaranteed that you'll have to do axle seals too with this job.
 
Regarding use of impact on non designed impact sockets, regular sockets can shatter and pieces fly like a bullet, plus as sharp as shrapnel. Nothing implied just a note.
 
Thanks for the replies. I thought I found the socket at a parts store 45 minutes away, but after I got there, they were wrong. I checked three other parts stores, but to no avail.



I just got home after several hours of driving around to various parts/hardware stores and saw the replies that the 12 point socket should work. It ends up the socket was trying to line up with the grooves in the castle nut and the rust on the nut made it seem like it wouldn't fit.



After several taps with the rubber mallet, the socket went on. One more blast of penetrating oil and a few blasts with the impact and the nuts both came off.



Thanks again for the help.
 
Regarding use of impact on non designed impact sockets, regular sockets can shatter and pieces fly like a bullet, plus as sharp as shrapnel. Nothing implied just a note.

Yes, that's why my fingers were crossed and I was praying the whole time the impact was hooked to that socket.
 
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