Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) B&M drain plug and fluid change

[REC]

I am getting ready to install a B&M drain plug and change the fluid in my 2001. Any advise on both procedures would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[bcbigfoot]

I did this last oil change and love it, oil changes are a breeze and very little mess with a plug in the bottom. I was told by a trans. shop not to use the B&M plug they had problems with leaks, so I didn't use the one I had bought. I cut a 1/4 female union in half and brassed that to the bottom of the pan.

 

[Bill Stockard]

I did this last oil change and love it, oil changes are a breeze and very little mess with a plug in the bottom. I was told by a trans. shop not to use the B&M plug they had problems with leaks, so I didn't use the one I had bought. I cut a 1/4 female union in half and brassed that to the bottom of the pan.

Years ago, I installed a B&M drain plug in a Chevy with a TH400 and had a leaking problem. I removed it and brazed a 1/4" union in the pan and as posted above. It worked leak free for nearly 300K miles.



Bill

 

[mitchC]

I put them in two rigs and threw away the plastic washer and braised them. They work just great and no leaks.

mitch

 

[JohnBoy5]

i am guessing that you are talking about the trans? how do you plan to get the rest of the fluid out in the t/c and the cooling lines? mainly the t/c?

 

[mitchC]

I only change the oil in the pan and the filter.

Mitch

 

[REC]

Changing just the oil in the pan is my plan. It has been suggested to me to repeat the pan change after a week of so of driving and that should change enough fluid to be acceptable.

 

[JohnBoy5]

hmm i am not sure i go along with that. because the bad fluid blends with the new. before i had my goerend trans built i went to the dealership and let them good that machine up and to a full flush and filter change with band adjustments. now that i have the goerend trans i can drain the t/c and pan and replace the filter. so i maybe have 1 qt left in the lines. out of the 22 qts i put in i dont think that small amount will hurt.

 

[rluft]

I installed mine on back of the pan so that it wouldn't be exposed to damage from rocks or brush hitting it. I figured, due to the nut, the pan wouldn't drain all the way if installed on the bottom. It leaked a little at first but I got it tightened up to not leak at all. I change the fluid every 15-20k miles for 140k until I had it rebuilt, personally I don't think it is necessary to get all the fluid outif you change the pan fluid frequently, if the fluid is that dirty you have bigger problems. Got a Mag/hytek pan now.

 

[JMcCoy]

My B&M drain plug was garbage. It always leaked from the drain o-ring. When my CAD failed in some muck, the truck sank down to the drain plug. Water entered the pan and ruined my transmission. A $250 Mag-Hytec sounds cheap in comparison. The problem with mine was the little o-ring would stretch around the nut instead of squishing. Like stated before, brazing a nut on the inside would be much better. My new $5000. 00 transmission came with a pan and drain plug. Self-correcting problem, I guess. LOL



As for fluid changes, I would just drain the fluid more often. Every 15,000, I would just drain and fill. Every 30,000, I would drop the pan, replace the filter, and clean the magnet I put installed. Your intervals will vary depending on how hard you work your truck. If you wait until the fluid is bad, it is too late and you need a total flush. This is just how I do it. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[Road Dog]

I just did a total change.
- disconnect the return line and add some [1" ID clear vinyl] tubing to direct the flow
- start the engine, shift to N and wait for the fluid to stop
- stop the engine
- drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnet and adjust the bands.
- replace the pan, fill with 4-6 L transmission fluid, start the engine, shift to N and wait for the fluid to stop
- repeat until clean fluid comes out (about 14 L)
- reconnect the return line
- adjust the fluid level based on temperature and then check after everything is hot.

 

[JohnBoy5]

I just did a total change.

- disconnect the return line and add some [1" ID clear vinyl] tubing to direct the flow

- start the engine, shift to N and wait for the fluid to stop

- stop the engine

- drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnet and adjust the bands.

- replace the pan, fill with 4-6 L transmission fluid, start the engine, shift to N and wait for the fluid to stop

- repeat until clean fluid comes out (about 14 L)

- reconnect the return line

- adjust the fluid level based on temperature and then check after everything is hot.

I am not sure letting it run till fluid stops is a good idea. i have seen guys with 2 5 gal buckets one full of new clean fluid and the other empty ready to catch the old. hook the clean fluid bucket to the suction side where to cooler line and attach a hose to the discharge on the trans to catch the old. when done like this it will flush the pan, the lines and all. then change your filter. you may want to change the filter at a different point if you chose.