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B1 Shootout: KSB1B vs. KSB1 vs. B1B vs. Full B1

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Frantz in a Toyota Sequoia

Which air intake system?

Ok, what's the rank order of of B1s from fastest to slowest spooling? I am under the impression that it's:



KSB1B- super duper fast, but chokes after 425hp or so

KSB1- not quite as fast, but has longer legs to 450hp.

B1B- a little slower still, but will cool 475hp and pull hard

B1- SLOOOW but handles a LOT of fuel and will cool 500hp.



How big of a spoolup difference is there from one flavor to another? Which plays a bigger role in spoolup, housing size or wheel size? (the above assumes wheel size is a much subtler change than housing size).



Has anyone changed from one variant to another and found what you were looking for? Can you swap housings like you can on a Holset? For example, if you get a B1B and decide it's too slow, can you just swap housings to get a KSB1B?



I've determined that a B1 is the single charger for me, but I'm not sure which flavor just yet. Right now, I'm leaning towards a B1B. R. ebel puts down 500+hp with his, and it's got enough spoolup to tow in the Rockies at high elevation.



Any inputs from the peanut gallery?



Justin
 
The Steroid B1 is not a player in my world. It's a class-pulling turbo for guys who HAVE to use a single, imho. It's clearly targeted for a range of folks who would be much better off with twins, imho, but can't twins their trucks (rules say no).



As I understand it, the B1-2 and the B1B are one and the same. The -2 indicates the smaller turbine wheel.



I think B1s are so confusing because there are so many different terms in addition to so many variants! SHEESH!



In addition to the different COMBINATIONS of parts, you have the different parts themselves-- smaller wheels, the "tow" anti-surge compressor, etc etc.



Justin
 
Good question. Assuming a 16cm housing, I think the B1B is considered nearly as fast as an HX40, with the KS versions being a little quicker, and the ksb1b being hx-35/12 class.



Can anyone confirm this?



Justin
 
there was somone who used a stock turbo and put down 450hp i am sure he was hot though. my guess is a ksb-1 would be the route. do you really plan on using all 500hp while towing something? i would rather go with s/ a little to small than get s/m to big and laggy. laggy trucks are no fun. when you get over 500hp and want to use it towing all of the time you need twins. a simple wastgated set up with hx35/14 with ht3b is easy to set up i bet for a little over the cost of a b1 you could get a piers modded ht3b open throat 26 with a $350 wastegate and stock turbo and have a great towing set up. if you tq down your head bolts past factory spec (not sure how much) you can hold 50lbs which is enough to get you towing at 500hp and still be at or close to 1300. IMHO never done this just from what i have seen if i am wrong someone correct me. JIM F?
 
Cat, I think you're right on.



But I personally can't twin my truck just yet (as much as I wish to). Maybe by summer's end.



I'll stud the head with Don M's head studs if I push it past 45psi. Over-torquing the stock bolts is a dangerous stopgap, and I'm not going to tempt fate-- I'm going to do it right if I do it.



So has anyone changed from one flavor of B1 to another? What differences were noted?



I'm hearing conflicting things. On one hand, people are saying not to go with a full B1 unless you have a lot of fuel. On the other, some folks are running a full B1 on mostly stock 1s gen trucks and love it.



Who's telling the truth?



Justin
 
Justin ... I'm not, but for sure there is altitude in the equation. Where the full B1 is perfect on a given truck @ low elevation, move up to 3 or 4 kilo' & a -2 or different is needed.
 
Overtorquing the stock head bolts stretches the bolt and actually weakens the head to block connection. Best thing to do is change out to 12mm studs. Which should hold 50-55 with stock head gasket. I don't believe the hp differences between the B1 series is as great as listed above. Taking into consideration all other parts being equal I don't believe you will see more than 20-25hp difference between the best and the worst. Alot of factors effect air temp so as I said all other parts being equal.
 
Is the KSB-1-b the same as a KSB-1-2? So does anyone know if the KSB-1 or the KSB-1-2 spool the same as a PDR-40? Still nobody with any experience, (sorry Hohn;) ) has answered that question... ... surely somebody must know that has gone from one to the other.
 
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Chip, I think you're correct that the -2 and small wheel "b" are synonymous.



Alas, I hope to rectify the experience part as soon as we get this whole B1 thing straightened out... .



Justin
 
Now if I remember correctly it has been awhile since I have messed with my truck due to the busy season. My KSB1 is big wheel smaller housing then the standard B1. The KSB-1 is supposed to spool like the mod HX-40 . There where only the two versions when i got mine so life was easy!



B-1 Bomber - Mid to High HP w/manual trans.



B-1-2 Mid to High HP faster spool up than B-1



B-1-EX3 - Same as B-1 with HX35 outlet



B-1-EX4 - Same as B-1 with HX40outlet



KSB-1 Bomber - Mid to High HP w/faster spool up than the B-1-2



KSB-1-2 - Very fast spool up. High Altitude, Automatic Transmission



KSB-1-EX4 - Same as KSB-1 with HX40 outlet



KSB-1-2-EX4 - Same as KSB-1-2 with HX40 outlet

Steriod B-1 - High Performance - Not recommended for Daily Driving
 
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