Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Back in the game

[phantomusa]

I use to be a member many moons ago when I had my 95 3500 and a jam up 12 valve Cummins did writeups about the KDP after many years of service my baby retired with 600000 miles on her last year and after being without a Dodge for a year I'm back
Now I've got a 2002 2500 with a 5 speed manual and of course I'm concerned about items that mite need repair/replacement before I'm sittin along side the road ???
To start with I know about low fuel pressure ? What about the 5th gear nut is it something that needs fixin ?
I've ordered a replacement dash cover already
I would like a little more horsepower can I get more with just injectors I really don't want to install a programmer box I only want 75 hp more and prefer to keep the motor a virgin. ..I do have a BHAF and I'm going to do the 4" straight pipe from turbo back trick
Any input about more possible problems that need looking at will be appreciated
I pull trailers a 44 ft enclosed car hauler GVW 18000 lbs and a open equipment trailer GVW 21000 lbs these trailers get put on my Dodge twice a week so I'm pulling trailers about 50% of the time
Pappy

 

[DonFitzwater]

"What about the 5th gear nut is it something that needs fixin ?"

Darn right. Especially if you tow. Standard Transmission and gear in Fort Worth, Tx has a complete upgraded mainshaft assembly or completely built up transmissions that you can just swap.

How many miles on the new 24 valve?

 

[phantomusa]

"What about the 5th gear nut is it something that needs fixin ?"

Darn right. Especially if you tow. Standard Transmission and gear in Fort Worth, Tx has a complete upgraded mainshaft assembly or completely built up transmissions that you can just swap.

How many miles on the new 24 valve?

I've got 95500 on the clock it's never been towed before my ownership
Pappy

 

[petersonj]

Any input about more possible problems that need looking at will be appreciated.

Congratulations on your "new" truck. I also have an 02 (bought it new), but with a six speed. I currently have 266,000 miles on the odometer and the truck has been very reliable. The VP44 and lift pump were replaced at 87,000 miles under warranty and have not been a problem since. The factory fix back then was to install a lift pump in the fuel tank. A few months ago I removed the in-tank pump and installed a Fass lift pump on the frame rail. I only did this in case of a lift pump failure on the road.

The vacuum pump seal will eventually leak. One troublesome area is that the crankcase breather is located on the gear cover on the front of the engine. The vapors from the breather tend to follow air currents that cause a coating of debris to build on the cooling fins on the front side of the radiator. This process takes a long time to occur and is not very visible ( you have to inspect carefully between the air to air intercooler and the radiator). If this occurring on your truck, you can chase solving a overheating problem for a long time. Fortunately, the fix is easy - just take out the radiator and clean it. I have done so with my truck and then re-routed the crankcase breather hose to a different location.

I am still running the original injectors and thought I would go to RV injectors (which is a good way to go) until I came across a used Smarty S03 programmer for 98.5 - 02 trucks. Very impressive results with greatly improved torque on the low end and improved fuel economy. I know that you said you didn't want to install a programmer box, but the Smarty just uses the OBDII port to load the program of your choice and then is disconnected. The Smarty also reads and clears codes.

About the 5 spd transmission... it might be worth considering to swap to a 6 spd for heavier duty and a closer ratio. If it is doable and not cost prohibitive, I think you would be very happy with the results.

- John

 

[phantomusa]

Thanks for the input John I know I'll be putting a Fass pump on soon
Now considering a programer either a edge ez or a smarty looks like both would give about 30-65 hp gain without a lot of work the edge just plugs in and the smarty plugs into the ob2 port and both are about the
same price range
Is there any other things I should be aware of with these programmers it's hard to get info when your a senior citizen with non computer skills
Pappy

 

[petersonj]

Is there any other things I should be aware of with these ?

I only have first hand experience with the Smarty. I read about the features on most all of the programmers, but the one I always came back to was the Smarty - mainly because it really improves throttle response and drive-ability from clutch engagement throughout the rpm range, but especially in the low to mid rpm range. It makes towing a very pleasant experience.

There are many things that I like about the Smarty. You have several default levels of performance that you can program. Within each default level you have control over four to five custom settings that you can individually select for torque, timing, and fuel.

The Smarty searches out the VIN number for your truck and locks onto it and so it can only be used for your truck. If you set the default program back to stock then the Smarty unlocks the VIN number and leaves no trace that it was ever on your truck. At this point you can use the Smarty on any other 98.5 to 02 24 valve truck. You can also check for DTC's on other like trucks even when the Smarty is VIN locked onto your truck.

The key pad operation is easy to use and the menus are simple. Trouble codes are displayed not only by number but with a text description of the code as well. Loading a program takes approximately two minutes from start to finish. What I have found is that after trying various settings for a few days, I selected a program I liked and I have stayed with it ever since.

If you know someone nearby with a Smarty S03 (for the 98.5 - 02), you could probably work out a test drive with it in your truck to see how you like it.

One thing that you should do if you are going to add a programmer or even bigger injectors is to install an EGT gauge to keep those exhaust temperatures in check.

Also, on a different note, you should have a low fuel pressure warning light installed somewhere in the cab. This will alert you immediately in the event of a lift pump failure. This is important because the VP44 has its own internal small gear pump so the engine will keep on running even with a lift pump failure. Without the cooling provided by the lift pump, the VP44 will soon fail.

Hope this helps,

- John

 

[phantomusa]

I've been doing some research after looking at my fuel system looks like I have a dealer installed intank fuel pump which I guess they thought was a better pump back in 2002
But it compounds me puttin a airdog pump on having to drop the tank and installing a draw straw...so instead I've decided to install a bean style bottom sump draw and bypassing the intank pump and running 1/2" fuel line from tank to the airdog pump
I've been thinking about adding a fuel water filter because of the bottom sump
After that's all done I plan to install a edge comp with a wire tap to make some horsepower

 

[phantomusa]

Don I have a change of thought about towing with this truck since I have a Mack R600 I'll continue to use that truck to haul my trailers around and save this truck for my personal driver...I did call standard trans about the 5th nut problem he said as long as I'm not towing with the truck I shouldn't have any problems with the nut he did suggest pulling the rear tailshaft off and inspecting the gear and nut which I'll probably do later maybe early next year
Thanks for your input
Pappy

 

[Shelby Griggs]

I have a 2001.5, 280K and never stranded, I added a FP/EGT combo early on, after a few OEM pumps, adding a big hose kit, etc., I put a FASS DRP on the frame rail and no further FP issues, still running original Vp44. I have done a few of the standard things to front suspension , like steering brace, 3rd gen track bar, etc. as the OEM stuff wore out. Put a SB clutch in and had Standard transmission go though the six speed and do the power lube upgrade. Probably biggest repeat failure has been rear axle bearings, one complete rear axle rebuild and wheel end bearings once or twice, for a truck that has never towed more than single axle cargo trailer it seems a bit odd on a Dana 80... Mostly just routine maintenance for the last 16 years.

 

[petersonj]

Put a SB clutch in and had Standard transmission go though the six speed and do the power lube upgrade.

I pass through Prineville occasionally. Since I have a six speed as well and I am thinking about doing a clutch soon (265,000 miles so far on the original clutch) I am curious as to your opinion regarding the SB clutch. Is it similar to the factory clutch and what do you think about its performance?

Also, did you have the transmission work done because there was a problem with the transmission, or just because of the high mileage?

Thank you,

- John

 

[Shelby Griggs]

I pass through Prineville occasionally. Since I have a six speed as well and I am thinking about doing a clutch soon (265,000 miles so far on the original clutch) I am curious as to your opinion regarding the SB clutch. Is it similar to the factory clutch and what do you think about its performance?

Also, did you have the transmission work done because there was a problem with the transmission, or just because of the high mileage?

Thank you,

- John

SB has been pretty good, maybe a little stiffer than stock and a bit more grabby, especially backing up an incline. I am stock power levels, just wanted something that was going to last. I had the transmission, clutch, etc. done a few years ago, I think around 240K, mostly because I thought the gearbox was getting hard to shift, had a local shop do the R&R, BUT sent it to Standard Transmission on a pallet to go through, replaced only the brass, gears, bearings, etc. went back untouched and they did the powerlube upgrade. While it was out, replaced rear main and did the clutch, new hydraulics, etc., basically anything that was easy access while the gearbox was out of the truck. Some of this was PM since the labor would be great to pull stuff apart later.

 

[petersonj]

Thank you for the information. Just one more question... Is your SB clutch comparable to the stock clutch or is it rated for higher horsepower / torque? You had mentioned that it was stiffer and a bit more grabby.

Thank you again,

- John

 

[Shelby Griggs]

John, dug out the paperwork this morning, I bought this one http://www.southbendclutch.com/ecommerce/1947-OK.cfm?item_id=10168, it is rated for 400 Hp and 800 Tq, I can't remember why now that I went with beefier clutch, it may have been what SB recommended, BUT I guess in any case if wanted to add some power I have some room to grow I had the work done six years ago at 229K, I think another reason was the TO bearing and pilot bearing were going bad so while apart, like I mentioned, shot gun approach to PM, so far, nothing has required additional work, BUT only about 50K in last six (almost seven) years since the work was done. I think all in I was about $3k, surprisingly freight from Oregon to Texas round trip was only around $250, I was glad to pay that to have a shop that knows what they are doing tear into the NV5600. NV5600 parts were around $350, Power Lube was $275 and labor $325, all in all, pretty inexpensive for the actual NV5600 work at Standard Transmission and I have a lot of confidence in their work.Shelby