Back to my Brake Issue

[sparks57]

Man, I am getting really irritated by this stupid brake problem.



To re-cap: when I am sitting still (ie: at a stop light or otherwise) and holding down the brake pedal, it gets hard and the brake lights come on.



Ok, so the first assumption was that I have a vacuum leak.



SO: I checked all the hoses today and found no leaks, or on the fittings.



So what do I look at now?



And, I broke the fitting off of the one doo-hickey on the right side there by all the wiring where the vacuum hose fits on it... wtf is it, and can I get a new one?



I HATE PLASTIC.

 

[Paychk]

well that is a "thingy bob" and it's function is to make you ask q's... ... IMHO it appears to be functioning fine

 

[Paychk]

PS if it has wires running to it , that is a vacuum low warning switch, it lights the brake light and the anti lock light.

 

[sparks57]

Yeah, it's a small cylinder that was bolted to the side above the wiring that has a small three blade plug leading to it.



Hmm... . well... is it something that I should be able to get at the dealer fairly easily?



Do you know where I should start looking now for a problem? Booster? Pump?



Remember that the brakes fade, they work... but when I depress the pedal while idling, the brakes go away.

 

[Philip]

I checked all the hoses today and found no leaks, or on the fittings.

Did you take a vacuum reading to see how much you have?

I broke the fitting off of the one doo-hickey

Thats about a $35 mistake. I am not sure if you can still get it from the dealer. I replaced mine about 6 years ago.

Remember that the brakes fade, they work... but when I depress the pedal while idling, the brakes go away.

Explain a little better. Does the pedal get hard like the lose of vacuum, or it falls to the floor?



If it falls to the floor replace the master cylinder.

 

[sparks57]

No, the pedal gets hard. And nope, I didn't take a vacuum reading because I don't have a meter for that.



Thanks for the info.

 

[Phil Stuart]

Sounds like it could possibly be...

the brake booster assembly. The diaphragm may be on it's way out. Do what Philip mentioned and see what kind of vacuum the pump is pulling and go from there.



Good luck



Phil

 

[sparks57]

Ok, what kind of vacuum numbers should I be getting? And if the vacuum numbers are bad, that means a new vacuum pump, and if the vacuum numbers are good, the only other thing that could be wrong is the booster... correct?

 

[sparks57]

Ok, and if the diaphram in the booster is shot, I have to get a whole new booster unit, correct? Since it's one big sealed unit?



Or can the diaphram be check and replaced?

 

[Philip]

Do not take the booster apart. I do not think you would like to eat a very large heavy spring. Replace only.



The bottom side reading on vacuum is 8 inches. This is the setting of the switch you broke also. The top side is around 20 or so.

 

[phillips5]

I have seen this problem 6 or 7 times and every time after some vaccume tests it was the booster the last one was 110 dollers exchang

 

[sparks57]

Thanks phillips5. I have a strong suspision that it is the booster.

 

[paccool]

CB

Mine did the same thing. Turned out to be the booster. When sitting at a light or coming off the freeway ion a long down hill ramp the RWAL and brake warning light would come on. When just using the brakes for a short period it didn't come on very often. Just wait until you really need the brakes and do a panic stop and the thing fails you!



Another thing, if you end up also replacing the master cylinder, go with a new one, not a rebuild. The rebuilds don't last long. I used one and it lasted about a year and I had to replace it again.

 

[sparks57]

I think my master cylinder is fine... what signs are there that it may be failing? It hold fluid fine...



Just a little rusty, I would like to paint it but I wouldn't want to take it off.

 

[bmoeller]

When the MC or a wheel cylinder is going bad, you can/will have a spongy pedal from air getting in, or the pedal will settle/drop to the floor from the loss of fluid. I have also had it where the fluid will go from the front or rear reservior on the MC and leak past to the other res.

 

[sparks57]

Hmm. . one thing I did notice was that those two rubber things in the cap to the master cylinder were popped down, and my grandpa said they are supposed to stay up.



What's up with that?

 

[CGauthier]

That means you're losing brake fluid somewhere-the fluid level going down creates a vacuum and pulls them down.

 

[sparks57]

That's odd... I have no idea where it could be going. I have kept close tabs on all fluids.



Hmm.....

 

[sparks57]

Ok, now I'm really ******. I just went to the dealership and was quoted this:



Brake Booster assembly: Part # 4294341 $404. 00



And the switch: Part # 4428676 76. 85



I AM SO MAD.



Is there anywhere else I can get these parts new that might not be so overpriced???? THEY ARE MAKING OVER $200 ON THE BOOSTER.

 

[Paychk]

The only time a sane person buys parts from the dealer, is because they are the only place that has that part. Is there any reason the parts have to come from the dealer? If not what about you local parts store? If you insist on new try these guys, the prices are better, but you have to add shipping. I have no experience with them so "Buyer beware".



http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213951



booster = $282. 80

vacuum sensor = 53. 80





PS Have you ever considered Quaaludes?