When I had to replace mine some time back, I took the failed original apart to see how it worked, and what had failed. Turns out to be a very simple design, and easily cleaned - but getting it apart without irreversible damage, and then back together for reliable operation is the hard part - but not really bad. It's a good idea to carefully apply alignment marks to the base and plastic switch section prior to cutting for later reassembly.
I carefully cut the plastic section all around with a hacksaw just above the metal shoulder of the threaded portion - being careful to not cut too deep and damage internal components. Once apart - sorry, no pics of the innards - it was quite obviously a simple design, and the pitted internal contacts were easly cleaned up and renewed. Mine appeared to have suffered from lube contamination - probably a poor or failed seal between the transmission and switch internals - and the oil wetted contacts subsequently were no longer making proper electrical contact.
After cleaning up the switch contacts, I carefully reassembled the switch section to the base, and tried the operation of the switch to see if the amount of material removed from the sawing process for disassembly had interfered with proper operation of the switch - would it still complete proper on/off cycles. It did, so I then carefully applied JB Weld, clamped the 2 sections - carefully realigning the 2 halves as they had been originally, and that was it!
Others trying this, should be cautioned to CAREFULLY apply the JB Weld, using only enough to provide a good joint - but not so much as to "squeeze" inside the switching section and prevent proper movement. Likewise, excess external weld must not interfere with the ability of the plug to seat properly - but excess on the outside can be easily filed or otherwise removed as needed.
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Obviously, if oil intrusion continues with the "repaired" switch, it may well fail as it did originally - although if the contact action is solid enough, it might not be a major issue, since the contact pressure now IS slightly increased with the removal of material in the disassembly process, and reassembly. There is little danger with a failed switch like mine as to lube leaking clear to the outside - at least as long as the rejoining process is done properly, since the plug contacts are completely molded and imbedded into the plastic section, with little likelihood of leakage to the outside.
If the removed material is so much the the switching operation becomes erratic - most likely not switching to the "open" position because the 2 switch halves are now too close together, they can be shimmed with small appropriate pieces to restore proper spacing, then JB Welded.
As far as I'm concerned, this was more a simple experiment, and while it seems the switch is quite functional, I'll only keep it as a backup, and for temporary use if needed, until a new replacement can be obtained - and that's of some value, since we live in a somewhat remote area, and replacements aren't always fast and easy to obtain...
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