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Have '97' 12V and had it in the shop for some work to change out fan clutch. They found head gasket bad and after pulling head I have two scored cylinders. They estimate to fix is $7000. 00.



Question #1 If I just replaced the head gasket a left the cylinders how long could I expect this engine to last?



#2 Would it be cheaper or a better bet to replace the engine with either a used low mileage or new engine? I don't have any idea what I would be looking at as to the cost of a new engine or a good used. Any good ball-park figure would be appreciated.



This truck has 180,000 rounds on it and we pull a construction trailer with this unit.





I appreciate your reply, have to make a decision yesterday.
 
I'm not sure but 7k sounds steep for a repair. I'm willing to bet you could get a fresh re manufactured unit for less w/good warranty. Where are you getting 7k price . . stealer?



I've read that Cummins claims the "normal" overhaul period fro the 5. 9B is abt 400k +/- care, use/abuse etc.



I'm sure someone will chime in soon with more detail than I have. Keep us informed and good luck.
 
Without a first hand evaluation it's hard to determine on this forum. What is the history of your engine? What is it's oil consumption? Some minor cylinder scores can be tolerated.

You have to follow your gut feeling or are these guys just looking for work?
 
i think lookin for work... . u could probably sell the engine that you have already for 2k and then take some money and put in a new one... or buy a new one... and build the one you just pulled out... . you can get a brand new 305hp ISB cummins on eBay right now for 6600 if you bought it but i bet the guy would let it sell for 5400... just some mre figures to look at
 
One question would be how was it running when it went in the shop?

I also have a dead diesel with only 143000 mi. but 140000 before

I got it. In my case the scored cylinders are from broken piston rings, thus no compression. I had a friend with a shop check the jobber price from "Jasper"a re-builder. about 4000. for a long block, 7000 for "running complete" plus installation. The walk in trade price is over 10k.

If you have broken rings the next failure will probably be the rod bearing, then the high dollar crank.

Any one know the cause for broken rings? Timing? fuel? heat? I'm In the dark. One mechanic I spoke to said Ether can do it.
 
There was a post around here about NW Cummins dealers doing a inventory reduction with all new 5. 9's for our trucks. They had all model years and the prices were $5900 with no exchange. Can't beat that.
 
Just an update: The truck didn't burn any oil, serviced regularly at 3 - 4000 miles. It was indicated that the K&N filter that was on it was plugged and sand seeped in around the gasket. The indicator never showed any signs of a restriction. The truck ran really well and the initial problem was the fan clutch.



A firm estimate will be given tomorrow and then the decision will be made.

Thanks everyone for your input.
 
If it ran good before it might run for a long time the way it is and buy you time to get the right deal on a replacement engine and change it when the timing might be better. As long as you dont do a lot of out of town stuff that could leave you stranded in a bad place .
 
Palahniuk,



Have you seen the cylinder scoring for yourself? Is it really severe? Some light scratches are probably livable in an engine like the Cummins running a 15W-40 oil. Seems like I read somewhere (maybe another thread or old TDR?) that the Cummins folks have a check for bad scoring where they mount some sort of gauge on the blow-by hose and see whether pressure is being built up (blow by).



If it was running good before and not burning excessive oil, I'd put that head back on and drive it until there were indications it needed work.



Maybe I'm too cynical, but I've had shops try to burn me in the past and have learned the hard way it pays to be skeptical. There are a lot of mechanics out there who are always happy to charge somebody big $$$ for repairs they don't really need.
 
As others have said if it's not to bad put on a new head gasket and run it. If you aren't comfortable with this, pull the pan, remove the two pistons and run a hone through it (with lube), clean it up real well and put in a new set of rings (only these two cylinders). Put it back together and drive it. It won't be any worse put probably a lot better piece of mind. Should take you a day. Did it to a 6. 2 GM and ran forever and is still going. Good luck
 
Thanks for all the input. Decided to have them put a new head gasket in and buckle her up and complete the repairs that we originally brought it in for. If it starts giving me problems than I'll deal with it at that time. In the mean time I can start checking out the other options of rebiulding or replacing.
 
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