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Ball joint, bearings, u-joints progress

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Whats my 03 4x4 DRW worth?

06 Mega with bad front wheel bearings at 66K

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Decided to do this myself and got started last night. Going to work a little each night (probably 3 nights) to do this.



Last night I got it all torn down. Bearings out, axles out, ball joints pressed out. Tonight I'm going to swap the u-joints in the axles and begin to reassemble.



So far, it hasn't been bad. I read a ton of posts here before I started and I have a service manual. Best tip so far - heat on the caliper mounting bracket bolts. I tried one without for grins (not for long) and it was TIGHT..... a little heat and they came out easily.



I think that living in Texas has made it much easier for me than some folks. The bearings were not hard at all to pull. I loosened the bolts and tapped each with a hammer (and not that hard) to break them loose then I put the puller on and they came right out.



I am also doing the 08 steering upgrade while I have everything apart.



My question is this, does anyone know the pitman arm nut size? I forgot to check it last night and would like to make sure I'm covered there. I seem to recall it being fairly large.



Thanks!
 
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Well, I jinxed myself... the axle u-joints were not fun. I bought a tool from tiger tools that worked great at extracting the joint on the short side... . the long side shaft was another story... . ug... and I'm not sure I didn't bend the yokes a little getting them out. I can't tell for sure though so I guess I'm going to button it up tonight and see what happens..... Pressed the ball joints in last night. Went well. I used the kit I purchased from quad4x4 and it worked well.
 
Best tip so far - heat on the caliper mounting bracket bolts. I tried one without for grins (not for long) and it was TIGHT..... a little heat and they came out easily.



That's because they put threadlocker on them from the factory. You need heat to remove them.



-Ryan
 
That's because they put threadlocker on them from the factory. You need heat to remove them.



-Ryan



Ya, I wouldn't have known that up front if it hadn't been for this forum... . didn't take much heat at all and they came right out. That tip probably saved me an hour.



I finished it up yesterday. I'd say it took me roughly 4hrs per night for 3 nights. I think if I did it again I could shave quite a bit off of that. I'd never done ball joints before and I think I'd carry the axles to a shop to have the old joints removed and new ones pressed in. That would cut a couple hours off right there. :)



I'd say if you're thinking about doing it you probably can. Wasn't anything too difficult. If you live in the rust belt your opinion may be quite different. I didn't have any issue whatsoever with rust like most folks report on the bearing removal.
 
That's because they put threadlocker on them from the factory. You need heat to remove them.



-Ryan

Actually with a 36" breaker bar they come out very easily and you don't have to worry about a inexperienced person melting brake lines, seals or catching grease on fire
 
Actually with a 36" breaker bar they come out very easily and you don't have to worry about a inexperienced person melting brake lines, seals or catching grease on fire



Good point. I didn't mention that the way I found out they were threadlocked is I removed one without heat first.



Unfortunately, I don't have a good HD tool collection, so I had to remove mine with a regular 10" rachet. I keep telling myself that using these little tools builds character. :rolleyes:



-Ryan
 
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