2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ball joint process...

[Bartman#1]

Hi everyone,



went for a sticker today and was told my ball joints were gone, they showed me and sure enough... wasted... {97k)



went to napa, got the lifetime ones.



i have a ball-joint press and have done it to my 82 jeep, i was just wondering if the big, auto-hub,dana60,dodge was much more difficult than the old cj...



any tips or advice would be great!!!

Thax!!!!!

 

[Beach]

I know when My buddy and I did mine it was a pain in the you know what! I hope I never have to do them again. We put anti sieze on everything just in case the next it happen's, everything will come apart. My truck is an '01 and getting the wheel bearing assembly out took a couple hour's thank's to midwest salt corrosion! We used a butt load of heat and a big hammer and chisel to beat them out. I had to replace one wheel bearing because I finally got ****** and just wanted the project over with. So be patient if your's are as stubborn as mine were. It might take some time if it's never been apart. I would have changed both wheel bearing's if I had the cash. I ovaled one of the holes for the stud's and could'nt fix it! There is a small little space or opening on the top of the wheel bearing you can use carefully to try and get the prying process started but watch the ABS sensor that's under there! I don't know if any of this help's you, but I thought I'd share the frustration I went through just as a heads up. Bye the way,my truck drives great now, even though I drove from Illinois to Colorado and back with them shot and pulling a big car hauler. I didn't even know till I got home! Lucky nothing broke! Hope all goes well, Good Luck!

 

[biggy238]

The hubs are where the fun's at... Mine were easy but i've only ever heard of them being Whoures on other trucks.



Jackstand the truck.

Remove the tires.

Remove the Brake calipers and wire up (wire them or they WILL find a way to fall)

Remove the 4 bolts on the inner side of the hub. If you are lucky... your soul is righteous and you are on the path of salvation, your hubs will be loose enough to remove without excessive force.



If not, para military force is in order.



I left the axle attchatched through my hub and slid the hub, rotor and axle out of each side as one unit... 4 hands are helpful with this. Don't let the axle get dirty.



Once you have the hubs, rotors and axles out, pop the tie rod and then remove the nuts on the balljoints. Leave them loose on the ballstuds to keep the knuckle from hitting the ground.



I took a large pry bar (30 lb, 6 ft long) and loaded the knuckle,pressing down, while hitting the inner knuckles with a 5lb sledge... both sides popped after about 5 solid hits.



I got the old joints out by hand but had to have the new ones pressed in. You have that taken care of, if your press is large enough.



Installed the new knuckles, torqued the shiznit out of them.

As said before. . ANITSIEZE EVERYTHING... If it looks suspicious. . goop it with antisieze. .



Keep it away from the axle though. Put Goop around the circular flange on the hub where it engages into the knuckle.



Slide in hub/rotor/axle assembley



Goop 4 bolts



Reattatch tie rods (made accessing the 4 bolts easier without Tie rod connected)



Replace brake caliper. .



tires... jack stands... drive it. .



I think I was vaguely accurate.



Hope this helps



On Edit: I forgot this. . It will help on installing the Passenger side axle if you remove the CAD actuator to make sure the collar is on the center axle and the two axles engage correctly into one another. My passenger side is still leaking because I killed the seal.

 

[Jack in Alaska]

biggy238... ... ..... you have a good way with words.



Oo. My truck needs ball joints and I am hesitant to let some minimal learning gorilla start beating on my newly redone front brake job. Oo.

 

[nutter3]

Jack,



When are you doing your ball joints? Sounds like fun. Maybe if the timing is right John and I could help out. That way I'll know how to do it when mine are due. I think i need a new brake job anyways. One of my calipers is hanging.



Andre

 

[Jack in Alaska]

Andre,



My rt. frt. caliper has been dragging for quite awhile and that is how the brake job was initiated in Auburn, Wash 2 weeks ago. They told me the ball joints were worn and for the small fee of $1100 they could fix it. NOT... .....



Will do it later this winter. Are you up to the job???? Just kidding.



Jack

 

[WyattEarp]

Beach is correct, my right side was replace at 47,000 and let me tell you if your in the rust belt or salt belt or even close by it, plan on frailing the heck out of it for about 4hrs with a 8pd sledge hammer, thats how my axle was finally broke free and after about 2 cans of rust blaster also. . they are a major league B**** if you have rust.

 

[nutter3]

My right front is dragging too. Hmm, well I know John has a couple months off, and I'm sure he is up to it. :-laf . I could be technical support. (screwdriver please, OK now hammer-STAT)

 

[Joe Mc]

Bartman - To remove hub assy. w/o fancy tools I learned a trick from the guy that did my trans. Remove the end axel nut, take center wheel cover off, big socket (I think like 1 11/16?), cheater pipe to go over breaker bar and wheel on ground to pop it loose. Jack stand, tire off, caliper off, remove 2 of the 4 bolts on the backside, back remaining 2 out, and rethread about 3 turns. Install socket and short extension on bolt that is towards the rear, turn the knuckle enough to hold the extension against the housing, start it up and turn steering wheel a bit to side you are removing. Go and check if the bolt pushed the axel bearing away from the knuckle. If not try again. It worked for me when I did my ball joints. Also, I was able to use a map gas hand held tank and a 5" bench vise to push out & in the ball joints. Had to use some creative tools, Short pieces of 2 - 3 " pipe as collars to press things in the vice but it was doable in the driveway in an afternoon.



Good luck.

 

[biggy238]

That is freaking beautiful... I would never have thought of pressing it with the PS..... I'll remember that next time (I hope)



However I would buy a Grade 8 bolt and thread it into the hub as to not kill anything. I don't know how strong the stockers are and how replaceable they are if you did hurt one, being 12 point and all (on my truck). . Millions of standard grade 8's though...