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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball Joint question TSB 02-04-96

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Dana 70 Trac-Lok

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Was quad cab an option in 98?

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In a few days I was going to replace my upper and lower ball joints. Then I found a TSB 02-04-96 Covers 1994-1996 BR ram trucks. It says the lower control arm ball joint ***. has to be replaced on the trucks with a Ball joint that is Tack welded which my truck is. This is a 2 wheel drive 1995 2500. The local parts store list a Moog K7205T joint for my truck but from what I have read the joint will not be tight enough when press in. Has any one run into this before and if I have to go that RT where can I find a lower control arm with ball joint other than the dealer. I don't know if they would even have it after 16 years. Just found this today.
 
Need some help here. Dealer cost lower control arm $510. 00 each, Carquest with moog joints $280. 00 each or replace the ball joints 87. 00 each. I know I am not the only one who has run into this problem.
 
Regarding the 2WD 2500/3500 Rams. The lower ball joint size where it presses into the lower A arm increased about 0. 020" from '96 to '97. The factory had a bulletin to dealers that if they replaced lower ball joints on a '94 to '96, that the complete lower A frame with ball joint from a '97 should be used.

This means if you have an early truck that needs ball joints it will require the '97 size ball joints if the lower A frames were replaced by a dealer somewhere earlier in it's life.

If you have tack welded ball joints, somebody probably tried to use '96 size ball joints, didn't know to use later ones, so just tack welded them in.

When you go to the auto parts store, you'll find a different part number for up to '96, and '97 and later. Get the ball joints out of your lower control arms, and carefully measure the ID of the ball joint holes. Then measure the 2 different ones at the auto parts store. The smaller ball joint will almost fall in loose into the larger A frame.

The larger (later) size ball joint costs about twice that of the earlier (smaller) ball joint. Figure that!

Don't ask me how I know all this :)

Let us know what you find out.
 
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This truck was mine from birth. I have never replaced the ball joints and will not this time if I can find some boots for the bottom they are bad. the joints are worn maybe 10 thousands. The truck has never been off the hiway except AK. last year. Been keeping them greased for about a year with a grease needle and green grease. I am trying to find some used lower arms from a 97 to 99 and install ball joints in them and change then. None of the new arms I have found have greaseable ball joints and run anywhere from $250. 00-$510. 00 they like them alot. Used arms run anywhere from 75 to 100 which would not be much cheaper but I would know what I had. I called a local savage yard yesterday They said 94-99 was the same but they were out right now.



I found out that not all 94-96 had the tack welded ball joints. They must have got arms with the wrong size hole. One of Chryslers infinate ideas I guess.



I have contacted energy susp. about some boots but they said I would have to measure the joint where the boot fits before they could ship. NOT EASY. If I knew the exact size where the boot fits fits it would help.



Thanks for the help.
 
The later size ball joint ('97 - '99) measures 1. 995" in the splined area that presses into the A-frame. The rubber boot fits down over a lip and seats in a groove. The groove measures 1. 905". That's measured with a vernier caliper, so your mileage may vary.

To get greaseable ball joints, you have to use non-OEM parts, which I'd guess you won't find any installed in a new A-frame.
 
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Thanks for this info. The closest I found was 3/4 on the shaft and 1. 775 on the base. It might just work since my ball joint is some smaller. There is another CO. that makes these boots I will have to look them up.



I was all ready to order 4 new ball joints because of the boots on the lower when I found the TSB on the trucks with the spot weld. A local mom and pop parts house could get the Moogs and the number is different from the 97. He offered to press them in and respot weld if need be if I would pull the arms. But after I started reading the problems some were have with the joint not fitting tight. I did not want to order the joints and them not fit. It is hard to find a parts house with them on the shelf. If the larger ball joint would fit It would be nice.
 
That's a good tread. I orded my truck and got it in Sept. 94. It probably it has the smaller joints. I have read a lot in the last few days about the problems some have had when cutting the spot weld and trying to install new joints not only on the 2500, 3500 but also on the 1500. Some said they went in with a lite tap of a hammer. Mine will be all right for a while If I can find some boots but I am going to be on the look out for 2 Used 97-99 arms. I called carquest Thurs. and his was $250. 00 + and he thought they came with Moog joints. I can get them local if worse comes to worse. The dealer wanted $510. 00 each and I found Raybestos on the net but they were about $480. 00.
 
My 95, also mine from birth, had the tack welded Ball Joints. I ended up with new lower control arms that were Mopar from an online dealer in the 600 dollar range, this was within the last five years. I went this route because we had originally replaced the ball joints and then found out about the TSB. Upon inspecting the replaced ball joints found that they were loose. It was definitely not worth being cheap over a few hundred dollars when I have my wife and three daughters in the truck, not to mention the 11,000 lbs fifth wheel.
 
I agree with that. I did find them on moparparts.com tonight for about 350 or so but the dealer may not go along with that because they are shipped to them. I also am towing a heavy RV and I believe safty come first.
 
Wonder who make the oem parts. I found a dorman At rockauto.com for $147. 99 and also raybestos 222. 89. both come with the bushings and ball joints. I have never had any dealings with this co but I noticed a lot have on here. They also had malvotech but I read somewhere about some one using this brand and could never get the front end lined up right.
 
My hole problem was not really the ball joints they are still good it was the boots they were rotten on the lower. I was going to change the joints just to solve that problem. When I found out I would have to change the control arm I made a little extra effort to find some boots NOT EASY 3 days surffing the web. The only place I could find after market boots or any boots any where was Energy Suspension but they did not have any for a 2500 dodge. So I got to looking at their web site and found some for a 2500 Chevy 88-98 that was the correct size. I put them on today and they fit like a glove. The only problem was the top of the old boot had a metal ring to hold it in place the new ones don't but time I tighten the ball joint back up they were all most touching the control arm then I put a plastic Wire tie around them and pulled it tight.
 
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