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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ball joint replacement help

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Ray,

It's a bear without the right tools or at least a torch. Tear down the two knuckles and remove the stub shafts. Clean off the bases of the ball joints. Remove the snap ring from the top of the lower snap ring. Get a large deep socket larger than the diameter of the ball joint and a STRONG C-clamp and press the ball joint out. You may need to strike the C-clamp screw to facilitate it's slow tedious removal. Heat to the ball joint ring may help.

Repeat the above for the top ball joint, using a socket to push the ball joint down.

Do the bottom first.

Clean and liberally antisieze the new ball joints... make sure they have zircs to service them.

Press in and reassemble.

It took me 2 days to remove the first of the four ball joints; the other three took less than 6 hours. I had no C-clamps and used the small 4 lb hand sledge to convince the joints to leave... .

Good luck.

There is a photo article in the TDR 71, pg 18.

While things are apart you should check the spindle and bearings. If you have the unit bearing hubs now would be an excellent time to go for one of the Dana 60 conversion kit... Dynatrac or Spyntec.

Eddie
 
Harbor fright has a nice (ok, not as nice as the snap-on tool) ball joint removal and install tool make sure if you buy it to get the adaptors kit also. And I found that if you cut off the tapered studs on the old units it takes less time and adaptors to press the old ones out.
 
How do I find how to replace the ball joints I did a search but nothing came up



Please fill in your sig so we know what your truck is.

If it is a 2nd gen your ball joints can be in the spindle, not the axle. A little different procedure than what I have in the TDR for the 3rd gens.



Mike:)
 
ive started my ball joint replacement project and the lower joint seems to be built a lil different. On the under side it isnt quite as flat surface so my adapters are at an angle and so i cant get a good straight press . does any1 have any pointers. Also the stud for the bottom joint is longer than my adapters so from what i read i need to cut it of to make it easier. Ive rented the ball joint press from orielly;s is there a better kit from say autozone or pep boys or shud i just break down and buyt the harbor frieght kits??

thanks
 
Oh when im talking about the under side not being flat im talking about the spindle that is welded to the axle tube where the ball joint is pressed in to.

thanks
 
When I did mine, I needed lots of heat. The propane torch didn't work, so I had to break out the O/A. Put anti-seize on everything before it goes back together. It will be much easier the next time. Good luck.
 
Also take the new ball joint and line it up to see which direction it needs to be pressed out. Also make sure the snap ring is removed. Sometimes they get packed with dirt and grime and you cannot see them.
 
Not to be a Debbie-Downer here, but after watching our techs, good experienced techs, replace many sets of these, I would not even start to attempt it at home. Now, if I had a good lift, a real torch, the correct tools, and an unlimited time frame, I MIGHT think about it.

I've seen them come right out and be a perfect install and I've seen them have to beat, heat, spray crazy amounts of Kroil, and beat and heat some more for a couple of days to get hubs out. We even bought a $400 75lb slide hammer tool that I still don't think really helps.

I've seen a green tech that had already do 3-4 sets install a new set wrong that would bind the steering up when turned hard.

Sorry, it's just one of those things like helping you pull a tooth that I don't think I want to try at home. Sure, I could do it, but I don't think you or I would like it at all.
 
I did ball joints more times than I care to remember during, the 347,000 miles I had my 95, 3500 4x4. I always got the ball joint press kit from O'riely's but had to make my own adapters. Aside from that, the kits worked well. Torches are a must, and as others have said clean everything and use plenty of anti-seize, and the next time the job will be much easier. I got to where I could do all four in a day before I sold the truck.

Also as BigPapa mentioned, there is a right and wrong way to put them in, so note how the old ones were oriented. There is a scribe mark on the ball joints to help you install correctly. I had to re-do one to learn this the hard-way... this was before I was a TDR member of course, and knew there was all this knowledge out there :-laf

It's a big job, but like anything can be done. Good luck!!
 
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