2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ball joint replacement

[TrqMonster]

I have been told by a local shop that my ball joints are bad on the drivers side, well actually just the lower on driver side. The cost to replace the upper and lower on one side was almost $400. I refuse to pay that much as I am young and dont have that kind of money to pay someone to do that when it is something I can do my self.



I have used forum search and while there is many different topics on the subject I cant find where anyone has posted the particulars of replacing these ball joints.



I am hoping someone can inform me what to expect when replacing the upper and lower ball joints as far as procedure and tools needed.



I have seen posts where some guys have had to replace the whole arm and some have been welded in and so on and so forth. So I am hoping someone on here has had the experience they can share with a truck like mine (as far as year and so forth) My truck is a 1996 4X4 3500. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks



Another question: I found a post referrering to a kit sold by Quad 4X4 for replacing ball joints, has anyone had any experience with it Good or bad?

 

[DSiemens]

Ball joints are not a fun job. If your 96 is anything like my 95. . A ball joint press is handy. I bought mine at Snap-On, paid more than I would have liked. UAP/NAPA has similar press for less money. Get the adapter set for a Dana 60 axle too. The factory service manual is a good reference, but there is enough posted info that you should be okay. The axles have to be pulled. It is a good idea to clean axle tubes before reinstalling axles. Got my ball joints at NAPA, no experience with the business you named.



Dan

 

[TrqMonster]

ball joints

I can rent a press from Autozone for a deposit that I get back when I bring it back. I have searched the TDR and have found bits and peices about ball joints. I guess I will keep looking.

 

[Shelton]

I just got finished replacing both sides on my 99. The hardest part of the job is likely going to be getting the hub/bearing assembly off. There are four bolts on the inside of the knuckle that come off first (all this after the brakes are out of the way).



In theory, the hub assembly can then be pulled off. The amount of persuasion seems to vary. When I did my 96 I talked to a couple of service techs at DC and they all used a slide hammer bolted to the wheel studs to pound out the hub. I ended up buying a puller more designed for the job. The problem is that the hubs tend to separate and you wind up with bearing pieces all over the floor. If this happens, clean them up well, repack them and press the unit back together.



On this last job, I did try something I read on one of the boards, which was to leave the bottom/rear bolt in the hub (loosened, but not taken out) and then place the socket with a long extension so that it sandwiches between the hub bolt and a bolt in the control arm. Then use the power steering to break the hold between the hub and knuckle. Worked pretty well.

 

[DISPATCH]

ball joints are not to bad i had one side torn apart and reinstalled upper and lower withthe wheel back on in two hours little bit of advice use heat to get them out and when you get home put the ball joint in the freezer it will help them go in easier when the time comes to reinstall

 

[Bandit1]

i jsut got my upper and lower balljoints on my 98 passenger side replaced for $169 that included alignment and front tire balance. ball joints were only 25 for one and 35 for the other from napa and they are greaseable.

 

[TrqMonster]

I just replaced my rotors last weekend. Are the four bolts you are referring to the hub/knuckle bolts (9/16's head bolts) that you have to remove to get the rotor/hub assembly off? If so I had no problems getting these off last week. I think the passenger side needed a little persausion. To the best of your descriptions it looks like I had to deal with that already. I hope so as it will make the job go faster.



Just to clarify, use the heat to warm up the ball joints and then use a ball joint press to remove them? This will be my first ball joint experience so I just want to be clear.



Also any special tools besides a press. I have the 1 11/16 socket for the axel castle nut already from the rotor job.



Thanks for the tips so far, I really apprecitate them, it will make the job go much easier.

 

[Shelton]

Those are the four bolts I was talking about. Since you've already replaced the rotors, you've been deep enough into that area to get through the hard parts. You may want to make sure you have a socket to fit that lower ball joint nut before you get that far (yep, that was one extra trip).

 

[DISPATCH]

use heat on the metel where the ball joint goes into. when metal is heated it will expand and when cold it contracts. so if you heat up around the ball joint but not the ball joint it self it should help with removal the part you heat up is the ear in which the ball joint is in. and then the cold new ball joint should go in a little easier also if you put it in the freezer. when i did my ball joints i used a mini sledge hammer like a 48 oz. and a ball joint press. used the press and tightened it up and then beat on the press and they came out fairly easily.