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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball Joint Rubbers

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I have just noticed my upper and lower ball joint rubber covers are really split and opened up.

With 184k on the clock, and no signs of balljoint wear or problems, what should I do, replace the rubbers or just bite the bullet and have all four ball joints installed? (It looks like a major job to replace the ball joints)
 
I'd replace the entire joint as you'd have to take it all apart to replace just the rubber anyway. If your goint to attept to do the job, I'd suggest taking the knuckle off and then taking that to an auto machine shop having them press out/in the ball joints. Look at the universal joints in the front axles while you at it.
 
The ball joints really aren't that bad to replace. Especially if you can find a shop to do the press work for you. If you decide to do the axle u-joints at the same time be prepared to do the axle seals too, if the seals are old putting the axles back in will make them leak.
 
Looks like he has a 2wd according to his sig. if so then it's pretty easy to do. I would suggest doing the control arm bushings while you have it apart. I just re did my entire front end, ball joints and bushings last november, took about 4-5 hrs per side to do. Check out Rockauto.com for your ball joints you get a 5 or 10% discount for being a TDR member.
 
Thanks guys, yep I am a two wheel drive model. It just looks so bad to have to take the A frames off to press in new joints, suppose I will just bite the bullet and get new ones. Thanks for the tip on where to get them.



Looks like he has a 2wd according to his sig. if so then it's pretty easy to do. I would suggest doing the control arm bushings while you have it apart. I just re did my entire front end, ball joints and bushings last november, took about 4-5 hrs per side to do. Check out Rockauto.com for your ball joints you get a 5 or 10% discount for being a TDR member.
 
Don,

Do you have the press in ball joints are the ones that are held in place with rivots? The rivots and the upper control arm bushings were the only things that gave me any problems. The upper control arm bushings are easy to get out and difficult to get back in. Don't get me started on the rivots I nearly lost the tip of my finger dealing with them.
 
No rivets, only press fit in the control arms. Sure makes it harder to replace them. Just hate to take the arms off.



Don,



Do you have the press in ball joints are the ones that are held in place with rivots? The rivots and the upper control arm bushings were the only things that gave me any problems. The upper control arm bushings are easy to get out and difficult to get back in. Don't get me started on the rivots I nearly lost the tip of my finger dealing with them.
 
Iffen your 2WD then ball joints are MUCH easier since you dont have axle seals which will leak no matter what!!. I'd investigate MOOG parts as they're warranted for life - the last you'll buy. I believe MOOG has 2WD joints with alignment camber-adjustable capablility for your year.
 
One of the advantages of living down here, is first rate labor at cheap prices. I am leaning towards just having new rubbers installed for now, easy, cheap, and quick to do. The truck steers and handles like a brand new one, maybe get a few more miles out of it before replacements. It has not been run in the rain or in mud that way, so I feel they are not damaged yet.
 
Don't forget about dust. Plenty of that in TX. Acts like an abrasive.

The boot on my upper pass side ball joint was junk, and it took the joint with it. :( Did the lower while it was apart. Not that expensive, and wasn't to bad to do, even living where they salt the roads.
 
Mine just came off on the drivers side - only 12K since the joint was replaced. The pasenger side is still there after 65K. I hope just keeping it greased every month will keep the dust and grime out. Not a cheap fix on a 4x4.
 
No dust down in this part of far south Texas, we are sub-tropical climate here amongst the citrus and bananna trees.

Don't forget about dust. Plenty of that in TX. Acts like an abrasive.



The boot on my upper pass side ball joint was junk, and it took the joint with it. :( Did the lower while it was apart. Not that expensive, and wasn't to bad to do, even living where they salt the roads.
 
Huh, My local Napa carries them.

Just got a new dust boot for my tie-rod end.

Then again they are still family owned with a small machine shop in back.
 
Last week I noticed that the boots for the lower ball joints on my '98 were shot, but like Don/TX the ball joints themselves still seem solid. I'm going to replace all the ball joints next year before I get new tires, but in the meantime I used clear silicone sealant to completely coat the split boots. Once it dried I used a grease gun with hypodermic needle attachment to inject grease inside the silicone "cocoon". I also greased all the other non-greasable joints using the needle-in-boot method, and coated the puncture holes with silicone.

I know it's shadetree, but am hoping this will keep the ball joints alive until I'm ready to tackle this project next year. When the time comes, I'll try using that Harbor Freight ball joint press that I've heard about.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
 
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Looks like he has a 2wd according to his sig. if so then it's pretty easy to do. I would suggest doing the control arm bushings while you have it apart. I just re did my entire front end, ball joints and bushings last november, took about 4-5 hrs per side to do. Check out Rockauto.com for your ball joints you get a 5 or 10% discount for being a TDR member.



How do you claim the discount on the Rockauto website?
 
Don, yours are pressed in? Mine are riveted in. I had my passenger lower ball joint replaced about five months ago (the others were still in great shape). The new ball joint is attached with nuts and has a zirk.
 
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