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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball Joints 2500 4WD

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My dealer at the 60000 mile check says that my ball joints are nearing the end of their wear specs. and should be replaced. Is this a common repair at this mileage for my truck? I only use my pickup to tow our 6700lb Artic Fox over blacktops. I don't use it for ruff off road four wheeling.

Oo.
 
Longevity of our balljoints is hard to figure out. Some guys have much better luck then others. Tire size, road conditions, and driving style probably have a lot more to do with it than just mileage. I check mine frequently, and wouldn't be surprised if they didn't last longer than 15000 miles when offroading frequently. The bottom line is if they are loose, replace them. It's been my experience that if you ignore a couple of sloppy suspension/steering components for very long, you have a better chance of everything else wearing out faster. Keeping your front end tight equals a much more enjoyable truck to drive.



If I was you, I would check them myself. Taking someones word for it is always hard when seeing the repair estimate. I posted how you can do a basic front end check in the 3rd Gen forum yesterday. It's easy, and worth doing as basic maintenance.



KP
 
Balljoints are not all the same, make sure to get greaseable ones. And most importantly, grease them at each oil change.



I just replaced balljoints on my ford excursion and it was not fun. I have since bought the right tool for the job. I will be doing the dodge in the next few months.



To check your balljoints, jack one front tire up off the ground and grab ahold of it at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. Try to rock the tire back and forth, pulling the top of the tire towards you and then towards the vehicle, same for the bottom. If you feel any movement, it is either balljoints or your front hub bearings. If you have movement, have someone else do this while you look underneath to see where the movement is at. It is relatively easy to see movement at the balljoints if there is any.
 
Missouri Mule,



That is pretty cool. Have you ever even seen a pothole? Ha ha. I wish I had your luck. Whatever you are doing, don't change anything...



KP
 
The best way to check the upper and lower ball joints is to jack up the front tires one at a time, and take a long pry bar under the tire and lift up on the bar, if it has play you will feel the dead spot,and to confirm it look at the joints as your doing it. I just rebuilt my entire front end last summer,and when I put new tires in december I noticed that the lower balljoint stem was shinny. I took a bar and lifted upon the tire and the balljoints are allready shot, with less than 3000 miles. I called the place I got them from and they said there should be no play in them and they would send me new ones, I told them when I greased the top joint the play dissapeared ( the bottom ones are non greasable) The told me this would be temporary. Again they said they would replace them for me. I really dont feel like tearing the front end apart again,it looks so good after I blasted all the parts, primed and painted them, but I guess Im going to have to do it. The parts I used are oem spicer danna. I can't remember the place I got them from,but they were recomended by members on this site. Gregg:)
 
My tire was low last night slow leak . So i jacked it up to add slime then fill . Decided to check my ball joints :eek: . Really bad checked the other side just as bad . The big dummy i am never checked them before :eek: 146,000 miles . Now every oil change i will be checkin them .
 
My passenger lower ball joint was kaput at 95,000 miles. I'm one of those who believes that if the others are okay, don't replace them (russian roulette, but @ $495/side I'll wait). I had an indy shop do the replacement (they use Moog joints). The only reason I wouldn't do the job myself is because I don't have an air chisel, which is what it seems it takes to get that damned rivet off. Definitely a smart move to go with greaseable replacements. Funny thing is my factory upper ball joints (still riveted in) are greaseable. I wonder why they didn't do this with the lowers... :confused:
 
Au contraire, mon frere. The rivets were there plain as day, and I watched them chisel the rivets off, to get the ball joint out. ;) :-laf



Is it possible that there were different configurations of the 2wd setup for the 3500? Mine is an early 2001, built April 21, 2000.
 
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Nada problem... . you had me worried for a sec that I was hallucinating again (happens from time to time, when I have to shell out money on this truck) :D
 
I'll cast a vote for MOOG heavy duty ball joints - fully greaseable (I use a right-angle gun tip for the upper) and lifetime warranty. Holding up well here in Mass where small cars are left in the potholes!!.
 
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