ball joints and Dynatrac...oh my...

[steved]

Changed balljoints this weekend which required pulling the hubs off. Found that even with antiseize, the spindles were stuck it the knuckle... not bad, but worse than I expected.



At 180k, found only one balljoint loose, top drivers... would have still passed inspection. Only one was difficult, bottom passenger... we have a harbor freight press and master adapter kit. It worked ok.



I knew I had gotten water in the lock-outs last summer, from the lockouts not being tight against the hub. I didn't know it had actually gotten past the lockouts and into the bearings.



Found one spindle bearing rusted due to a failed seal. Didn't worry about it since I rarely use 4wd during the summer. Will replace them when I have more time.



Will most likely replace at least one outer bearing and race. One has shown signs it got warm because of a lack of grease due to the water (there was still some grease, not a lot).



Used two large lock rings per side to pull the lockout tighter to the body to prevent water intrusion.

 

[steved]

The reason for my post (posted earlier with my blackberry) was to let those with the DynaTrac kits to ensure you inspect your hubs once in a while.



I would have never expected to find what I did during this past weekend. Could have turned into a very expensive mistake...



Just an FYI...

 

[Bartlett]

Well there is another good reason for preventive maintanence. I am glad u caught in time

 

[rbattelle]

Stuff like this bothers me. When I replaced my hub bearings I applied a TON of the most expensive nickel-based anti-seize I could find. I also carefully filed the ID of the knuckle so the new bearings slid in and out easily by hand.

That was 2 years ago, and everything is working perfectly.

My intuition says "don't touch it if it's not broken". Then Steve points out that even with anti-seize we could be in big trouble. Ugh.

Ryan

 

[Regcabguy]

Dynatrac service interval.

Dynatrac recommended servicing the conversion every 15,000-18,000 miles when I spoke to them. A greasable factory bearing would be a hit.

 

[steved]

I was told every 50k, which I stretched to 120k... doh!



I know it was sort of my fault, for going so far. But at the same time, I would not have expected a seal failure nor the orings on the hubs to leak... especially on new parts (when installed)...

 

[steved]

Ryan:



I did the same... forced the unit bearings out, filed all the scale out, used Permatex anti-seize, and still had the spindle stick. It didn't stick bad, but needed some persuasion to release. I would have expected them to almost fall out...



I decided that since the corrosion seemed to work itself under the NS, to se some cheaper chassis grease to coat everything thinking the grease's oil might penetrate better. I got to pull at least one hub later this summer or fall to replace some of those bearings and seals... so we will see...



One thing to note, the spindles seem to corrode more severely than the knuckle or even the OE hub...

 

[Regcabguy]

I was told every 50k, which I stretched to 120k... doh!



I know it was sort of my fault, for going so far. But at the same time, I would not have expected a seal failure nor the orings on the hubs to leak... especially on new parts (when installed)...

Yeah,that figure they quoted seemed awfully low,but the rep. said it was cheap insurance. I never did my old Toyota before 50,000 as well as my F-250.

 

[brods]

Same thing, cleaned and coated everything with quality anti-seize, but that didn't prevent the spindles from being stuck badly in the knuckles. I was pretty surprised since the new spindles fit very loosely in the cleaned up knuckles. Someone posted in another locking hub thread about cleaning the rust off and then painting those areas of the spindle and knuckle to prevent new rust from locking the parts together. Cleaning and painting along with some grease or silicone sealer to keep water out would probably be the best long term solution.

 

[moonranch]

Last time I took the hubs out (for a u-joint change) I cleaned everything, then re-assembled with silicon. I have not had it apart yet to see if the silicon works.

 

[bighammer]

Stuff like this bothers me. When I replaced my hub bearings I applied a TON of the most expensive nickel-based anti-seize I could find. I also carefully filed the ID of the knuckle so the new bearings slid in and out easily by hand.

That was 2 years ago, and everything is working perfectly.

My intuition says "don't touch it if it's not broken". Then Steve points out that even with anti-seize we could be in big trouble. Ugh.

Ryan

Sounds very similar. Now I'm wondering if I will have problems pulling mine apart the next time.

 

[steved]

I feel water intruded where the anti-lock brake sensor is located, and got in there. I'm not sure why the anti-seize didn't prevent it... like the rust formed under the anti-seize.



Hoping by greasing it, the oil in the grease will penetrate the rust and prevent the problem from re-occurring.