2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball joints bad.... replacement method, tips

[Gordon Maney]

My ball joints are all loose at 60,000 miles. I was quoted $800 to do all four, plus the thought that the U-joints in the axle shafts should be inspected at time of disassembly to see if they should be replaced. The bill could be $1,000 if the joints were bad, I was told.



My first question, since I am thinking of doing it myself: Who makes the best ball joint press? I am pretty well equipped, but don't have one of those. I see reference to 4-wheel drive adaptors, also.



Also, any opinions on which ball joints to buy? Who offers the best, are the adjustables worth buying?



Any bad spots in this job? Any problem associated with the ABS?



I have done a lot of work on earlier Dodges having tapered roller bearings and bronze cones, but have never had one of these apart.



I have always done my own work, but right now this is my only four wheeled vehicle that is running, so... . my motorcycle would be a bit snug if we have bad weather, to get to work.



Any comments would be appreciated. Thank you... .

 

[fishjack1]

Just did my ball joints on my 1996 - I ordered the parts and tool kit from Dan at quad4x4.com -

Dan includes a video with the tools and parts that makes the job fairly simple.



I used a 8 ton bearing press to push the old ones out and the new ones in it worked fairly well. Took me about 5hrs start to finish for both uppers and lowers on both sides. Also replaced one front axle u-joint while I had it out - it was slightly binding.



Best of luck...

 

[PC12Driver]

It wouldn't be a bad job, especially if you had a ball joint press. Fairly straight forward. And I second the vote for the quad4x4 package. Everything is included, plus great instructions (and video).



But with that said, I bought the kit and tried to do it myself. I spent a weekend trying to get the hub assembly out of the knuckle and gave up and took it in to have it done. Mine ended up costing $1,500 since the hub assy's ended up getting destroyed in the removal process (so did my fender, but that's another story). If the hub assy's are stuck you'll need a lot of heat (more than your average propane torch) and a BFH to pound them out. Too much heat in the wrong place and you'll cook the bearings in the hub.



Get the kit w/tools, rent a ball joint press, and try it. If you can get the hubs out, you're good to go. If not, take the kit to the shop and let them have all the fun.

 

[NCovey]

Replacing the ball joints isn't too terrible of a job. I rented the press from my local O'reilly store.

To get the hubs out, I used a large two finger puller against the axle shaft. I sprayed the mount down with a good penitrating oil applied, moderate pressure with the puller, and whacked it with a 3lb hammer. They popped right out.

The only warning I have is to make sure to be careful when replacing the axleshaft. I managed to tear up my axle seal in the process, which then neccessitated the removal of the differential.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Specifically what is it about the hub removal that is the problem? Is there a piece that is an interference fit in a bore, or what?



Other than trying to remove the shaft in a way that prevents the weight of the shaft dragging across the seal lip, is there some trick to preventing seal damage?

 

[NCovey]

The problem with removing the hub, is that it is usually rusted into the spindle. The tolerance is pretty close.

The only trick I know to putting the axleshaft back in, is to make sure the inside if the axle housing tube is clean, and then grease the holy crap out of the axleshaft before carefully replacing it. I used a prybar to try to keep it centered in the tube. -Nicholas

 

[Jeff Knight]

The newer front axle has the ball joints in the axle tubes instead of the spindle. They are more of a pain to change than the older trucks. Not sure when they changed. Jeff

 

[EBansberg]

anybody looked at www.bulletproofsteering.com? I've kinda been checking it out but didn't know of anybody that had tried it. Seems like it might be better.

 

[Sasquatch]

Gordon:



I just had mine replaced, also for $800, parts and labor. I think this is a fairly ambitious job, and I try to do most of the work on my truck, where I can.



Unless you have the necessary tools and skills, this might be one of those jobs best left to a shop, IMO. First, (as the testimonials in this thread attest) there's the potential for damage to expensive components. Second, there are lots of ways to get hurt doing this job. Third, it's nice to have somebody to go back to and lean on, if there are any, after the fact, problems with the installation, e. g. , you discover that one of the new ball joints was defective (happened to me).



My installer used MOPAR, OEM parts, and the job is fully warranted, labor and materials, for 1 year or 15,000 miles. Ask yourself what 5 hours of your time is worth, and/or the peace of mind afforded by having somebody to complain to, if you're not 100% pleased with the results.



I admire the guys who tackled this one themselves, but, for me, it was a job I was glad not to mess with.