2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball joints, Dodge vs Ford

[Gordon Maney]

Do the Fords have the same ball joint problems as we do?

 

[Devan Manis]

from my limited experience yes.

 

[Gordon Maney]

... . and do the 1st generation Dodges have as much trouble with that axle configuration, or is it more durable, or is it just simpler to repair?

 

[LSchulz]

I don't know which ones will last longer given the same abuse, but the Ford ones are a lot easier to replace. I had an '02 F350 without a snow plow, and I did the ball joints on that around 100k. On that truck however, you can take the steering knuckle off, and the ball joints come with it. Then you can set up some blocking and get a good angle on them with a hammer, or put them in a press. It's a lot easier than trying to work under the wheel well.

 

[vssman]

I don't know which ones will last longer given the same abuse, but the Ford ones are a lot easier to replace. I had an '02 F350 without a snow plow, and I did the ball joints on that around 100k. On that truck however, you can take the steering knuckle off, and the ball joints come with it. Then you can set up some blocking and get a good angle on them with a hammer, or put them in a press. It's a lot easier than trying to work under the wheel well.

My 96 is set up this way - not sure what year DCX changed to have the ball joint pressed into the axle tube...

 

[2-ND TIME]

Ball joints

I have had these greaseable balljoints in for over 220,000 km's since I had to figure out that the excessive toe-in from the factory wore out the original ones before 22,000 km's they were in there till 62,000 km's and replaced out of warranty ,but by then the rest of the steering components were wore out. At which point these ones were installed and have been greased every 10,000 km's since. :-laf

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The 1st generation trucks at least had greasable balljoints - either that, or the actual construction got me 120K miles from my '91 at the time I sold it - steering was still solid as new at EVERY joint!



Man, I sure MISS those greasable steering components! :{ :{

 

[Schlickenmeyer]

at 110k and all the original balljoints. Guess I am lucky. not looking forward to them going though.

 

[Devan Manis]

245k miles and still stock on my second gen.

 

[CumminsPower98]

My ball joints are doing well. If they are original to the axle (not original axle under truck) they have about 376k. I have personally put about 250k on them so they have well over 250k and they are still tight as ever. I did put zerks in the lowers quite a while back. Same mileage goes for the hub bearings. I recently added grease zerks to them also, which can be grease anytime without disabling anything.

 

[Gordon Maney]

My ball joints are doing well. If they are original to the axle (not original axle under truck) they have about 376k. I have personally put about 250k on them so they have well over 250k and they are still tight as ever. I did put zerks in the lowers quite a while back. Same mileage goes for the hub bearings. I recently added grease zerks to them also, which can be grease anytime without disabling anything.

How did you put grease fittings in the hubs and lower ball joints?

 

[JessePayne]

I would also be interested in finding out how to add fittings to lower ball joints and bearings. I just finished replacing my ball joints bearings and ujoints. I found greasable ujoints from quad 4x4. Anything to make the rest of the setup last longer.

 

[Gordon Maney]

I would also be interested in finding out how to add fittings to lower ball joints and bearings. I just finished replacing my ball joints bearings and ujoints. I found greasable ujoints from Quad 4x4. Anything to make the rest of the setup last longer.

Their lower ball joints were did not have grease fittings, did they?

 

[pwerwagn]

im at almost 200K on original ball joints/wheel bearings.



The first gen trucks were a totally different axle setup. its a true dana 60, other than the fact that it uses ball joints as opposed to kingpins.



I tend to see more 2nd gen trucks with aftermarket wheels than I do 1st gens, and I think that has a lot to do with the ball joint problem (as well as the wheel bearing prob).



--Jeff

 

[frtendtech]

ford stupid duty ball joints from 99 on up 4x4,same as dc,3500 with dana 60 frt

axle. factory one on my truck 98 qc 3500 4x4 went 95000 rt side,lft side 125000

installed ford factory parts(i work at ford dealer) cause they were alot cheaper

wow how cheap, both sides worn out again, less than 25000 miles on em. next

time will use moog. ford has changed lower ball joint part number 6 times since

stupid dutys came out. co workers buddy ordered new 06 with sucks litre diesel

guy had truck one month back for first oil change,3000 miles,lower ball joints

loose already. . 020 play. . junk trw parts made using fords spec's

motor craft ball joints have zerts and dont last any longer, found this out with

local towing co. that has fleet of stupid dutys. :-{}

 

[CumminsPower98]

How did you put grease fittings in the hubs and lower ball joints?

Pictures and info of the wheel bearing zerks are at the bottom of my mods page here: www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm. I don't have a picture of the lower ball joint zerks on there but it's real simple, just drill in the center of the lower joints until drill goes through the teflon or whatever it is in there (white plastic) and hits the ball and thread in a 90 degree zerk fitting. I would like to do the uppers but there is no room to drill them without having an angle drill and the axles out or maybe press the joints out.



Also the first 55k miles before I went OTR I was running 33x12. 5x16. 5 tires on 9. 75 wide rims with a fair amount off roading.

 

[SHobbs]

at 110k and all the original balljoints. Guess I am lucky. not looking forward to them going though.

I got 183k outta the originals. Just got through doing the ball joints, tie rods and control arm bushings on mine. You are right in not wanting to go through them, they are not fun. If you have the ball joints held in place by rivots get ready they are no picnic. I had to grind one side flat, drill the center out of the rivot then knock it out. Getting the upper control arm bushings back in was no fun either. If you have acces to an air hammer/chisel it might make the job easier. Get ready for a day on each side at least.