2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ball joints on a 2002

[PVanderlugt]

Well, looks my ball joints are about due for replacement, never done them before, anyone know of a good threat to guide me through it? Have factory service manual, that will help.

Also, looking at Quad4x4 site, are the greasable ball joints really worth the extra $40 apiece?, $90 a ball joint seems steep. Also, seems like the 2000-2002 ball joint are a bear to do, and a heavy duty removal tool is required, would an auto parts store have a heavy duty enough for rental??, or is buying the tools from quad kinda a must? $350 a decent price? Don't mind buying or owning tools , but can't imagine I would use these to much.

Thanks for the help in advance

Pete

 

[RHestand]

Try rockauto.com.

They offer several brands/grades of ball joints, and will sell you any special tools you might need for install, and IMO, good prices.

I bought my ball joints from them, and I have no complaints.

Ray

PS. TDR members get a 5% discount.

 

[DLausche]

I got the greasable ball joints from Quad4x4 and have been happy with them. As far as the tool to remove them, I did invest in the ball joint press set from OTC. Was quite spendy and did not even come close to budging those ball joints loose. I heated, pressed, and banged on em for a long time. Finally gave up and brought them to the machine shop to have them press em out and back in. I can't recall if the ball joints are pressed into the knuckle or the axle post 99. I know it changed in 2000. If you can remove the knuckle with the ball joints then I recommend you disassemble them and let someone with a hydraulic press remove the ball joints and press in the new ones. If you buy a press you should be able to use it for u-joints too. I don't use the press set very often at all and If I had it to do over I would spend the $ elsewhere.



-Deon

 

[PVanderlugt]

Ray, I did look at them as well, can't tell if the MOOGs are greasable or not, don't think so, however prices are good if I did decide to go that route
Deon, the 2002 the ball joints are part of the c on the axle, so taking them somewhere is not an option. Kinda worried about not being able to get them out of the axle, just don't want to bite of more than I can chew.
Pete

 

[DLausche]

...

Deon, the 2002 the ball joints are part of the c on the axle, so taking them somewhere is not an option. Kinda worried about not being able to get them out of the axle, just don't want to bite of more than I can chew.

Pete

That's kinda what I was afraid of. That really makes it difficult for a do-it-yourself person. I wonder why they changed this design? Makes ya wonder what kind of pull the service industry has with the manufacturers. Taking it somewhere will be big $$$. In your shoes I think I would buy the press to do the job - or rent would be even better if you can find it available anywhere.



BTW - long shot but if you are in the Twin Cities area you would be welcome to use the ball joint press I have here.



-Deon

 

[Cummins Thunder]

I had no problem doing my 02 with a rental press set from Oreilly. If I recall correctly I used a couple of large sockets with the press and I had the job done with no issues.

 

[PVanderlugt]

Deon, love the Twin cities, however located in NW Ohio, thanks for the offer though.
CT, the only difference I see is you are located in Texas. we are here in salt country here, stuff rusts solid within 1 year. However I think I will go see what the auto stores here have for rental tools and see if it is heavy duty enough, I guess I can always get the tools from quad and if I don't use them I will see if they will take them back.
Thanks for the info, I need some encouragement.
Pete

 

[RHestand]

Pete,

I bought Moog, and they were greasable, about $300 w/shipping.

I used a friends portable, C-type press (Snap-On, I think). After soaking them good, several times with PB Blaster, starting the day before, they came right out.

I was also worried about rust (ten year N. WI truck). They came out without any problem.

My local front-end shop wanted $900, parts, labor, and alignment.

I did it for $300 +$75 for alignment, and about 6-7 hrs.

Good Luck, Ray

 

[PVanderlugt]

Thanks for the encouragement Ray, I will get some parts heading this way and see what happens. Did you have any problems getting the wheel bearings off without destroying them??
Pete

 

[DLausche]

Ah, yes - removing the wheel bearings. Forgot about that fun part. Actually, I found a very easy way right here on the TDR. Back off the 4 bolts holding the bearing in about 1/8" or so. Find a short socket extension long enough to reach to the axle tube. Put the socket and extension on there and have an assistant hold it in place, jammed against the axle tube center while you start the truck and turn the wheel carefully. The power steering should pop the bearing out effortlessly. Do not use a puller on it as that will destroy the bearing assembly. Use anti-seize liberally on the bearing when reassembling.



Don't forget to remove the big nut from the axle shaft BEFORE jacking the truck off the ground.



I wish you the best of luck on your project.

-Deon

 

[PVanderlugt]

Thanks Deon, I did see that procedure as well, looks like that would be the way to go. Did stop at Autozone, decided to start pre-soaking stuff in penetrating oil, they did rent out what looked like to be the mother of all ball joint presses, it did appear that it had a deep enough throat, so we might get this project done yet.
Thanks Pete

 

[BJonesUSA]

Pete,



How did you come out on your balljoint replacement? I'm going to have to do mine soon, so any tips would be great!

 

[PVanderlugt]

Well,
still sitting in my parts cabinet, hoping to get to them in the next week or two. Have been soaking everything with kroil for a couple of weeks now, hopefully it will help.
Only thing I am not sure of is if the Ball joint press that Autozone rents is going to be large enough. Some people say no problem, other say it will not work on the lowers. Maybe will get a little creative with some dry ice and a torch, it might help a little getting them out. Will let you know when I get done and tell you how it went.
Pete

 

[rkressg]

The lowers will require a larger than normal ball joint press. If you have a oxy/ace torch, you can burn down the end of the balljoint and use a normal size press. this might sound dumb, but the normal press will work for pushing them back in.



OTC does make a large service ball joint press, but it is not all that common. Usually most people just get the normal size one.



When you turn the forcing screw, ensure that you lube the it with something like WD40 or light weight oil. You will probably need a good 10' breaker bar on the end of a big socket/ratchet to force out the ball joints (I bent a 1-1/2" by 10' rigid conduit on my 3/4" ratchet and socket pushing out the lower ball joints on my truck last time. Once you get a lot of force on the tool, do not go near it (in case the tool snaps). You will be amazed at how much force it will take to push the lower ball joint down (don't forget to remove the snap ring from above).



The worst part is getting out the hubs. While you are in there, you should replace everything else, but that is just my $0. 02. If you get the hubs apart with out destroying them, clean them well (with a wire wheel) along with knuckle. They should fit back together cleanly and smoothly. Use Anti-seize when you put the hub and knuckle back together. If you can not get the hub out of the knuckle (do this first before you separate the ball joints or tie rod ends), you will need to burn off the ball joints (the rubber/grease stinks).



Good Luck, but overall it is not that bad. Get ready to spend at least 1/2 day doing both sides.