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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission balljoints

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I had a caliper lock up on me yesterday. Napa brand, second failure in a year. I keep my rears well adjusted, I dont use excessive brakes to stop, hoses and fluid has been changed in the last 20k miles. Kinda got me baffled. Anyhow, I warped the rotor in the process (pressed on rotors) so I had to pull the hub assy and press the studs out to have the rotor turned down. I got to inspecting other components, and my lower ball joint has some noticeable play in it. Its not enough to notice while driving, but going by the original owners records these are the originals and Im thinking Id rather do them now while Im this far into it rather than later. Ive been looking at the Spicers, but they appear to be non greaseable? Im also looking at the Raybestos Premium Grade. Any opinions on either of these? I spent close to an hour doing a search here but havent really turned up any solid info as to whether there are problems with either. Also any other reccomendations would be appreciated.
Thanks!
 
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I sold my 99 at 200k with the original spicer drivers side upper/lower balljoints and they were still tight, but not frozen. Passenger side had about 50k on them and they were greasable moogs, no complaints out of them. Truck I have now has all moog greasable balljoints, and they are tight. Sorry to hear about your caliper trashing your rotor, that sucks!
 
Yes the MOOG are lifetime warranty I actually checked them out also. Ive not heard alot about them with the 2nd gen trucks but Ive heard from some of my 3rd gen buddies theyve not done well on the AAM axles. How many miles do you have on yours, Troubleshooter?
 
I definitely want to go the greaseable units, mine have been dried out for a while and squeak occasionally when wet. Im a little surprised at the positive feedback on Moog stuff, I didnt think they held up very well on the D60. Has anybody got any experience with the Raybestos Professional Grade ball joints?
 
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