Bandsaw

[nickleinonen]

if you clamped the door down flat on the bench, you could setup a guide against the flat edge, then use some bar stock and a hammer to beat it down while maintaning the angles to tweek it a bit. or see if you can set it up in your press, and use it to bend it back

 

[rbattelle]

That's the best I came up with as well. Going to try it tonight...



Ryan

 

[Turbo Thom]

I remember one thing an inspector told me on a job about 25 years ago. He said, "if you can't get to a spot to weld it correctly, don't do it at all". My welding passed, the formans failed. Before you mess the thing up with your "welding", get some sheet metal and practice. Before long you won't be a novice.



. . Preston. .

 

[rbattelle]

Before you mess the thing up with your "welding", get some sheet metal and practice.

You're absolutely right, I need to be careful not to screw anything up welding. The hinge I welded went very well (if a bit crooked). I also welded a shield for the lower wheel that had broken, which didn't go as well as the hinge. The metal was too thin to be welding (something like 16 ga probably), and I ended up having to take a lot of extra time cleaning things up and filling in a couple burn-throughs with lead solder.



I did manage to partially re-bend the upper door into a more "natural" position using the method Nick suggested. Still needs some pounding, but it's much better than it was.



-Ryan

 

[nickleinonen]

He said, "if you can't get to a spot to weld it correctly, don't do it at all"

yeah, it is always nice to weld in a comfortable position, but when you need to weld something in a bad position, and that bad position is the best you can do, you gotta do it there. .

 

[BGlidewell]

if you clamped the door down flat on the bench, you could setup a guide against the flat edge, then use some bar stock and a hammer to beat it down while maintaning the angles to tweek it a bit. or see if you can set it up in your press, and use it to bend it back

add some heat to it as well. a torch will ease the bending

 

[rbattelle]

Started a website.



Not much there now, but it will grow.



Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Oh, baby, this is a BEAUTIFUL machine! If I lived in LA... .



Link.



Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Here's a STEAL (if the gearbox is functional):



http://cgi.ebay.com/DoALL-VERTICAL-...QQihZ020QQcategoryZ104243QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Awesome buy for $1000. If the gearbox is good, this guy doesn't know the true value of what he's got. Shoot, the value in spare parts alone is much higher than $1k! For some reason, people pay huge $$$$ for any DoAll parts that come up on Ebay.



It's a late model - I'd guess sometime after 1970. It uses metal sheaves on the variable speed drive (earlier models used bakelite sheaves prone to cracking).



Anyone in the market around IN/OH/KY, this would be a good choice. Heck, I'd even come look at it with you!



From the pics, I'd guess the speed indicator is broken and part of the job selector dial is missing.



Ryan

 

[Dave Zuber]

A New Idea

I sold a couple of old band saws and have been shopping for a replacement vertical saw. I want it to cut plastic and aluminum mostly and hope it will cut large thin (<1/4") mild steel tubes.



I could only find a 14" Wilton with a gearbox for about $1100, covers 150 to 3000 FPM.

http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/shop/index.cfm?navPage=4&iid=137741



Searching in the Grizzly catilog came up with a nice looking 14" wood/metal saw with an inverter for about $1200, covers 150 to 3000 FPM.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0621



Grizzly has some good stuff and some not so good. Their band saws are generally good. I liked this saw but as of late Feb they still haven't seen it Stateside. The 14" wood saw this is based on looks nice.



So, A new Idea - why not just build this myself?



I drove up to Grizzly in Bellingham WA and picked up the smallest saw with a 3 ph motor. No shipping, no tax with OR id. (Small bit of TDR info: 22 mpg up with a tail wind, 17 mpg back with a head wind. )

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0514X3

This was only $1200 for a 19" saw, 3ph 3 HP motor, AND it has a belt flip that slows it down from 3000 FPM to 1700 FPM. Nice machined table, ball bearing guides, and 18 1/2 wide by 12" tall clearance for parts. I'm concerned about the roller guides when using metal, so I also got the optional ceramic guides for this ($75) which rub on the blade but also spin. I hope one of these work ok.



Next I bought a new inverter:

http://www.wolfautomation.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=19500

This is SMVector Series from AC Tech, it takes 1 ph or 3 ph input and outputs a variable frequency 3 phase out. Power cost is only 100w at full power. For my 3 HP motor it cost about $265. These were very expensive about a year ago, and are just now reasonable. This thing has very many options built into it. Just down load the pdf file and skim through it. I plan on using a remote on/off switch and a remote potentiometer to control it. But, you can just use the buttons on the front if you want.



Now to put it together. I'll be in the shop this weekend with the soldering iron. I hope this will work for my needs. At the worst I'll sell the saw to the wood workers around here and put the inverter on my mill.

 

[rbattelle]

This is SMVector Series from AC Tech, it takes 1 ph or 3 ph input and outputs a variable frequency 3 phase out. Power cost is only 100w at full power. For my 3 HP motor it cost about $265.

These new VFD units are pretty cool. And far less expensive than traditional rotary phase converters.



Nevertheless, I'm still going to convert my saw to 220/1ph.



Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Another beauty!

Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

95% finished

It's not 100% finished (still need to do something with the blade welder), but it's functional! What a great adventure!! Oo.



As purchased:

#ad




The new photo doesn't quite do justice to the change. I'm not much of a photographer.

 

[nickleinonen]

looks good. .

what's the next project...

 

[rbattelle]

looks good. .

what's the next project...

Probably a foundry.

Ryan

 

[MKinner]

check out these guys if they haven't already been mentioned...

Laguna Tools, Inc. - Thriving On Innovation (800) 234-1976

#ad

 

[p-Bar]

These new VFD units are pretty cool. And far less expensive than traditional rotary phase converters.



Nevertheless, I'm still going to convert my saw to 220/1ph.



Ryan

rotary phase converters are junk you loose HP with these plus it's a phony threephase. I have been running my whole cabinet shop off of an AC TECH , excellent piece of engineering. When inputting single phase you have to derate the VFD by 30%

 

[rbattelle]

rotary phase converters are junk you loose HP with these plus it's a phony threephase.

But how does a rotary unit lose power? How much power? What are the physics behind the loss?



Ryan

 

[p-Bar]

Draw a circle and divide into 3 . these lines are your three phase 120 degrees. Now draw another circle and split it in half this is your poly phase or single phase . Now try to add the third phase into the second circle. It just fakes out the motor plus adding about 160 vac on that third leg. It's better than a static unit which uses a relay, those you do have a loss of 30%. Hope this helps out.

P. S. nice job on the bandsaw

 

[rbattelle]

Draw a circle and divide into 3 . these lines are your three phase 120 degrees. Now draw another circle and split it in half this is your poly phase or single phase . Now try to add the third phase into the second circle. It just fakes out the motor plus adding about 160 vac on that third leg.

This explanation is a little clearer. You're right, even a rotary isn't a perfect solution. VFD units are really nice, and have come down in price over the last few years.



Ryan