Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Banjo bolt attachment for FP gauge sender

[Boondocker]

I need some advise please regarding my 2002 ETH.



The last step in my gauge project is to mount and plumb the Westach Fuel Pressure gauge sender. I have THE banjo bolts from Genos, personally retapped.



My question is, where should I put the banjo bolt? I'm leary of putting it on the VP44 and I think I understand that another choice is off the bottom of the fuel filter housing. Is this true and is it sound? I've researched alot but come up short on this critical detail.



Also, if the bottom of the fuel filter housing is an option, are there recommendations for draining it first and filling it (including the hose to the sender) afterwards?



I'd also like to entertain recommendations for mounting the sending unit.



Thanks for your suggestions.



Neil Winnemore

 

[Bigsaint]

Neil, the bottom of the fuel filter canister is my preferred location for a post filter FP gauge, others may differ in opinions. I've had my SPA sender mounted in a pressure port fitting for over a year with no regrets in that location.



If you never drained the FF, here's a tip. Cut off a small section of the drain tube from the FF and buy a 3' length of the same size clear tube from a local hardware store. Use this to replace the short line that was provided with the truck. Now, with your new long drain hose reaching the ground, place a container under the hose and lift the FF drain lever. Loosen the FF cap and when you break the seal, most of the fuel will exit through the drain tube. Remove the fuel filter and wipe the interior of the canister with a lint free cloth. Now you are ready to remove the banjo bolt at the bottom of the FF canister. Might as well go ahead and replace the FF while you are at this point, IMHO.



I didn't remove my FF canister when I upgraded to the SS line, just did it blind, as Brandon says. Reach under with the appropiate sized wrench and remove the OEM banjo bolt. Guessing that you are using a snubber line, I'd thread the line into the tapped banjo bolt, then replace same at the bottom of the canister.



Personally, I wouldn't sweat bleeding the snubber line to the gauges sender. I think the small amount of air left in the line to the sender would help to dampen the pulses from the injection pump.



I'll leave the mounting of the sender to other members, as mine is just threaded into the pressure port fitting. There have been some great installs on this board, sure another member could help ya in that area.



Once everythings tight, bump the starter several times to allow the lift pump to refill the FF canister and purge the air. 3 bumps should do it if your lift pump is strong, may need more if it's not so strong. After the 3rd bump, start cranking. I never crank for more than 10 seconds or so, then stop for a minute or two and then try again, until it catches.



If you really don't want to go through the trouble with removing the FF, you could also lift the drain lever and push in the Schrader valve at the rear of the FF canister. This will allow air to enter and the fuel to exit, in the same manner as what I described above. I prefer to change my filter whenever I drain the bowl, fuel filters are cheap enough and it's a good time to put in a new one.



Hope I helped !!!



Scott W.

 

[Boondocker]

Good instructions

Scott,



Thanks for the comprehensive instruction. As it turns out, I got some advise from another member and got the job done in just about the same manner. The not-long-enough fuel drain hose is curious. When I opened the drain valve, nothing came out. Does the Schrader valve act like a vent and is required to be open in order to drain? Better go read the manual again.



I should have changed the fuel filter though since it's due for service next weekend. Oh well, one thing at a time.



Unfortunately, my 0-16 Westach gauge only lights up. There's a thread going where another member and I have exactly the same gauge and problem. I double-checked the electrical connections and the fuel line doesn't leak, so I think the sender is bad.



Thanks again for your reply and general good advise on this forum.



Regards,

Neil

 

[CoastyAV8R]

When I first installed my gauge it didn't read either. I bled the air out of the hose by loosening it while the lift pump was on. After that, no problems. Also check the ground wires for a good ground on the sending unit.



Pat

01 ETH

 

[Bigsaint]

Neil, you are welcome and yes, the Schrader valve acts a air vent, breaking the vacuum and allowing the fuel to flow. I don't have a Westach, is it possible that the sender needs to be grounded ???



Scott W.